Kreta abseits der Massen: Geheimtipps für echte Erlebnisse | Wunderschön | ARD Reisen

Kreta zählt alljährlich zu den beliebtesten Urlaubsinseln der Deutschen. Karibische Strände, traumhafte Berglandschaften, dazu tolles Essen und die sprichwörtliche Gastfreundschaft locken vor allem im Hochsommer massenweise Touristen an. Wer Kreta wirklich echt und authentisch erleben will, für den ist die Nebensaison eine gute Alternative. Für Wunderschön macht sich Reisereporterin Judith Rakers auf die Suche nach Geheimtipps, unentdeckten Flecken und erlebt dabei eine Sehnsucht-Insel, wie sie viele gar nicht kennen: Vom Bogenschießen im Inselinneren über einen kretischen Kochkurs bis hin zu einer kleinen Insel, die nur von einem einzigen Menschen bewohnt wird.

Ein weiteres besonderes Eiland: Die britische Insel Jersey! Wer Tamina Kallerts Tour durch Jersey sehen will, findet den Film und noch vieles mehr in der ARD Mediathek: https://1.ard.de/reisen-wunderschoen-jersey?yt=d

00:00 Intro
02:28 Die berühmte Gastfreundschaft im Bergdorf Kapetaniana
07:55 Auf Pferden durch die wunderschöne Landschaft
13:52 Chania, die zweitgrößte Stadt Kretas
20:54 Einheimische, Rückkehrer und die Entwicklung der Insel
24:57 Gramvousa, die Insel mit nur 2 Einwohnern
34:57 Die Spezialitäten von Rethymnon
37:44 Elafonissi, der schönste Strand Kretas
39:01 Die Kunst des Bogenschießens in Paleochora
47:26 Die Geschichte von Rethymnon
50:48 Kretas Küche
01:01:24 Die wilden Dattelpalmen vom Preveli-Strand
01:02:39 Das Kloster Odigitria
01:08:36 Die felsigen Buchten von Chora Sfakion, Skifahren im Winter
01:16:35 Rodia und die Musik der Insel
01:23:22 Die grüne Lunge Kretas
01:27:47 Outro

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“Wunderschön – Kreta” ist ein Film von Andreas Schlosser. Redaktion: Margit Höh.
Dieser Film wurde 2025 im Auftrag des WDR produziert. Alle Aussagen und Fakten entsprechen dem damaligen Stand und wurden seitdem nicht aktualisiert.

Crete. A place of longing for thousands of years. Many wanted this island: Venetians, Ottomans, and Germans. Today, Crete is a holiday paradise, and holidaymakers are conquering the island. Here you’ll find sun, beach, and sea, but also this millennia-old history. We’ll take a look at what this means for the people here and for the holidaymakers . Crete, an island between Africa and the Greek mainland, shaped by East and West. Beaches like those in the Caribbean. Mountains like those in the Alps. A holiday destination for everyone, for sun worshippers and those seeking peace and quiet. It is said that the Cretan is Cretan first, then Greek. Can you feel it in the people? Can you taste it in the food, or hear it in the music? We want to find out. Subtitles: WDR mediagroup GmbH on behalf of WDR . Crete is vast. Those seeking solitude will find it here. For Markos, this region is still as it used to be. He wants to show us his village. Remote, small, little known. Markos, what kind of place are we arriving at? What kind of bay is this? This is the village of Agios Ioannis, right on the water. There are a few rooms for tourists. We’re mooring here on the beach now. There’s a road up there, we’ll drive up it right away. And then I’ll show you my village, Kapetaniana, in the mountains. A very special place for me. Crete can be reached from Germany in three hours. We’re exploring the western half of the island with its beautiful beaches, with towns that combine history and the present. And a cuisine that’s different and surprisingly healthy. Our first stop, Kapetaniana, a remote mountain village in the south of Crete. Captain Dimitris takes us ashore. The jeep was supposed to continue up to Kapetaniana, but the captain has another plan , and saying no isn’t an option. Water or ouzo? – Water. Water? That’s the water bottle. The day has just begun. Oh, look. She just did that; they’re still hot. These are koulourakia, traditional Greek butter cookies, baked especially at Easter. Ideal with coffee or with the typical Cretan schnapps, raki. The whole oven is full, look. She saw us filming and spontaneously prepared something. That is so lovely. Great. Cheers. – Jassas. Kalos orises? – Welcome. Ah, welcome. – Kalos orises. (speaks Greek) * Music * (speaks Greek) Ah, there’s always more. Oh, delicious. We were supposed to go up the mountain to film. But that’s not possible because