Such was the case with Picpoul de Pinet, a brisk white wine from coastal Languedoc which became all the rage several summers ago. It was crisp, fresh and dry. It was food-friendly, chiming especially with the seafood of its French Mediterranean origins. It was refreshingly affordable and, for a while, it was everywhere.
Picpoul has since settled into the status of a seafood-friendly stalwart, a Muscadet for the 21st century. The happy after-effect of that popularity peak is that it’s now readily found in both supermarkets and wine specialists. Today’s recommendations include examples from Aldi, Dunnes and O’Briens, but Tesco Finest’s Picpoul de Pinet (€11.50) is an excellent expression made by one of several local cooperatives, Les Costières De Pomérols.
Most French wines don’t namecheck grape varieties on their labels, let alone in their name; we’re expected to know that Chablis is made from Chardonnay, Sancerre from Sauvignon Blanc and so on. In its distinctive green Neptune bottle, Picpoul de Pinet helpfully tells us both what the grape variety is and where the wine is from. The Picpoul variety is an ancient one that has been grown locally for centuries around the Languedoc town of Pinet; today, you’ll also see it spelt as Piquepoul if grown outside the appellation of Picpoul de Pinet, which was officially formed in 2013.
Pinet sits close to both the Mediterranean coast and the nearby lagoon of Étang de Thau, where oysters and mussels are cultivated. Cooling breezes from both bodies of water help to slow the ripening of these late-ripening grapes and retain their natural acidity that makes the wines so refreshing. Mechanical harvesting of grapes in the cool of the night locks down freshness and keeps down production costs. That Mediterranean warmth still carries through, however, with some fleshy weight and an aromatic profile that arcs from zesty citrus to orchard fruits by way of white flowers and briny salinity.
Some Picpoul de Pinet winemakers are experimenting with lees ageing and maturation vessels. More typically, though, the wines are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel and consumed young, emphasising freshness of acidity and of fruit flavours. Whatever style you try, it’s a perfect match with shellfish, like those lagoon-grown oysters and mussels and other seafood.
Wines of the week
Domaine La Croix Gratiot Picpoul de Pinet 2022
Domaine La Croix Gratiot Picpoul de Pinet 2022, Languedoc, France, 12.5pc, €20.95
From certified organic chalky limestone vineyards farmed with biodynamic methods, this is textbook Picpoul. Pure, fresh and saline with zesty notes of lemon, lime and grapefruit and a perfectly crisp finish, it will elevate oysters and other seafood pairings. Look too for the gastronomic Bréchallune Picpoul, lees aged in ceramic amphora for added richness framing that purity of attack. Jus de Vine; jusdevine.ie, Woodberry Wines, wineonline.ie
Les Caves Molière Entracte Piquepoul 2024
Les Caves Molière Entracte Piquepoul 2024, Pays d’Hérault, France, 12pc, €18.95
Made outside the Picpoul de Pinet IGP, but still delivering those lip-smacking qualities of bracing acidity and saline minerality plus the juicy tang of ripe pink apples. Perfect with fresh oysters, pickled anchovies or salty sheep’s cheese. Neighbourhood Wine, O’Briens Wines; obrienswine.ie
Les Caves de Richemer
Les Caves de Richemer, Piquepoul IGP, Cotes de Thau, France, 13pc, €16.45
Made outside the Picpoul de Pinet IGP but benefiting from clay-limestone soils and cooling coastal and lagoon breezes, this is fresh, vibrant and fragrant with candied lemon peel and orchard fruit notes and a kiss of minerality. thenudewineco.ie
Specially Selected Picpoul de Pinet 2024
Specially Selected Picpoul de Pinet 2024, Languedoc, France, 12.5pc, €9.99
Plump enough in body for marinated chicken or chargrilled fish with generous aromas of lemon sherbet and grapefruit zest and a lively finish. Pair with the ripe Vallée du Paradis Rouge (€8.99) for a bargain summer barbecue duo. Aldi
Simply Better Lorgeril Les Mouettes Picpoul de Pinet 2023
Simply Better Lorgeril Les Mouettes Picpoul de Pinet 2023, Languedoc, France, 13pc, €14 (until July 15) Fleshy with zesty citrus lifting richer orchard fruit notes, from a 12th-generation winery run with organic and integrated farming methods. Try with Simply Better Dressed Irish Crab. Dunnes Stores; dunnesstoresgrocery.com