Yes, opening another Italian restaurant in that sweet spot between Stoke Newington and Clerkenwell might sound bold – especially given the likes of Trullo nearby – but bold they most certainly have gone. It’s a menu that doesn’t whisper: think fiori di zucca stuffed with burrata and anchovy, supersized antipasti, heavy‑hitting pastas, secondi like lamb cutlets and slow‑roasted porchetta, and weekend dolci like maritozzi and crostata del giorno.
Given Brutto’s runaway success in Farringdon – with its deliciously unpolished, come-as-you-are dishes (‘brutto’ meaning ‘ugly’ yet disarmingly good) – it’s clear London has developed a taste for bold, unapologetic Italian comfort food over restrained elegance. And with small-plate restaurants aplenty in this area, the addition will surely be welcome.
So yes, bold. But with a cinematic face behind the name, a local‑hero restaurateur steering design, and food that actually delivers the goods, Lupa feels less like risky business and more like destined to become a Highbury classic. But don’t take my word for it…