It’s been 40 years since the New Zealand sauvignon blanc Cloudy Bay hit the UK, seducing us with its rapier-like acidity, powerful flavours and spring-garden aromas. It became such a new-wave classic that for many, sauvignon blanc means New Zealand. But it’s easy to forget that just over the Channel, on the flinty hillsides of the upper Loire Valley, the grape variety is thriving in its spiritual home, in the villages of Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire.
Here the Loire’s most famous couple, sancerre and pouilly-fumé, are the white wines of scintillating purity that have been produced using sauvignon blanc grapes since the end of the 19th century. Once staples of Parisian bistros, these wines are now stocked in restaurants worldwide, as generations of thirsty gastronomes fell for their crisp, dry charms. These are whites with a saline, stony acidity and aromas of elderflower, citrus, nettle and occasionally a smoky gunflint character.
They come into their own at this time of year, especially when served with summery food — late-season asparagus, tomatoey salads, grilled river fish with minty new potatoes, sushi. They are also a great foil to the Loire’s soft white cheeses. These are fine wines, made in small quantities, but nevertheless our high streets are full of brilliant examples, such as Waitrose’s lively and delicate 2024 Le Manoir Sancerre from Alphonse Mellot (£27), or Tesco’s crisp and lemony 2023 Sancerre Le Montarlet, also produced by Mellot (£24.50).
Meanwhile Yapp Brothers’ 2023 Les Perriers sancerre from Domaine André Vatan is a classic with its lean citrussy edge (£22.50). Look out for producers such as Lucien Crochet, François Cotat and Hubert Brochard. These wines should generally be enjoyed young, within one or two years after they have been bottled. Here are six more Loire Valley wines to try.
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2024 Domaine Seguin Pouilly-Fumé (13%)
Morrisons, £16
Made by Philippe Seguin, this is a dry, flinty sauvignon with plenty of vibrant acidity, white fruit and a long, dry finish.
2023 Extra Special Pouilly-Fumé (13%)
Asda, £15.68
This whistle-clean, steely sauvignon is well balanced, with slight citrus notes. Excellent with fish.
2023 Taste the Difference Pouilly-Fumé (13%)
Sainsbury’s, £17.50
Here’s a satisfying, grown-up sauvignon that’s crisp and elegant, with a touch of lime and tropical fruit.
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2023 The Society’s Exhibition Pouilly-Fumé (13.5%)
The Wine Society, £17.50
This dry sauvignon has an impressive depth and length of flavour. Pair with shellfish and white meats.
2023 Jean Vincent Pouilly-Fumé (12.5%)
Majestic, £20
There is a whisper of citrus on the nose here that gives way to a soft, gentle finish with a trace of spice and gooseberry.
2023 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes & Caillottes Sancerre (12.5%)
Tanners, £24
Perfect with smoked salmon, this aromatic sancerre is delicate and pure, with uplifting acidity.
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Bargain of the week
2023 Wanderwyld Primitivo
North Macedonia (13%)
Waitrose, £7 (down from £9.25)
A full-throttle, velvety red with dark fruit and plenty of spice and oak.