Have you had Zozzona sauce on your pasta yet? Get ready: This is the star of the menu at Wantagh’s new Cibo Pasta Bar on Merrick Road.
“It’s a tribute to Rome,” said Cibo owner Anthony Brew, who previously ran the now-shuttered Anthony’s Kitchen and Cocktails in Bellmore. Although Brew said that restaurant “did well,” it ultimately “fell into the same old category of red sauce Italian on Merrick Road, and I really wanted to do something that was different and stood out.”
Brew, who started his restaurant career at the ripe age of 16 at Matteo’s in Howard Beach, Queens, saw a void in the South Shore restaurant scene. “There were no places to go to hang out, have a cocktail, have great Italian food and be in a sexy environment,” he said. “A place with no red sauce, no chicken Parm, no Sinatra playing. A spot with a real vibe.”
Cibo Pasta Bar in Wantagh. Credit: Newsday/Marie Elena Martinez
Enter Cibo (pronounced “chee-bo”), which takes inspiration from A Pasta Bar in Manhattan’s SoHo neighborhood. Its dark walls, deep green velvet chairs, gold accents (including toilets!) and lounge soundtrack create an upscale and elegant feel. There’s even valet parking. And while this definitely isn’t your Nonna’s pasta bar, the food tastes as if Nonna may be tucked away in the back cooking it. “I’ve seen a few other spots doing pasta bars in a more casual way, and that’s cool,” Brew said. “But my vision was a high-end atmosphere with the pasta concept.”
Although the menu is anchored by the pasta bar, it rounds itself out with a nice selection of appetizers and entrees. To start, there’s bone marrow alongside a light chimichurri ($21), braised short rib over polenta ($21), and soft, fried calamari drizzled with Gorgonzola cream ($25) — initially confusing, ultimately delicious. Cooler options include burrata with black truffle and honey ($25), a shellfish plate of shrimp, crab and lobster ($50), plus salads from shaved Caesar ($16) to a summer version with watermelon, goat cheese, candied walnuts and arugula ($21).
The pasta bar offers 12 sauces, ranging from $22 to $32, from Bolognese to porcini-Cognac, cacio e pepe to pesto and everything in between. Six fresh pastas made daily include trofie, spaghetti and pappardelle, plus dry-cut options like ziti. Pick a sauce, pick a pasta, indulge. If you’re still hungry, entrees include rosemary-and-garlic-infused lamb chops ($50) and a filet with white peppercorn sauce ($56), plus the fish of the day.
About that tribute to Rome — Brew’s Zozzona sauce ($24) takes all of Rome’s most famous sauces — carbonara, Amatriciana and cacio e pepe — and combines them. “You get the tomato, basil, onion and guanciale from the Amatriciana; add two whipped eggs and nice handful of pecorino from the carbonara, some fresh pasta water and fresh black pepper for the pepe,” Brew explained.
In the three weeks since opening, Brew said he has sold “500 dishes of Zozzona pasta.” Understandably; it’s a winner.
Cibo Pasta Bar, 3037 Merrick Rd., Wantagh; 516-804-8266, cibopastabar.com; Open Monday through Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m., closed Sunday.
A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.