The drinks: The cocktail menu is laced with pop culture references, and we were especially tickled by the “Sopranos”-themed ones. Beyond that, drinks mirror the kitchen’s attention to detail. A mozzarella-washed vodka martini (The Telltale Moozadell, $15) offers a clean, savory nod to Italian ingredients, while a nonalcoholic take on an Aperol spritz (The Pine Barrens, $11) is well balanced and convincing. A choose-your-own spritz adventure can mix and match amaro and wines for more than four dozen versions of the drink of the season.
The vibe: Designed by Collage Architects of Minneapolis, the dining room is airy and modern, with soft curves, warm lights and the theatrics of a glass-walled pasta room visible from the bar (though it was dormant on the night we dined). A cedar-scented patio out front faces the soundstage-like main street of City Walk; its window boxes and twinkle lights add some charm. Service is another highlight. Staffers know the menu intimately, and will explain preparations with enthusiasm. The whole experience can feel special occasion-worthy, or equally casual for a neighborhood night out. There’s never been a better time to dine in the suburbs.
In the neighborhood: Woodbury’s strip malls aren’t what they used to be. National chains are still abundant, but in the past few years, several local businesses have found a home here, including eastern suburban branches of Bebe Zito (9000 Hudson Road) and Yum (8340 City Centre Drive).
Dining and Cooking