the people are so hospitable that we get ambushed. Schnapps and cucumbers. That is Crete. That is Crete. It was so lovely with you. – Thank you very much. Thank you for this spontaneous invitation. Thank you very much, thank you. * Music * Once we have fortified ourselves, we head up to about 800 m. That was such a lovely experience with your friends. I love it. We do that in Crete, especially in the villages. When strangers come to the village, it’s customary to invite them in and offer them something. Usually raki or whatever you have at home. That’s exactly what happened here. I generally find it so nice when food is shoved into my mouth from all sides. Here, you have to be careful not to get too fat. The food is delicious, and people are constantly offering you something. Oh, look. The animals’ ears have markings. Every shepherd can recognize his animals. There are over 50 different herds in the surrounding area. * Music * If you need more of this, let me know. Oh, great. * Music * * Music * And this is Markos’ dream, Kapetaniana. He has spent years reviving the old village, rebuilding and renovating it. * Music * Today, tourists can live here, Hiking, cooking, or simply relaxing. Markos never wanted a traditional hotel, but a functioning village for guests and locals alike. * Music * The village also has a farm. * Music * Alongside sheep, goats, and chickens, there are also 14 horses that village guests can ride. Lea from Hamburg has been here for a year and runs the stud farm. Okay, let’s clean them then. Before we clean, I have a question. What brought you to Greece? I’m a trained bank clerk and psychologist. Bank clerk and psychologist? Then I thought, I like doing things outdoors, I don’t want to wait. Life is too short, I want to enjoy it. I think it’s so great. – Thank you. I vacationed here. Markos, I think he offered me the job on my first visit. Did you say yes straight away? – No. At first I thought he was weird, he didn’t even know me. Unbelievable. Have you ever regretted it? – No. What’s it like being a German woman on the island? It’s a different society than ours. It’s more male-dominated. Is it still the case that men have a classic male role, and women, so divided by gender? But I have to say, I live in a special environment. It’s very isolated here. If you go to the bigger cities, it’s more modern there. It’s different, but here it’s already classic. Lea doesn’t know how long she’ll stay. She’s leaving her future open. * Music * Can you still really see the beauty of nature after a year? I’ve actually asked myself whether you see it less at some point. But no, I often sit there and soak it up. And I enjoy it, see it in a new way with the guests. When I have my guests over for the summer for my riding trips , I see it through their eyes again and again. That’s the nice thing about my job, that you see it in a new way with every guest you have. That’s fantastic. Hey! Hey! Judith! One in black. Judith, come here, try it. Touch here. And then press it. Very good. Oh. What do you do with all the sheep’s milk? We make cheese. Kefalotyri, feta, yogurt, anthotyro, myzithra. Further up we have a hut, that’s where the cheese is made. And there we can eat. What do you like about this life with nature and the animals? I like it because you work in nature, create something. You can be close to the animals, prepare your own food. One by one. There were 92! * Music * It’s great to create what you need to live. You feel freer. You cook yourself, live without a supermarket. You have your animals, your nature. If necessary, you can live without money. My eyes. You’re just touched because we’re about to eat good meat and cheese. I love that laugh. * Music * That’s the best. The crispiest of all. It happens. – Yes? Markos, what is your vision for this retreat, for the farm, for the village? It is important to me that the village remains a village. When I leave, I want it to continue. I want other young people to come, have children, and live there. That is my wish. It is clean, quiet, untouched. You have the sea and the mountains. You can preserve a way of life that is being lost. That is why I am here. (sings in Greek) We drive to the north coast, to Rethymnon. But first we go to the island’s second largest city, Chania. Here we see a different side of Crete. Lively, young, full of