In 2023, Avant quietly opened its doors on the 30th floor of the Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok hotel. What used to be a beanbag lounge space has been transformed into an intimate 10-seat counter focusing on refined French-Japanese cuisine, offering amazing views of the city, particularly at the 6 p.m. sunset seating.
At the helm of the restaurant is chef Haikal Johari, hailing from Singapore, and charting a career that has been both remarkable and inspirational—leaving an imprint on Southeast Asia’s culinary scene not only for his talents in the kitchen but for his ability to overcome the toughest odds.
Photos by Jeninne Lee-St. John
Avant at Kimpton Maa-Lai. Courtesy of Avant
Courtesy of Avant
The private dining room at Avant. Courtesy of Avant
Haikal’s goal was not always to be in the kitchen, but rather on a football field, where he dreamed of success playing for the national soccer team. However, after suffering many injuries in his teens, he turned his focus to food. “A lot of my inspiration comes from the meals I had growing up. My late father loved to explore different cuisines, often taking us to try local foods, like Malay cooking. That’s where my curiosity piqued” he tells me.
With his father for inspiration, Haikal stepped into the kitchen, and enrolled in Shatec Culinary school in Singapore, where he delved into the world of gastronomy. His culinary career began in the kitchens of Raffles Singapore, where he honed his skills in French cuisine. As he grew more confident, he made a bold move to Bangkok to join the then-iconic Water Library in early 2012, launching one of the city’s most innovative multi-course tasting menus. It was there he truly pushed himself, earning the respect of both diners and fellow chefs.
However, his journey came to an abrupt halt when a motorcycle accident changed everything, paralyzing him from the neck down. “After my accident in 2015, I returned to Singapore to recover. I regained some mobility, but not in my hands, and I still need support to stand,” he says. “I consider this a big milestone in my life because I had to reinvent myself not only as a person but also as a chef. Navigating the kitchen being handicapped is challenging, but that was my new beginning.”
Chef Haikal is back in top form after a life-changing accident
After a few years in Singapore and the successful opening of Alma restaurant, Haikal was approached by Port Lee, the owner of Water Library group, with an offer to return to Bangkok to open Avant. “I thought, why not? I’ve always loved this city, the people are so kind, and I just love working with Thai people.”
Haikal took this new opportunity as a chance to rethink his approach to cooking. With a strong support system, he shifted his focus to seasonal ingredients and clarity in his dishes. “When you’re younger, you want to show all the amazing techniques like sous vide, dry ice, and nitrogen because at that time, it was like showing everyone you have the upper hand. But now, as I get older, I’ve returned to the basics and traditional methods—but with more precision. I focus on temperatures, the essentials, and a more conscientious approach in my food.”
With limited mobility, Haikal relies heavily on his brigade of chefs to do the physical cooking, “but I’m there every step of the way,” he says. “They prep, fillet fish and make sauces under my guidance. They’re like my hands, and it’s truly great.”
Photos by Jeninne Lee-St. John
Photos by Jeninne Lee-St. John
Avant isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a personal and intimate reflection of chef Haikal’s journey. As guests step inside, they’re welcomed into a space that feels familiar and warm, where every detail tells a story. His patience and mentorship resonates deeply with both chefs and those who have missed his cooking
After just eight months, Avant was recognized by the Michelin guide, receiving one star. “We feel honored and humbled, especially when achieved in such a short time. I’m so happy for the team, who have been nothing but loyal. This award is for them. And for me, I also want to achieve the dreams that I’ve not achieved yet.”
Aside from continuing to push boundaries at Avant, Haikal also has plans to expand his culinary offerings in Bangkok by going back to his roots, championing Singaporean favorites like chicken rice and other famous street eats. “Bangkok is a melting pot of cuisines, so the opportunities are endless.”
kimptonmaalaibangkok.com; tasting menu Bt,5,900 per person
Open for dinner daily, and for lunch Friday and Saturday THB 4,200 (seven courses)
Images courtesy of Avant, unless otherwise noted.
Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
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Written By
Megan Leon
Megan Leon is a Bangkok-based freelance food writer and culinary collaborator for emerging restaurants ..Read Moreand young talent. In addition to writing for various publications, she also works closely with local chefs, restaurateurs and small-scale suppliers to bring their stories to life through narratives and photography.
Beyond her editorial work, Megan has served as a consultant to restaurants as well as working closely with different companies to write marketing materials to help grow their brand image. You can find her work in BK Magazine, Robb report, Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia and in the Lonely Planet guides for Thailand and California. Read Less