Why are wine snobs so sniffy about the gewurztraminer grape. They sneer at its obvious aromatic, rose, lychee and crystallised ginger spice. Sommeliers tick me off for ordering it as an off-dry aperitif because it will be “too sweet and smells like cheap perfume”, while novice drinkers are told they will grow out of their predilection for the grape.
Bunkum. There are so many heady, golden, seductively scented gewurztraminers on offer from the old and new worlds now, ranging from the dry yet richly fruited end of the spectrum through to sweet, that drinkers are spoilt for choice. Good gewurztraminer is remarkably food friendly; well chilled it is the perfect foil for salty smoked salmon or trout, and is one of the few white wines that can cope with spices, whether in a Thai stir fry or hot Indian curry.
For my money, the fruit and flower garden gewurztraminers from Alsace in northeastern France are the gold standard for the grape. What you get is oodles of fruit, lots of body and backbone, plus high-ish levels of alcohol, all of which explains why it’s such a useful white to serve with food. The grape’s low acidity means that even the best gewurz are better drunk young and perky, before age turns them to flab.
● More inspiration: the best burgundy wines to buy now
● The best budget supermarket wines
The big rub with gewurz is that these wines often smell honeysuckle-sweet but taste dry, and it’s confusing that so few producers give a sweetness indication on labels. One producer that does is Domaines Schlumberger, and its medium-sweet 2020 Les Princes Abbés is a mouthwatering lychee and guava-licked gem (thewinesociety.com, £17.50). Or you could spend a lot less on Sainsbury’s rose water and mango-scented off-dry 2021 Taste the Difference gewurztraminer (£10), from the excellent Turckheim co-op — perfect with a smoked salmon pasta dish.
Aromatic gewurztraminer does prefer a cooler climate, and one unsung source is Italy’s Alpine Alto Adige region, where sunny slopes and Teutonic traditions make for full-bodied, structured yet refreshing wines. Splash out on Andreas Huber’s elegant, grapey, pot pourri-scented 14 per cent 2021 Pacher Hof Gewurztraminer from Mitterberg (justerinis.com, £30.67). Despite its chilly preferences, there have been some surprisingly good gewurztraminers from Chile, South Africa and California, but the new world wine source to watch is New Zealand. The maritime influence here boosts acidity levels and makes for zingy and especially uplifting examples. Nelson, on the northern tip of the south island, is a good gewurz spot, and Waimea’s 2021 Gewurztraminer from the sheltered plains is a citrus blossom and tropical fruit charmer (Majestic, £15.99).
From left: Morandé One to One; The Best Alsace; Seifried; Domaine Bruno Sorg Grand Cru Eichberg
Gewurz stars
2022 Morandé One to One Gewurztraminer, Chile, 13.5 per cent
Majestic, £8.99
Terrific fat, buttery, crystallised ginger spice of an old vine Chilean from a cooler Casablanca spot.
2021 The Best Alsace Gewurztraminer, France, 14 per cent
Morrisons, £10
Overflowing with exotic, incense and violet spice, it’s another win from the tip-top Cave de Turckheim co-op.
2021 Seifried Gewurztraminer, Nelson, New Zealand, 12.5 per cent
Waitrose, £12.99
Glorious Austrian-influenced Kiwi gewurz, with masses of juicy, floral, stir fry-friendly Turkish delight fruit.
2020 Domaine Bruno Sorg Grand Cru Eichberg, France, 13.5 per cent
tanners-wines.co.uk, £32
Gorgeous grand cru Eichberg is a dreamy, honeysuckle and racy lemon zest mouthful — the perfect winter aperitif.
From left: Mateo Nieves Monastrell; La Cascata Passivento; Taste the Difference Château les Bouysses Cahors Malbec; Château Tour du Pas Saint-Georges
Star buys
Mateo Nieves Monastrell, Spain, 14 per cent
Asda, £8.50
Aged in French and American oak, this luscious, bold, black-fruited beast is a whizz with strong charcuterie and cheese.
2021 La Cascata Passivento, Italy, 14 per cent
Marks & Spencer, £6.65 down from £10
Another luscious red from Puglia’s negroamaro and primitivo grapes, with lashings of sweet, leafy, vanilla pod pizzazz.
2019 Taste the Difference Château les Bouysses Cahors Malbec, France, 13.5 per cent
Sainsbury’s, £11 down from £13
Cahors is malbec’s original home and this tasty, old vine, robust, ripe, curranty, blueberry wallop gets my vote.
2017 Château Tour du Pas Saint-Georges, Bordeaux, France, 14 per cent
Co-op, £15
The wizard Pascal Delbeck is the man behind this delicious, rich, velvety, gamey, herbaceous-edged St Emilion.
Which wine do you think should be added to our list? Let us know in the comments