activity. * Music * Chania, pleasantly quiet in the off-season. Not too hot, the taverns are relaxed. Only the weather is capricious. Sometimes sunny, sometimes windy, and sometimes rainy. Old houses, narrow streets, a wealth of history. But we also encounter a young, well-connected scene here. Many of the cafés and shops are run by people who have returned or deliberately stayed here. Startups are emerging, new ideas are being tried out. This makes places like Chania attractive to people who want to build something. Effi, did you play backgammon when you were younger? Yes, a little, but also other games, easier ones. What kind of games, digital ones? Yes, I used to be a gamer. – Really? Really professional? – No, not a professional. But I played a lot of video games. For five years, Effi Pouli has been running a co-working space, a kind of digital shared office in the middle of the old town. Do you think that your time as a gamer has anything to do with your work hub today? I really like the digital age. I like what I do. I’m impressed by digital things. Who comes to work in your work hub, the islanders or the digital nomads from all over the world? Actually, we have both. We have people from all over the world, even digital nomads from Australia, America, and Europe. And locals too. Some work with companies abroad and need the space. Working with a sea view. Crete is increasingly appearing on the digital nomad map. You meet them in cities like Chania, usually in cafes with good Wi-Fi and in co-working spaces like Effi Pouli’s. Alexandra is from Poland. We love this place, we love Chania. It’s the perfect city if you want to live and work. Plus, it has wonderful nature. For us, it’s a perfect combination. We have a good work-life balance because we have this energy, a digital nomad community. Chris is from Estonia. It’s special to have this kind of freedom. To work whenever and wherever you want. On the one hand, that definitely benefits life here. On the other hand, I’ve heard locals talk about how it’s making their lives more difficult. Because people with higher salaries from other countries are coming here, and it’s easier for them to pay double the rent a local would pay. Rents have gone up. To counteract rising rents, the government is pushing for stricter regulations on short-term rentals. There are no price caps or rent ceilings yet. The influence of digital nomads is huge. There are people who travel year-round. They don’t just travel in the summer. Do they come in the winter too? Yes, we have a lot of digital nomads right now. And at the beginning of the season. But we also had a lot of people in January. They support the local economy. They contribute to the community. They give a lot back. Things like knowledge about technology, etc. Oh, a horse. That’s very old school. It has nothing to do with digitalization, but I love it. Oh, one more. Hello. Traffic jam. *Music* This church is very special because it has Christian and Middle Eastern elements. Do you also feel these different influences in your daily life? You can see it everywhere. We have buildings from the Ottoman Empire. The city is very multicultural. We have many international people from all over the world. You feel it everywhere. You walk through the streets and hear other languages. It’s really nice. I like it. * Music * Chania, a colorful city with a Venetian old town and Ottoman influences. With narrow streets and a harbor that never sleeps. * Music * The mix is special. Long-time Cretans, digital nomads, returnees from abroad. Many nationalities, many languages, a vibrant mix. A shared attitude to life. Tourists appreciate the city for its charm, the harbor, the atmosphere. And as a starting point for excursions into the hinterland, to wineries, the mountains, or wherever Crete becomes more peaceful. Over the centuries, many Cretans have left the island. Because of wars, crises, or a lack of prospects. Some have returned. Sometimes it’s only their children or grandchildren. Alexandra Manousakis was born in the USA. Her parents emigrated at that time. Today she lives and works in Chania. * Music * It’s simply what comes out of me. You can ask my husband. I’m probably a little crazy. You have to be a little crazy to create something special. She’s a doer, a jack of all trades. Winemaker, designer, hostess. And someone who