Organic wines are growing in popularity, but still account for only a fraction of production. Photo / Getty Images
Only 12% of New Zealand’s wine producers are certified organic, for part or all of their output. Of them, 80% are in the South Island, reflecting the southern regions’ drier climates for viticulture, which reduce the risk of fungal diseases.
In organic vineyards, synthetic chemical fertilisers, pesticides and herbicides are
banned. “We build healthy vines by building healthy soils and by nurturing a diverse, rich community of plants, soil, insects and micro-organisms,” says Organic Winegrowers NZ.
At the winery, most synthetic chemical additives are banned. Sulphur dioxide, used as a wine preservative since Roman times, can be found in most organic wines, but is restricted to lower levels (down by 25-33%) than the upper limits for conventional wines.
Whites
Alpha Domus The Batten Bridge Pa Triangle Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2024
★★★★★
This classy, refined wine is full of potential. Bright, light lemon/green, it is highly fragrant and mouthfilling, with lovely concentration of vibrant, ripe peach, grapefruit and biscuity oak flavours, fresh acidity and a rich, lasting finish. Complex and youthful, it’s well worth cellaring to 2028+. (13.5% alc/vol) $45
Peach, grapefruit and biscuity. Image / Supplied
Auntsfield Nature’s Path Southern Valleys Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024
★★★★★
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Delicious in its youth, this characterful wine was estate-grown and aged on its yeast lees in stainless steel tanks. Mouthfilling, it has well-ripened passionfruit and lime flavours showing excellent vibrancy, delicacy and depth, with an appetisingly crisp, dry finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $29
Black Estate Home North Canterbury Chenin Blanc 2023
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★★★★★
This distinctive, estate-grown Omihi wine was hand-harvested, fermented and matured for 10 months in large oak barrels and bottled unfined and unfiltered, with no use of the traditional preservative, sulphur dioxide. Medium-bodied, it has strong, ripe, peachy flavours, showing very good complexity, fresh, lively acidity and a persistent, dry, finely balanced finish. Full of energy, it’s well worth cellaring. (12.5% alc/vol) $55
Clos Henri Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023
★★★★½
Clos Henri, near Renwick, is owned by Famille Bourgeois, a leading producer of Sancerre in the Loire Valley. Grown in clay and stony soils, this wine was fermented and aged on its yeast lees in stainless steel tanks. Mouthfilling, crisp and dry, it has strong, ripe, tropical fruit flavours, hints of herbs and green capsicums and a dry, lingering finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $28
Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024
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★★★★★
Estate-grown in the Wairau Valley, this hand-harvested wine was fermented and lees-aged in stainless steel tanks. Mouthfilling, vigorous and tightly structured, it has concentrated, ripe passionfruit/lime flavours, good acid spine and a dry, sustained finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $30
Felton Road Central Otago Dry Riesling 2024
★★★★★
Estate-grown in schisty soils at Bannockburn, this wine was hand-harvested and tank-fermented with indigenous (rather than cultured) yeasts. Full-bodied, it has penetrating, citrusy, peachy, appley flavours and a crisp, basically dry, finely tuned finish. Deep, vigorous and not at all austere in its infancy, it should be long-lived. (13% alc/vol) $41
Greystone Waipara Valley North Canterbury Chardonnay 2023
★★★★★
Already open and expressive, this hand-harvested wine was fermented and aged for 10 months in French oak barriques. Bright yellow/green, it is fleshy, sweet-fruited and lively, with rich, peachy, slightly buttery and toasty flavours, balanced acidity and a long, dry, very harmonious finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $55
Hans Herzog Marlborough Mistral 2019
★★★★★
This powerful, distinctive white wine is a Rhône Valley-style blend of marsanne (60%), viognier (30%) and roussanne (10%). Estate-grown and hand picked on the north side of the Wairau Valley, it was fermented and matured for 18 months in a single French oak puncheon. Weighty, sweet-fruited and dry, it has notably concentrated, stonefruit and spice flavours. Complex, vigorous and lush. (14% alc/vol) $64
Huia Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024
★★★★½
