For the last decade, Rio-born chef Raphael Rego was largely known for his Michelin-starred restaurant Oka. But with a new homebase for Oka in the residential 17th arrondissement, he’s expanding his reach with this more affordable bistro, which connects directly to his relocated fine-dining restaurant. Meat and fish are grilled over charcoal in a Josper double parrilla, visible from nearly any seat in the dining room, along with produce grown exclusively for the chef in a seven-acre vegetable garden southeast of Paris. Start with the ceviche, served with candied kumquat, ginger, and peppers, and the bacalao dumplings in a cashew sabayon dipping sauce, before continuing with the whole fish of the day and prime rib served over cassava semolina. Leave room for the chocolate and Brazilian nut soufflé tart and the chef’s spruced up Romeo & Juliet: Usually an ultra-simple street food dessert made of salty cheese and guava paste, the Fogo version incorporates mousse de petit lait, fresh guava, and lemongrass. Located in the 17th arrondissement.
Update: March 26, 2025: Now overseen by chef Guillaume Goupil, Fogo focuses on its charcoal-fired grill but without the Brazilian influences. Oka, next door, has become Episodes.
Joann Pai/Fogo