thinks Crete further in her own way. * Music * Almost 20 years ago, Alexandra took over her father’s winery. It is located about 10 minutes south of Chania. Theodor Manousakis lives in Washington and visits his daughter as often as he can. I was born in this house. My father was also born in this house. I emigrated to America in 1955. Then the house collapsed, the roof caved in. It became a relic. For Alexandra, it was a mammoth task to rebuild the dilapidated property. Today, Cretan wine varieties such as Nostos Romeiko, as well as grapes from Burgundy, are grown. * Music * When Alexandra, in her early 20s, wanted to move from the USA to Crete for good, her father wasn’t really enthusiastic. She called me and said, I want to go to Greece. I thought it would be a long vacation. Then she said, no, forever. You said you can’t go. I said, I’m not asking you, I’m telling you I’m going to go. When he realized I was serious, he said, I have this winery. I said I love wine. I knew nothing about wine except how to drink it. That’s it. As long as I’m alive, people care about it and are proud of it. That’s important to me. * Music * The vineyards are located above Chania, with views across the countryside to the sea. For Alexandra, this is a dream come true. I think everyone who comes here feels this energy and the pull of nature. That’s true of many places. All places with beautiful nature. But here, the peace and quiet you feel is particularly overwhelming. Today, the winery is open to tourists. They can tour the grounds, walk through the vines, taste, ask questions, simply experience it. * Music * In my opinion, the father-daughter relationship is one of the most important in a woman’s life. I think it’s no coincidence that I ended up here, that something drew me here. We’re close, and here it almost feels like I’m closer to him than in Washington. Sounds strange, but it’s true. * Music * Today we’re heading out to sea. We set off from the port in Chania with Panagiotis. Hello! – Hello Judith. Welcome on board. – Thank you. Panagiotis wants to show us places not everyone knows. Our destination: an island where only two people live. * Music * Feels like riding a wild horse. Yes, or like surfing. The first stop is the island of Thodorou. It’s a nature reserve. There are goats there, called Kri-Kri. These goats are found only on Crete and in a few places in the world. Their natural habitat is the White Mountains. Near the Samaria Gorge. They are very wild. But because they mix with other goats and people want to protect the species, some of the goats have been housed on the island. You can’t avoid that in Crete either: World War II. In 1941, German troops attacked the island. The traces are still visible today. Now I’m driving to a wreck from World War II. It’s a German plane. It’s one of the attractions of this area. A German plane? When did it go down? Was that 1941, when the Germans came to the island? Yes, it’s up ahead. – There’s something dark there. But it’s history. We can’t change history. But we can change the future. Now we’re here as friends. – Of course. * Music * Turquoise water, white sand, lagoon, and open sea all at once. Balos Beach. Most people come early in the morning. We do things differently and don’t arrive until the afternoon. * Music * Then Balos Beach is almost deserted. * Music * Next stop, the island of Imeri Gramvousa. There is another shipwreck here. The cargo ship ran aground in 1968 en route to North Africa . Everyone survived. They stayed on the island for 4 or 5 days. Then they were found and everything was fine. You can see the concrete they were transporting back then. Two people live on the island of Gramvousa. One wants to introduce us to Panagiotis. (calls out in Greek) Michalis, a modern-day pirate who looks after the island and gives visitors the feeling that real life is there. Panagiotis comes by regularly and brings fresh fish. The two have known each other for years. Good morning. A bit late for good morning. (speaks Greek) What did he say? He said you were very beautiful and asked if you were married. Thank you. (speaks Greek) He says you can come with him and clean the potatoes. Okay, isn’t that a bit dangerous now? What should I do, cut them up? Peel them? Mhm, good. Very, very good. I think what we’re making here will be delicious. Why do you live here alone