The Ritz () – London, England

It's hard to come by a unanimous, positive opinion of a restaurant…anywhere, really. Such is taste. And that goes doubly for London, no doubt due to sheer variety. For Londoners and tourists alike, for every visit extolling the virtues of the likes of CORE by Clare Smyth, Hélène Darroze at the Connaught, or The Clove Club, there is someone that didn't get the service they wanted, or thought the flavours were muted, or found the portions so small that they had to stop for a Maccies on the way home. These may be strawmen, for I'm not about to dig out actual complaints against these restaurants; and though they may not be as trivial as these, they surely do exist. Yet out of all London restaurants, I'd wager that none is as universally loved/respected as The Ritz.

For nine long years, The Ritz (turn right out of Green Park station and hallo, it's right there) has held a solitary Michelin star. That changed earlier this year, when – finally! – Executive Chef John Williams MBE got his dues, and The Ritz was awarded a second star.

To get to the restaurant, you have to go right to the end of the hotel, down the long corridor that passes the Ravioli Bar, the Palm Court (where afternoon tea is served), and the rest of the riff raff (I jest. They are, I suppose, technically human). Arrive past 7.30pm, and the gentle melodies emanating from the grand piano will greet you on entry. And if you arrive before and forget that the behemoth is parked out front, you'll be mildly surprised when Moon River starts up.

For this visit, I opted for the Epicurean menu, which consists of seven slated courses, in addition to amuse-bouches, petits fours, and bread. The worst thing about this menu is that it doesn't include the Chocolate Soufflé, which is one of the finest desserts in London, and only available on the à la carte menu. Alas, the sacrifices we make.

The current tasting menu is exquisite. The low points were few, those being that the sourdough was slightly (but noticeably) raw in the centre, and that I felt the tomato course would have been better served cold rather than lukewarm, as an opening course that stimulates the taste buds. The latter being a preference rather than a black mark, everything else was a delight to look at and a joy to eat. Saucing, as always, was exceptional, but what I particularly love is the refinement and restraint of the dishes. The ballotine of duck liver was not overwhelming, but was a similar strength to the cherry and pistachio such that none dominated over the others, and the buttery brioche could still contribute when added to the mix. Similarly, the sauce made from the pigeon carcass for the main savoury dish was complex and rich, but did not drown out the lovage emulsion. Additionally, service here, tableside or otherwise, is exceptional.

Much has been said already of The Ritz, and I don't feel the need to go on ad nauseaum. If nothing else, this is just to add to the voices that consider it a London must-visit.

Courses:

1. Appetisers of Duck Liver & Sour Cherry, Coronation Chicken, and Parmesan & Kalamata Olive (pictured fifth)
2. Smoked Sea Trout, Menton Lemon, Horseradish and Dill
3. Tartare of Beef, Crème Fraiche and Imperial Caviar (pictured second)
4. Datterini Tomato, Basil & Parmesan
5. Ballotine of Duck Liver, Cherry & Pistachio
6. Oyster, Crème Crue & Caviar (pictured first)
7. Agnolotti, Parmesan & Truffle (pictured third)
8. Chestnut Pigeon à la presse (pictured fourth)
9. Grapefruit, Lemon Pepper & Yoghurt
10. The Ritz Signature Chocolate, Hazelnut and Fudge
11. Petits Fours of Vanilla Macaron, Cherry Pastille, Hazelnut Bon Bon, and 69 % Dark Chocolate bar