Cleveland.com reporters Alex Darus and Paris Wolfe stop by Edwins in Cleveland Heights as part of their happy hour project.Alex Darus
CLEVELAND HEIGHTS, Ohio — Edwins has a reputation of being one of Greater Cleveland’s best fine-dining restaurants, but its recent move to the former Nighttown space in Cleveland Heights has introduced a bistro menu with a happy hour.
Edwins is more than just a restaurant. Founder/chef Brandon Chrostowski opened the leadership and restaurant institute in 2013, with a focus on training and hiring recently incarcerated individuals in all facets of fine dining. Chrostowski has expanded the mission to include a life-skills center, bakery and butcher shop.
The new Edwins space keeps the European charm while honoring the history of Nighttown. European doesn’t mean stuffy — Edwins has segregated spaces for diners to have different experiences. An intimate brasserie, bright patio, fine-dining room and temperature-controlled cigar lounge are just a few of the many spaces. At the indoor and outdoor bar during happy hour, it feels like a bustling third place in France where everyone hangs out in the late afternoon.
Chrostowski opted to introduce happy hour to the Edwins roster with the move to Cleveland Heights. While he didn’t previously offer it at the Shaker Square location, he said that neighborhood folks came to rely on Nighttown’s happy hour.
“Why not offer what someone’s used to?” he said.
However, he believes that at Edwins, every hour can be “happy” thanks to its competitive pricing menu. Chrostowski prioritizes making the menu prices at both Edwins and The Friars’ Table downtown “ultra-aggressive.”
“Our check average right now is $42,” he explained. “That’s how it should be.”
The secret? Low cost margins, high volume and taking time to craft a menu. Chrostowski thinks it’s important to offer more than just prime cuts of meat and expensive ingredients. The most expensive items on the Brasserie menu are the New York strip steak frites for $33. Its classic well cocktails are $8 apiece.
“We have a family of four kids, a fifth on the way,” Chrostowski said. “We don’t really go out to eat but if we were to, we could maybe afford something on this end.”
Edwins has found a way to offer competitive pricing while meeting its margins, which Chrostowski says is a success. Happy hour here is an addition, not required for folks to enjoy a reasonably priced meal at a nice restaurant. It’s helped Edwins to continue to cast its wide net without diluting the brand. It also introduces them welcome a new segment of diners, like teachers or hospital workers in the area looking for after-work plans.
“If you offer happy hour and people like it, keep it. If they don’t leave it,” Chrostowski added.
Outdoor patio at Edwins in Cleveland Heights.Alex Darus
We visited Edwins on an early Tuesday afternoon and it didn’t take time for the bar area to fill up with diners looking for a deal. The shady patio also offers the happy hour menu, but it was unfortunately closed for a private party during our visit. However, it’s a must during the warm season when it’s open.
We started off with happy hour cocktails — a margarita and a daiquiri — both for $7 alongside an old fashioned. Other drink deals include house red and white wine and an amuse-bouche shot, both $6. Happy hour also features $4 beer specials.
Edwins is a hub for oyster enthusiasts. The team imports 14-16 different varieties of oysters every week, both East and West Coast species. During happy hour, guests can try any of the offerings for $2 apiece, including mignonette. It creates a choose-your-own-adventure dish, allowing diners to sample new varieties alongside their tried-and-true favorites.
For two oyster enthusiasts, this happy hour special was a dream. We relished in the briny, salty flavor of East Coast oysters while comparing them with delicate and sweet West Coast varieties. At this point, we were urged by Chrostowski to pair wines like white Burgundy and Sancerre with our oysters, and who are we to question the expert?
Oyster bar at Edwins in Cleveland Heights.Alex Darus
Following the oyster feast, we tried a bit of all of Edwins happy hour small plates. Bites like five Parisian wings and pomme frites with garlic aioli make for a substantial snack for $5 apiece. For $8 apiece, dishes like mussels and bread, chopped salad and duck confit poutine took it up a notch.
You might’ve thought we’d be over shellfish after our oyster feast, but the mussels in a deeply aromatic broth stood their own. Thankfully, Edwins wasn’t skimpy on the sides of bread (served with blue cheese butter — a welcomed touch) to dunk into that savory broth.
The duck confit poutine is as rich and indulgent as it sounds like it’d be. Perfectly crispy fries loaded with a protein-rich duck gravy are what comfort food dreams are made of.
A sleeper hit was the chopped salad. Chopped salads are perfect for happy hour because they take out all of the labor — every ingredient is already bite-sized. Edwins sneaks ingredients like red onion, hard-boiled egg and more into this perfectly dressed salad, making it a great side dish for more indulgent plates.
While we definitely didn’t go home hungry, we had to try Chrostowski’s take on an “Île flottante” dessert. Translating to “floating island” in English, the plate consists of soft vanilla meringue swimming in crème anglaise. It’s undoubtedly indulgent while remaining delicate.
From the attention to detail to affordable prices to its overall mission, there are literally countless reasons to visit Edwins. Happy hour is a great way to (literally) get your foot in the door, but it definitely won’t take long for you to want to come back.
Île flottante dessert from Edwins in Cleveland Heights.Alex Darus
Edwins, 12383 Cedar Road, Cleveland Heights
Happy Hour: 4 to 6 p.m., Monday through Friday
Vibe: Upscale, cozy
Food: French
Beverages: Beer, wine and cocktails
Budget: $20-$40
This year it costs more to dine out. Despite tight budgets, most people – especially extroverts like reporters Paris Wolfe and Alex Darus — need to get out. And, like everyone we need to support local restaurants to keep them in business. Sometimes that may be as simple as a Happy Hour dinner. So, we launched “The Happy Hour Project.” Paris and Alex will regularly visit independent restaurants in Northeast Ohio for happy hour and report back on the vibe, food and cocktails and how they’ll impact your budget.
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