French fries tossed in duck fat at Chardon.
Kirk Sides/Houston Chronicle
It’s been two months on the job for me as the Chronicle’s new restaurant critic, and the number of memorable dishes keep growing as I’ve checked off more establishments from my list.
Maybe it’s because we’re deep into spring and chefs are using ingredients for lighter dishes (like Shawn Gawle’s spectacular carrot cavatelli). Or maybe it’s the desserts that have satiated my sweet tooth (thanks to the shaved ice at Kira). Between meals I’ve eaten for formal reviews and checking out newer spots, I’m very happy to share these favorites from April. Keep sending me your recommendations.
Ceviche at Alora.
Bao Ong / Houston Chronicle
Of all the different crossovers in cuisines you can find in Houston — Mediterranean barbecue, Cajun-inspired burritos, Creole-Italian most recently — the mix of Peruvian and Vietnamese wasn’t one I saw coming. I first tasted this Montrose restaurant’s “Peruviet” ceviche, which usually calls for red snapper, during a pop-up preview last fall. It’s even better now. The fish bobs in a refreshing pool of a citrus-based marinade accented with zippy lime juice, crunchy bits of cancha (toasted kernels of corn) and creamy sweet potatoes. It’s a balanced-yet-invigorating dish to kick off a meal where you’ll find other intriguing mashups like a riff on Peruvian lomo saltado and Vietnamese bo luc lac. 2502 Dunlavy
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Carrot cavatelli from Camaraderie.
Bao Ong / Houston Chronicle
I haven’t had a chance to try the prix-fixe menu (only available in the main dining room) at this buzzy Heights restaurant, but there’s already a dish that will lure me back to Camaraderie’s lounge: the carrot cavatelli. It’s a stunning orange that simply radiates the moment it lands on your table. The little nubs of pasta show off their vivid color from carrot juice. On top you find slivers of poached carrots, English peas, dollops of pesto made from the carrot tops and finally, a shower of mimolette, the aged French cheese known for its orange hue with a nutty and caramel-like flavor. If there’s a dish that screams springtime, this is it. 608 W. 11th
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French fries tossed in duck fat at Chardon.
Kirk Sides/Houston Chronicle
Before reporting a story on how controversial seeds oils have become lately, I had a chance to try the fries at this new French bistro in the Thompson Hotel. They’re fried in beef tallow before chef E.J. Miller tosses them in duck fat. Golden, crisp and rich from the duck fat, they’re hands down the best order of fries I’ve tasted in recent memory. I’m still not sure what I think of the seed oil debate, but I do know these are fries I’m recommending to everyone. 1711 Allen Parkway
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Banh xeo at Com Ga Houston
Banh xeo, a traditional Vietnamese crepe, at Com Ga Houston.
Bao Ong / Houston Chronicle
This Asiatown favorite doesn’t check off every box I seek in an texbook-perfect banh xeo, the savory Vietnamese crepe often filled with shrimp and pork belly. The exterior could be a tad crispier. There could be larger pieces of protein. But the sheer size, which easily feeds a few people for only about $16, is what makes it so fun to share. It arrives hot off the stovetop with the bean sprouts still steaming. The restaurant is also generous with its lettuce and herbs so you’ll have no problem finishing up an order. 11403 Bellaire, Asiatown
A plate of barbecue and sies from CorkScrew BBQ.
Bao Ong / Houston Chronicle
The Michelin Guide’s Texas debut generated a lot of debate for all the barbecue joints the French tire company ended up recognizing. Between the brisket and peach cobbler that bookended my first meal at CorkScrew, I’d agree with Michelin’s awards on this smoked turkey breast alone. It was by far the best cut of all the meats my out-of-town friends and I enjoyed. Moist, perfectly seasoned and a hint of that smoke made this one of the top barbecue spots in the state no matter who’s doling out the accolades. 26608 Keith, Spring
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Deviled crabs at Credence
Deviled crabs at Credence.
Bao Ong / Houston Chronicle
These deviled crabs come on the half shell, two pre order for $28. But the smoky tomato butter draped atop the tender crab meat is so good you’d want to place another order. Somehow this classic Southern dish feels old-school yet now. Credence builds its menu on a Texas theme, and I can’t think of dish that would be a better example of what Levi Goode’s restaurant is striving for: Gulf seafood, comfort and nostalgia is all wrapped up in one. 9757 Katy Freeway, Memorial
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Papaya salad at Ema.
Bao Ong / Houston Chronicle
The pastry selection from chef Stephanie Velasquez is one of the best in town. Each time I visit it feels like I’m confronted with a Sophie’s Choice-like decision between ordering one of the downy Berlinesas, a doughnut filled with horchata cream, or one of her other creative Mexican pastries. But recently I tried the papaya salad for the first time and it’s going to be difficult not to order it again. At first glance, it’s a straightforward dish: sweet papaya and orange segments resting on a bed of plain yogurt with a smattering of granola. But it’s an agave-lime dressing that brings it to life. You feel virtuous for being healthy-ish, but there’s no shortage of flavor in a dish that makes you feel like you’re having breakfast at some tropical getaway. 5307 N. Main
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Beef stew pot at Hong Kong Food Street in Katy on Monday, April 14, 2025.
Elizabeth Conley/Houston Chronicle
It took me several visits to this new Katy restaurant, which originally built up a following in Asiatown for nearly two decades, to figure out that it excelled at classic Cantonese fare. Hong Kong Food Street’s regulars seem to agree. During one of my meals, owner Johnny Cheung mentioned that customers asked him to bring back a braised beef brisket dish. It arrives in a stone spot with a votive that keeps the stew the perfect temperature. The tender brisket is supported by warming spices like ginger and star anise. I kept spooning one serving after another over a bowl of rice. 33015 Colonial Parkway, Katy
Almond Joy kakigori at Kira
Almond Joy-inspired kakigori at Kira.
Bao Ong / Houston Chronicle
The team behind Kira is well known for its expertise with sushi given its success with omakase hit Neo. You’ll of course have to order a few hand rolls and even one of the donburis, a bowl of rice topped with some of the freshest seafood in town or even slices of wagyu. But you can’t leave without tasting the kakigori. A recent flavor for the shaved ice dessert riffs on Almond Joy, a candy I hadn’t eaten in years. It tasted exactly like what I remember from the crossing of flavors between chocolate and coconut — except the base is made from imported Japanese that’s as fine as snowflakes. It’s one fancy Almond Joy but worth it. 2800 Kirby
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Strawberry roll at La Crumb
A strawberry roll from the La Crumb pop-up in Houston.
Bao Ong / Houston Chronicle
Louie Emiliani has been throwing pop-ups across Houston since closing her and her brother’s Italian restaurant in the East End several years ago. I’m still awaiting their pizza comeback, but for now, Emliani’s lovely desserts are holding me over. I recently made it to Un Caffe in Midtown where a seemingly humble strawberry roll was just one of many favorites. Maybe it was the light pink hue of the frosting or the pillowy texture of the roll itself, but like all her desserts, including three different flavors of tiramisu, you get a sense of the chef’s joy and penchant for having fun.