‘I became familiar with street food and adapted my recipes so they could be eaten on the go’

Chef Magda Gegenava in her restaurant in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. ARTHUR MERCIER FOR M LE MAGAZINE DU MONDE

I am originally from Georgia, but I never lived in the same place for very long. I was born in Moscow and spent my early years in Abkhazia, a region in northwestern Georgia controlled by Russia, where I lost my father. I grew up with the flavors of Mingrelia, which my mother cooked in her restaurant. Even though Georgia is a small country, each region has its own gastronomy, traditions, wines and range of flavors. The richest, most seasoned and most aromatic cuisine comes from Mingrelia. That is the one that left the deepest impression on me and influenced me the most. My husband is from Kakheti, at the other end of the country, and now my cooking is a blend of those two regions.

I grew up next to my mother in the kitchen, learning techniques and flavor combinations from my mom and grandmother, both extraordinary cooks who relied entirely on instinct. The women around me cooked a great deal, but in my family, you were expected to become a doctor. That is a highly respected status in Georgia, whereas being a chef is seen as a disreputable, undervalued profession. I never really wanted to work in medicine. I was more interested in business or management, but I had no choice.

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