on the island? It’s the exhaustion. People have made me very tired. I’ve been through a lot of difficult things in life and I’m looking for peace, quiet, serenity , and the protection of nature. Is there a more beautiful place than this? Look at the greenery, the nature, the birds. You have to come here to recharge your batteries, the inner batteries that we all carry within us. When you’re annoyed, your head explodes. The wind really blows through you, but that has its beauty too. Then you’re here now. It’s just beautiful, isn’t it? Efcharistó. Okay, yes, I’ll try. I don’t mind at all if strangers put food in my mouth. (Man) Good? – Yes. Easy come, easy go. *Music* This fish is called rofos, it’s a grouper. In my opinion, the best fish for fish soup. It’s the hardest to clean. The grouper’s revenge is that it’s hard to clean. * Music * Sometimes I have to go to town to settle scores. Then I put on my hood so no one recognizes me, so I’m left alone. Then I have a coffee for 10 minutes, then I go back to the island. Michalis, it’s better not to argue with you, isn’t it? (speaks Greek) You envy me because I live on the beautiful island. How do you two know each other? From here, because I travel around the area as a spearfisherman. I like him a lot because he’s a free spirit. He’s authentic. And we have become very good friends. Have you seen this before? No, I didn’t see him using it. That’s sea salt. They collected it on the island, try it. That’s real sea salt. You’re in luck, you have your own salt. (speaks Greek) * Music * High above the island of Gramvousa towers an old fortress. Built in the 16th century by the Venetians. On Michalis’s property there is a small chapel. It is open to all visitors. Fishermen come here or tourists light a candle. * Music * * Music * The north of Crete is more touristy. More hotels, more sun loungers, more people and more infrastructure. About an hour east of Chania lies Rethymno. Smaller, more relaxed, but steeped in history. Everything here is a bit Venetian, a bit Ottoman and, above all, quite delicious. Today we are taking a closer look at desserts. * Music * Many recipes date back to Ottoman times. Honey instead of sugar, nuts, cinnamon, sometimes cheese. And almost always more than you need. * Music * Oh, I love it, trying everything. Is that sheep’s milk or goat’s milk? – Sheep’s milk. Yes, the vanilla ice cream tastes different. Super good. Sheep’s milk has more fat. That’s why I prefer it, I like it. Most of the locals like this taste. * Music * The most famous dessert in Crete, without a doubt, baklava. Layered sheets of pastry filled with chopped nuts, topped with syrup or honey. Sounds harmless, but it packs a punch. What used to be reserved for sultans is now in every shop window. From the harbor bakery to the village bar. Dimitris has known the recipe since he was a child. * Music * Is that all baklava? – Yes, that’s all baklava. So different kinds? Different kinds with praline, the latest creation with almonds , and this one is with pistachios. Can I try that? – Of course. It’s so delicious. – It’s a bit too sweet for me. Is it too sweet for you? I don’t know if you like it. – Nothing is too sweet for me. Oh, that’s delicious. It tastes very sweet. Like with lots of sugar and an enormous amount of honey , and then sweet chocolate on top. I like it. We’re meeting up with Dimitris again in the next few days. He has a second passion, though. First, we’re off to the southwest. Elafonissi, perhaps the most beautiful beach in Crete. After that, I’m off to a first. A sport I’ve been interested in for a long time, but I’ve never done before. It’s just under two hours from Chania to Elafonissi beach, but it feels like half a trip around the world. The road winds through mountains and gorges, narrow, winding, sometimes without guardrails. The drive alone is an adventure. It’s worth arriving early, as the parking lots fill up quickly. Elafonissi is known for its shimmering red sand. In high season, the beach is busy, sometimes too busy. If you want to experience the magic, you’re better off coming in spring or fall. * Music * The beach resembles a lagoon landscape. Shallow, crystal-clear water, often only knee-deep, ideal for children. Elafonissi, super beautiful, but not an insider tip. * Music * About an hour from Elafonissi beach lies Paleochora, at the