More is more in many a Paris restaurant dining room, where the walls are lined with gilded mirrors and the sky-high ceilings are stained glass works of art suspending crystal chandeliers. The only problem with these odes to Old World glamor is that most of their chefs express themselves through a no-choice prix fixe of fussy food full of ethereal foams topped with flavored dust. But you don’t need to sacrifice the tuxedoed waiters and the plush feel of a velvet seat if you want to order steak-frites or roast chicken à la carte. Classic French food is still the mot d’ordre at these spots with décor that’s a stunning frame for unpretentious plates.