Delicious in its youth, this mouthfilling, sweet-fruited wine has good intensity of ripe peach, passionfruit and lime flavours, balanced acidity and a fresh, dry finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $25
Neudorf Home Block Moutere Chardonnay 2023
★★★★★
Grown in clay soils threaded with gravel at Upper Moutere, this youthful wine was hand-harvested from mature vines and fermented and matured in French oak barriques. Bright, light yellow/green, it is mouthfilling, savoury, fresh and vigorous, with rich, citrusy, peachy flavours, an unobtrusive oak influence, good acid spine and a long, harmonious finish. Conveying a sense of unexplored potential, it’s well worth cellaring. (13.5% alc/vol) $95
Neudorf Rosie’s Block Moutere Chardonnay 2023
★★★★★
Delicious in its youth, this estate-grown Upper Moutere wine was hand-picked in Rosie’s Block, planted in 1999. Bright, light yellow/green, it is mouthfilling and rich, with concentrated stonefruit flavours, finely integrated oak and a long, crisp finish. A complex, well-structured wine, it is full of vigour and personality. (14% alc/vol) $55
Paritua Willow Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2023
★★★★½
This finely crafted wine was estate grown in the Bridge Pā Triangle and barrel-aged for a year. Full bodied, it has generous, ripe, stonefruit flavours, mealy and buttery notes adding complexity, and very good weight, depth and roundness. (13% alc/vol) $40
Rippon Lake Wanaka Central Otago Sauvignon Blanc 2023
★★★★★
This highly distinctive sauvignon blanc was hand harvested from mature vines (planted 1987-93) and fermented in an even split of tanks and seasoned French oak barrels. Weighty and tightly structured, it has ripe, tropical fruit flavours showing excellent intensity, vigour and complexity, and a sliver of sweetness balanced by firm acid spine. Savoury, crisp and penetrating. (13% alc/vol) $42
Seresin Marlborough Chardonnay Reserve 2023
★★★★½
Still very youthful, this tightly structured wine was estate grown in the Omaka Valley and handled in French oak puncheons and barriques. Full bodied, with a slightly smoky fragrance, it has vibrant, peachy, citrusy flavours showing excellent vigour and intensity, mealy, biscuity notes adding complexity, and a crisp, dry, flinty finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $55
Momo Organic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024
★★★★
From Seresin, this wine offers fresh, ripe, tropical fruit flavours. Medium bodied, with excellent depth and vigour, it is crisp and dry, offering good current drinking. (12.5% alc/vol) $23
Tapi Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024
★★★★
This very easy-drinking wine was harvested from mature vines in the Wairau Valley and 10% of the blend was fermented in old oak barriques. Mouthfilling and fleshy, it has generous, ripe, tropical fruit flavours, fresh, balanced acidity and a smooth finish. (13% alc/vol) $28
Tapi Marlborough Chardonnay 2023
★★★★
Drinking well in its youth, this wine was hand-harvested from 23-year-old vines in the Wairau Valley and fermented and lees-aged for a year in seasoned French oak barriques. Bright, light lemon/green, it is mouthfilling, with generous, ripe, stonefruit flavours, a subtle oak seasoning, considerable complexity, balanced acidity, and a creamy-smooth finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $33
Terra Sancta Old Vine Bannockburn Central Otago Field Blend 2024
★★★★
This lively, aromatic wine is a distinctive combination of gewürztraminer (54%) and riesling (41%), with a splash of pinot gris (5%). Medium bodied, it offers excellent depth of fresh, citrusy, spicy flavours. Crisp and dryish. (12.5% alc/vol) $34
Walnut Block Nutcracker Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024
★★★★½
Hand-picked at Rapaura in the Wairau Valley, this wine was fermented in a mix of stainless steel tanks (70%) and old oak barrels (30%). Fresh and full-bodied, it has strong, ripe peach, pineapple and lime flavours, good complexity and a tight, crisp finish which is dry and lingering. (13.5% alc/vol) $25
Reds
Black Estate Home North Canterbury Cabernet Franc 2023
★★★★★
Full of personality, this compelling red was estate grown at Omihi, hand-picked, matured for eight months in clay amphorae, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Deeply coloured, it is mouthfilling and vibrant, with concentrated blackcurrant, red berry and spice flavours, a hint of dark chocolate, supple tannins and a finely structured, very harmonious finish. (14% alc/vol) $55
Clos Henri Waimaunga Single Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2022
★★★★★