foot of the Lefka Ori mountains. * Music * The road gets narrower and narrower, dustier and dustier. * Music * Be careful, Google Maps sometimes leads you down crazy paths in Crete. It’s worth looking at the maps. Oh no, this is definitely the wrong place. This is also a road, but it’s no better. Either I’m going the wrong way or the approach is adventurous. * Music * There’s a sign, we’re on the right track. We’re meeting Kirsten from Germany and her wife Susanne from Austria. (Kirsten) You’d like to go archery? – Yes. Ever done it? – Never. That’s the best prerequisite you can have. Then you won’t get in the way of thinking anything. Show me how you would hold a bow? Great. – Then we’ll know. Yes? – Yes, everything’s fine. It’s about what you feel, never what you think. Just stay still. – Ah, that’s for your arm. I thought you were going to tie it around your stomach. There are two missing, is that normal? You only need three fingers to shoot. Now you’re getting a quiver because we don’t want to be your caddy. Are you feeling comfortable? – You’ve got that strapped on tightly. Considering I’ve been on the island for a few days. Now there are arrows and Lara Croft is perfect. Oh yes, right. – Not quite. You’d need a bow. Lift your elbow and then pull back with your elbow until your hand is next to the corner of your mouth. That’s all you need. Just move your elbow back. Good, then we can go shooting. It’s that quick. – Are we done yet? Can we release the first shot? Not here. – I wanted to get started. We’d better go to the shooting line for this; you’ll be safer there. We have a flexible shooting line because we sometimes have children. I don’t know exactly how to aim yet. Just look forward. – No, not that? Don’t even try to aim; your body is aiming all day. It’s out there for you all day and would never miss. Unless you start thinking. Now you go further down and just let it go. Yes, clean, it’s hit. At least I hit the mat. – Of course. Now you take a step towards me; now I know how your eyes work. And go, exactly, and again. In the beginning, it’s not about hitting the target. Look, did you notice, you’re leaning backward. Just try to move forward and simply know, I’m good, I’m right, I’m just doing things the way I know how. And I’ll back away very gently and I don’t have to protect myself from the situation. Relaxed, yes, exactly. Take the situation in mind. Very nice. Oh, great, that was fantastic. – Thank you. * Music * Your course is, of course, in a sensational location; there’s nothing here, how beautiful. That’s what we want, for people to be able to find peace. Lying on the beach doesn’t mean you’re calm. Here, they drive on this adventurous road, which anyway… Really adventurous, I thought I was wrong. Then suddenly an experience opens up. You can shoot, you know how it’s done. Great. Well, the animal survived, that’s good news. But try again. It’s still on your mind, you want to shoot high. A little lower. Yes, great. I hit him, poor thing. I’d like to revive him immediately, please. Look, now you’re at the highest point. Look. – Oh, that’s great. That’s beautiful. With a view of the sea. – A dream, isn’t it? Amazing. I mean, was it worth it, right? – Yes. * Music * Yes, again a close call. But you don’t have to look for the arrow in Wallachia. It could be that some people are inhibited about hitting the target? It also depends on the animal. A spider, I would hit that. We see that all the time, especially with women, then they go for the deer. Then the Bambi effect happens. I can’t shoot a Bambi. I’ve learned over the last few days, in conversations with locals and newcomers, that there is still a traditional gender role model here. How did your neighbors react to you as a couple, two women? We had a super-fast integration. Right from the start, we received an enormous amount of respect and appreciation from the Greeks. It’s because of our way of being. We get things done; we hadn’t thought it through beforehand. We love this country. – And the people. (Kirsten) There’s a lot of appreciation there. If you appreciate the way the Greeks are, respect them, then everyone here is accepted as they are. That’s what we experience. I think I’m hitting the mark now, I can feel it right now. Wait. Oh, things are already off to a good start. Right next door is Paleochora, a small harbor