Photographs by Nicholas JR White
Island life often necessitates, and thrives on, collaboration and improvisation in all manner of things. And when it comes to fun and inventive food offerings, the Isle of Arran, off the west coast of Scotland, has nailed it.
Success is a tough ask for purveyors of outstanding fare when they’ve had to deal with the cumulative nightmares of the Covid lockdowns, a very uncertain ferry service and a shortage of seasonal staff. But culinary types have proved to be uber-resilient, and it’s the way Arran rolls. Consider the lobster, spring and morning rolls at the wonderful Wooleys bakery in Arran’s main town Brodick, which has been open since the middle of the 19th century – a fine testament to the community’s tenacity.
‘Happily on the firm side’: pan-seared coley in lemon, white wine and cream sauce
A much more recent addition to Arran’s foodie offering is the tiny, bohemian restaurant The French Fox, owned by Guy Gautier and Emma-Jane Fox (pictured, top). The couple arrived on the island in February 2020, following an earlier scoping visit to see friends.
Guy, who is half-French, had been working at Bistro Gautier in Harpenden in Hertfordshire, which his late father had opened, but after four and a half years he and Emma began to seek a different way of life, and the island of Arran, an hour from the Scottish mainland, had just the kind of community they were looking for.
It was tough timing. Through Covid they cooked and served from Pierre, their Peugeot J7 van, which they parked in various spots. But after a couple of years, Pierre had had enough, and the pair opened a little BYOB restaurant in the middle of a row of tiny wooden buildings by a small stream in Brodick, with a beautiful view straight up to Goatfell.
‘Wonderfully peppery’: bœuf bourguignon
Here, there are simple bistro tables and chairs both inside and out (where there’s an awning to shelter from the odd shower). The restaurant takes no bookings and no pre-orders, the daily menu appears on Instagram and Facebook, and everything is served in biodegradable cardboard boxes, whether you’re dining in or at home.
When my husband, Alan, and I visited recently, we began with silky smooth chicken liver parfait, made with, I suspect, more than a teaspoon of brandy and port, and served alongside a suitably tart shallot compote, and bread from an island bakery, Blackwater Bakehouse.
To follow, I plumped for the pan-seared fillet of coley in lemon, white wine and cream sauce, which complemented rather than drowned the fish, and the coley itself was happily on the firm side. Served with this were al dente mangetout and the now ubiquitous tenderstem broccoli, sprinkled with a fragrant dill oil.
‘An apt reminder that chicken can be a respectable main’: poulet au citron
Alan chose the classic bœuf bourguignon. As a Scottish man, his instinctive habit is always to reach for the salt cellar, but the soft beef was so well-seasoned, indeed wonderfully peppery, that there was no need, and the not-too-creamy dauphinoise potatoes soaked up the rich sauce, in which still firm local mushrooms bobbed about.
The poulet au citron – well-cooked braised chicken thighs – was another highlight, again in a white wine and lemon sauce, well paired with courgette and a rich pomme pureé. It was substantial without being heavy, and an apt reminder that chicken can be a respectable main, even if sometimes overlooked in haute cuisine. My only desire would be a greater variety of sauces across the menu, to provide a more diverse palate.
For pudding, practically a staple at the French Fox (alongside the croques) is the crowd-pleasing crème brûlée, with its well-fired caramel top that splinters in your mouth, but for me it had to be the profiteroles, not the kind piled high at weddings, but ones that are just as light and twice the size. Light choux buns dipped in Callebaut dark chocolate – and here’s the kicker – you can settle for the delicious vanilla Chantilly crème variety or, as I did, indulge in the addition of raspberry to the crème.
‘A well-fired caramel top that splinters in your mouth’: crème brûlée
This is an island of pop-up restaurants, food festivals, supper clubs, sharing spaces, guest chefs, staff-sharing, farmers’ markets and bake sales, where the culinary community appears to be very generous towards each other. When Guy and Emma arrived on Arran they were supported by the talented chef Gordon Decaesteker and his wife Kirsty, a native of Arran, and the owners of Mara Fish Bar & Deli 15 minutes along the coast at Corrie, who invited the couple to do some pop-ups.
When they opened Mara seven years ago, Gordon and Kirsty were trailblazers for a relaxed, chic vibe, where the catch, and a commitment to sustainability, dictates the exceptional and constantly creative menu, not least wonderful dishes with razor clams and lobster rolls, and plates such as mussels with sauerkraut, Arran mustard, white wine and bacon.
The design of the interior and also the exterior, with its blue and white striped awning, reminds me of the coast of Maine. (And I’m sure diners who frequent fish shacks in Maine would exclaim how alike it is to Mara on Arran.)
‘Light choux buns dipped in Callebaut dark chocolate’: profiteroles
My most recent little piece of heaven there was a Cajun-spiced hake burger with coriander relish and smoked paprika slaw. The bun was a light-as-air brioche. My companion, who delights in Mara’s fusion fish offerings, selected bao buns, with southern fried coley and a lovely tangy coleslaw.
Arran is altogether one of the most exciting places to exercise your tastebuds, with the freshest of produce, served with little pretension. My advice for when you visit is to carry with you an insulated bag, as you are sure to be tempted by a morsel or two to take back to your tent/campervan/holiday home – a feast in a cardboard box.
The French Fox, 1 Auchrannie Road, Brodick, Isle of Arran KA27 8BZ (thefrenchfox.godaddysites.com). Starters from £9, mains from £17.50, desserts from £5.50. Bring your own wine
Dining and Cooking