In a part of London populated by third home crash pads and offices, Grato manages to have a warm, neighbourhood feel. The food is just fine, but we still end up coming back to this affable Italian restaurant in Kensington. Staff aren’t impressed by green Harrods bags and actively roll their eyes at the 26-point turn a Lamborghini driver is doing outside. And regulars are backslapped and first-timers’ wine glasses are assiduously kept topped up.
photo credit: Sinéad Cranna
It’s a big exhale of a restaurant—shirts untucked, elbows on the table, ‘wine of the month’ spillages—where the chaos of High Street Kensington feels far away. Just don’t expect to be wowed by the food, particularly a so-so risotto. Still, regulars know how to make the most of Grato: order the pumpkin ravioli (silky, sweet, the best thing here), get involved in the Lambo-bashing, and take your wine out to the terrace to soak up the charming Kensington Square setting.
Food RundownAffettati Misti
We like the generosity of this spread of salame, coppa, pancetta, and prosciutto. Really you could share it between four people if you’re all just picking. The coppa in particular—peppery and firm—is tasty.
photo credit: Sinéad Cranna
Handmade Pumpkin Ravioli
Buttery, with a good showering of parmesan, and a much-needed squeeze of lemon, this pasta dish ticks all the right sweet, comforting boxes.
photo credit: Sinéad Cranna
Risotto Primavera
Don’t get the risotto. It’s underseasoned and forgettable.
photo credit: Sinéad Cranna
Veal Scaloppine
A bit overcooked and a touch tough, this veal dish is just OK. We did like the crispy side of potatoes it came with, though.
photo credit: Sinéad Cranna
Tiramisu
We’d like the coffee flavour to be punched up, but this tiramisu is perfectly nice. We recommend taking this and a glass of wine out to the terrace to finish your meal at Grato.
photo credit: Sinéad Cranna