town on the south coast of Crete. Paleochora seems relaxed, a few tavernas, two beaches, and excursion boats for tourists. Everywhere on Crete and throughout Greece, Independence Day is celebrated on March 25th. In Paleochora, it’s rather small, with parades, celebratory church services, and public events. The beginning of the Greek War of Independence against the Ottoman Empire in 1821 is being celebrated. Back in Rethymno. We’re meeting Dimitris, the pastry chef, again. Many people on Crete live closely with their past and have a strong connection to their homeland. Dimitris grew up in Rethymno; he knows every corner, every stone. The Venetian fortress Fortezza in Rethymno, originally built to protect against pirates, fell into the hands of the Ottoman conquerors in 1646. When the Ottomans came to Crete and conquered Chania and Rethymno, they gave the Cretans a choice: remain as they were or convert to Islam and become Muslims, Ottomans, and receive privileges. The Cretans who didn’t convert to Islam were oppressed. There was no justice. That’s why, many years later, there were so many Cretan revolutions. Against the Ottomans? Against the Ottomans. The Ottomans, that was the former Turkish empire, existed until the beginning of the 20th century. Even in the old town of Rethymno, two eras lie close together: the Venetian and the Ottoman periods. Look at that, it’s from the 16th century. – And it’s also Venetian. Up ahead, a very beautiful door. – Oh yes. It’s Roman letters. – Yes, that’s Latin. This door is about 150 years old. The wood might be Venetian. Nobody lives in this beautiful house? – No, unfortunately. * Music * That’s a minaret, isn’t it? – Yes, that’s a minaret. A double minaret. I think it’s one of the largest in Crete. It was first a Venetian church, but after the conquest of Rethymno, it became an Ottoman mosque. Later, they built this large minaret. Are there still many Muslims in the city today? No, they fled after the last revolution in 1897. Can you get water there? And is it drinkable? – Yes. At your own risk, of course. It’s warm today. Making history tangible. We are on our way to experience exactly that. Immerse yourself in another world. The kitchen also shows that Crete has been cooking differently for centuries. * Music * We are attending a cooking class in the village of Xirosterni. * Music * A small town between Rethymno and Chania. Hello, Judith. – Nice to meet you. Hello. Judith, nice to meet you. Hello. – Hi, I’m Helen. And you’re from? – I’m Greek and British. Servus, I’m Nela from Bavaria. And moin, I’m Marianne, from East Frisia. That’s unusual, from Northern Germany. Hello, welcome, Maria. – Maria, I’m very pleased. Welcome. Let’s get started. First, dakos are prepared. This used to be considered poor people’s food. Today it is a specialty. So girls and boys, listen up, first we’re going to chop up the tomato. Looks dangerous. Oh, I can’t watch. Oh, now it’s me. Bravo. Wonderful. It’s not as dangerous as I thought. Because of the peel. – Yes, the peel protects. That much oil, really? – Yes, yes. Up to here? Still more? – Everything’s fine. Stop, stop. – Now. Yes, almost. Smell. Oregano, yes, great. Does it grow in your garden? – Yes. Oh, lovely. Crumbles? – Yes. Oh, lots. I use it always, everywhere, in all dishes. It’s different than when you buy it from the supermarket, packaged in a plastic container. Now a bit of sea salt. Are you making something too? – No, we’ll watch you now. We’ll eat then. – A whole spoonful? I bought a spray bottle for oil so that too much doesn’t end up in the pan. A spray bottle, my latest acquisition. Any Cretan would laugh and say, what are you doing? A bit like bruschetta in Italy. Only it’s a bit more liquid here. Yes, it’s so liquid because the bread is so hard, you can’t eat it like that. It makes the bread soggy. – Exactly, that’s why there’s so much oil. And a bit of cheese on top. – That’s this cream cheese. Delicious. – I’ve already… That’s what makes Crete special. Tomatoes, cheese, herbs, olive oil. How do you already know so much about Cretan cuisine? Because I’ve made it many times myself. You have to have the right ingredients. But I’ve been here for 30 years, so I know Dakos. My heart is here; I’m no longer in East Frisia. What do you like so much about Crete that you even moved here? It’s simply the mentality