Photo by Kait Murray
Whenever I tell someone new that I can’t have tomato sauce, the conversation almost always plays out as follows.
“So, no pizza or pasta? Wow, that’s awful. I am so sorry.”
The sentiment is typically delivered with as much sincerity — and pity — as if my dog had just died.
“Well, my cousin can’t have chocolate,” I’ll quip back. “So it could be worse.”
Yet for many born-and-bred Rhode Islanders, nothing could be worse. In fact, upon revealing that my body’s reaction to ingesting red sauce is akin to extreme food poisoning, a first date once joked that my allergy was a “red flag.”
No follow up plans were ever made, so it’s safe to say they weren’t joking.
You might think that seems a tad dramatic, and normally I would be quick to agree — but I also have to admit they aren’t totally off base.
Have you ever considered how often home-cooked-meal invitations around here (Google says Rhode Island’s Italian population is nearly 20 percent) involve crowd-pleasers like lasagna or spaghetti and meatballs? Or how many kids serve pizza strips (read: garlic bread slathered in a thick layer of marinara) at their birthday parties? Or the number of game day get-togethers and summer soirees that revolve around barbecue? Locals literally call red sauce “gravy” because we can’t get enough on everything from pastas to proteins.
I was conditioned from a young age to always come to gatherings equipped with a PB&J or risk going home hungry. But, as you can imagine, BYO-sandwiches are frowned upon at most dining establishments. Over the years, I avoided osterias and trattorias the way most vegans steer clear of burger joints.
Then another thing I didn’t have on my bingo card happened: As I got older, white pizzas and other marinara alternatives started to catch on. So much so that many of my friends not only embraced, but encouraged, the splitting of a chicken bacon ranch-style pizza over a classic cheese. To this day, I need to arrive promptly to the office pizza party for fear I will forfeit all the red-sauceless-slices to my coworkers.
Still, by the time I moved to Federal Hill last year, many were surprised to learn that my answer to “Where’s your favorite place to eat on the Hill?” was to admit I hadn’t been to any of the heavyweights. (I know, sacrilege for a Rhode Islander.) But then one night a friend cocked their head to the side and said, “You know Italian restaurants serve other things, right?”
And so began my foodie tour, dietary restriction be damned. I’ve had some good eats over the last few months, and I thought there may be others who could also benefit from my findings. So, whether you suffer from a physical limitation — acid reflux? — or a nonsensical allergy like mine (hi, please be my friend?), or just don’t like red sauce (don’t worry, I won’t tell Nonna), here’s a quick guide to avoiding the stuff — including pomodoro, pink vodka and “gravy” varieties — on the Hill.
Costantino’s Venda Bar & Ristorante
First impression: I can see the orange umbrellas from my parking spot and have long wanted to join the many diners who pack the patio, but I was pleasantly surprised to find the interior is just as welcoming with its classy decor and art.
Personal picks: The antipasto alla Costantino is a great place to start. The savory mix of stuffed cherry peppers, soppressata, provolone and more hit all my cravings at once and almost had me too full for the entree, but once the cavatelli with broccoli rabe and Italian sausage hit the table, my appetite returned with a vengeance. It was a hearty helping so I took some home, and next-day-me was happy for the lavish lunch. I also need to shout out the wine list and desserts: It’s not every day I get to munch on a blueberry pizza or am tempted to purchase a bottle of chianti straight from the restaurant bar.
Details: 265 Atwells Ave., Providence, 528-1100, costantinosristorante.com
Cassarino’s Restaurant
First impression: This cozy spot is very approachable, and the place I would take visiting friends for a casual dinner.
Personal picks: Though I was lured by the arancini (the marinara was on the side!), a last-minute and fortuitous switcheroo introduced me to my new favorite appetizer: mushroom caps stuffed with Ritz cracker and vegetable stuffing. I could have mangia-ed all night long. I’m glad I didn’t, though, because the ensuing creamy fettuccine carbonara was just what I needed to satisfy my pasta and protein quota.
Details: 177 Atwells Ave., Providence, 751-3333, cassarinosri.com
Camille’s Restaurant
First impression: Though it’s the only eatery here without an Atwells address, this is where I’d choose to hide out under moody lighting and private-yet-spacious booths encircled by thick, heavy curtains.
Personal picks: I couldn’t resist the squash blossom special — crispy fried squash with cheese and prosciutto. Next, I dug into the buttery shrimp scampi while my friend enjoyed the red snapper special. I stole a few bites and absolutely recommend holding off on menu decisions until after your waiter has rattled off the daily specials.
Details: 71 Bradford St., Providence, 751-4812, camillesonthehill.com
Massimo
First impression: The most modern of the bunch, this is also where fine dining meets affordable. I see why it gets so many Best of Rhode Island nods.
Personal picks: My friend and I decided to take advantage of the Monday Massimo menu, meaning we each received three pre-fixe courses plus a glass of the house red for a cool $36 per person. Though there were multiple foolproof possibilities listed, I accidentally ordered the Tuscan soup not realizing the base was tomato. This is why we always alert our servers to our allergies, people! They were lovely and swapped it out for a spinach salad topped with goat cheese and walnuts, and honestly, I wish I could start most meals this way. The tangy chicken picatta was delish, and the rich wine and tiramisu made me feel like I still got my Italian fill.
Details: 134 Atwells Ave., Providence, 273-0650, massimori.com
Honorable Mentions
Angelo’s Civita Farnese
This century-old icon allows you to make your own pasta-bilities, meaning I’d get the chance to enjoy my beloved gnocchi with homemade pesto. They also have a fair number of enticing mainstays like Juliet’s chicken broccoli alfredo. 14 Atwells Ave., Providence, 621-8171, angelosri.com
Pane e Vino
Massimo, Pane e Vino’s sister restaurant, got my attention this time around, but still I was impressed by the number of sauce-less and gluten-free options for my fellow sensitive eaters. 365 Atwells Ave., Providence, 223-2230, panevino.net
Andino’s Italian Restaurant
During my pre-tour research, I noticed that many of the dishes could be made with the diner’s choice of seasoned marinara or garlic butter white wine sauce. Another menu standout was the Florentine ravioli. 171 Atwells Ave., 453-3164, andinosprovidence.com
Sicilia’s Pizzeria
Now that I’m in the neighborhood, I need a trusty pizza place for nights I don’t feel like cooking or venturing out. Between its Buffalo chicken, white triple cheese and steak bomb thin-crust options, Sicilia’s might just take the cake. 181 Atwells Ave., Providence, 273-9222, siciliasonline.com