This classy red was grown in clay soils, hand-harvested, and matured for a year in French oak casks. Deep, bright ruby, it is a fleshy, mouthfilling, sweet-fruited wine, with concentrated cherry, plum and spice flavours, nutty, earthy, savoury notes adding impressive complexity, refined tannins and a long finish. (14.5% alc/vol) $50
Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2022
★★★★★
This highly refined red was estate-grown on the south side of the Wairau Valley, hand-picked, and matured in French oak barriques. Full, bright ruby, with a fragrant, savoury, youthful bouquet, it has layers of berry, plum, spice and nut flavours, fresh acidity and very impressive harmony, complexity and length. (13.5% alc/vol) $55
Felton Road Bannockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 2023
★★★★★
The winery’s “standard” pinot noir was blended from its four vineyard sites in the district. Deep, bright ruby, it is highly fragrant, mouthfilling and savoury with concentrated, ripe cherry, plum and spice flavours, oak complexity and a finely structured, long finish. An authoritative red, generous and harmonious, it’s arguably the winery’s best vintage yet. (13.5% alc/vol) $70
Greystone Waipara Valley North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2021
★★★★★
Currently delicious, this notably complete red was hand-harvested and barrel-aged for 17 months. Deep, bright ruby, it is enticingly fragrant, full bodied and fleshy, with very generous red berry, spice and nut flavours showing excellent ripeness and complexity, and a rich, harmonious finish. (14% alc/vol) $50
Hans Herzog Marlborough Montepulciano 2019
★★★★★
This classy, estate-grown red was hand-picked from mature vines on the north side of the Wairau Valley and matured for 21/2 years in French oak barriques. Highly refined, it is dark and still purple-flushed, with substantial body. Full of youthful vigour, it has rich, vibrant plum, red berry and spice flavours, oak complexity and good tannin backbone. (14% alc/vol) $79
Jules Taylor OTQ Limited Release Single Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2023
★★★★½
Made “On The Quiet”, this is a very age-worthy red. Deeply coloured, it is sturdy and savoury, with concentrated, ripe plum, cherry and spice flavours seasoned with nutty oak, good complexity and a firm backbone of tannin. (14% alc/vol) $47
Plum, cherry, and spice. Image / Supplied
Rippon ‘Rippon’ Mature Vine Central Otago Pinot Noir 2021
★★★★★
This Lake Wānaka wine is very classy. Deep ruby, it is invitingly perfumed and weighty, with concentrated, ripe, very savoury and complex flavours showing excellent structure and harmony. A rich, seamless wine with obvious potential, it’s well worth cellaring. (13.5% alc/vol) $97
Stonecroft Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Serine Syrah 2022
★★★★½
Designed as a serious, ageworthy red that’s also approachably young, this is a bright ruby, fresh, medium-bodied wine, with plummy, spicy, gently oaked flavours, good depth and complexity and a finely poised, smooth finish. (12.5% alc/vol) $33
Stonecroft The Original Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2020
★★★★★
This notably refined red was picked from a single row of vines planted in 1984 and matured for more than 18 months in a single new French oak barrel. Floral and supple, it is full bodied, with concentrated red berry and spice flavours, a vague hint of liquorice, gentle tannins and a lasting, savoury finish. It should flourish for a decade – maybe longer. (13% alc/vol) $150
Terra Sancta Slapjack Block Bannockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 2022
★★★★★
From the oldest vines in Bannockburn, planted in 1991, this is a beautiful red. Ruby hued, it is enticingly perfumed, notably savoury and supple, with cherry, plum, spice and nut flavours revealing impressive complexity and harmony, and a finely textured, seductively smooth finish. (13% alc/vol) $95
Villa Maria Attorney Marlborough Pinot Noir 2021
★★★★★
Villa Maria’s “icon” pinot noir was hand-picked from vines planted in 2002 on a north-facing block with clay soils in the Southern Valleys. Deep, bright ruby, with a fragrant, very savoury bouquet, it is mouthfilling and energetic, with rich cherry, plum, spice and nut flavours, layered and finely textured, and good tannin backbone. A terrific wine, it is likely to be long-lived. (14% alc/vol) $120
Walnut Block Nutcracker Marlborough Pinot Noir 2023
★★★★½
This youthful, ruby-hued red was hand-harvested, aged for 17 months in French oak barriques, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Floral, savoury and supple, it has strong, ripe fruit flavours and considerable complexity. An elegant, very harmonious red, it should be at its best 2026+. (13% alc/vol) $45
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