here, this calm, relaxed atmosphere. Many people say they’re lazy, but they’re not. They’re just relaxed. They say everything will work out. And everything always does. And the hospitality, they’re just nice. So welcome, help yourself. Two more are missing here. Do you toast with starters? – No, no. We didn’t want to drink schnapps straight away. Although, that’s part of it, isn’t it? The fact that you can get raki here at lunchtime is part of it. There it is, look. It tastes very, very good. Very careful, it’s strong. Yamas. – Yamas. Yamas, yamas. I think it’s very strong. You can feel it going down. – It’s here right now. Oh, now it’s here. In the past, all the products a house needed to live were produced on Crete . That’s nice, isn’t it? When you feel like you’re not dependent on food deliveries. * Music * Marilinn is a freelance sommelier and is responsible for the wine. Hello. We have a lot of local wines on Crete and in general throughout Greece. That’s why I brought a few different ones. Come along, there’s wine here. Now I spoke in Greek. Yamas. – Yamas. (Marianne) Well, if it continues like this… Nice wine to celebrate the raki. It’s really delicious. It’s simply special. Why did you move here? We were here during the Corona period for work and holiday. Originally planned for two weeks. Then we said, it’s really nice. Shall we stay for a third time? After three weeks, he asked: Shall we stay? I think so. Are you both working here now, too? We have our remote office here. But I can go swimming before and after work. It’s really awful. How do Cretans react to people who say, I don’t just want to go on holiday? Are you welcomed with open arms? They are happy. If you come to live here, to integrate, you are welcome. The hospitality is sensational. * Music * This is mint, we call it Diosmos. We only use the tip. Very good. This is a different kind of mint. We use this for Kalitsounia. This is for cocktails. This smells so good. Thyme, and this is fresh oregano. Look, this is organic. A little mini snail. In Crete, healthy eating is a given. Doctors call it the Cretan diet. Many people here live to a remarkably old age. That’s something we noticed when we first came here. When we drove around, there were a lot of cemeteries here. You look at the ages on the stones, and there are people who live to be 90, 100, and more. It has a lot to do with the food. It’s very hilly here. I see a lot of activity and things like that. If you want to live a long time… – …come to Greece. I’ll try to see if there’s enough salt. Okay. I do that too, drying my own herbs. But I chop them up and then put them in a container. It’s much nicer that way. I take a few things home with me. You have to take an empty suitcase and then put the ingredients in and then back again. We take things to Germany and bring things back. We take herbs and bring back Leberkäse. Half the suitcase is always full. You’re bringing Leberkäse to Greece? Very tasty. – Mhm. Get to safety back there. Now for Kalitsounia, filled pastries. Savory with spinach, wild herbs, and cheese. The dough is made from wheat flour, olive oil, water, and white wine vinegar and is rolled out thinly. They contain meat, usually lamb or goat. Not from the wholesale market, but from our own stable or a neighbor’s. * Music * Those are the really fresh ones. – You made those. Do you still recognize yours? Someone here also did a very messy job. * Music * It smells really strongly of berries. * Music * The south of Crete is drier, warmer, wilder. We visit a palm oasis at Preveli Beach. A monastery where silence matters more than anything else. And steep rocky cliffs near Chora Sfakion. Preveli Beach is about an hour from Rethymno. A wild date palm grows here, found nowhere else in Europe in this form. No landscaped garden, no resort, just pure nature. * Music * Those arriving by car park above the beach and must continue on foot. The descent takes about 15 to 20 minutes over stony steps and rocks. The return journey is steep and no walk in the sun. * Music * A more comfortable option is by boat. The palm beach is regularly serviced from several locations on the south coast . * Music * We drive to the Odigitria Monastery. Monasteries on Crete have played an important role for centuries. They were built in remote, inaccessible areas, not just for spiritual reasons, but out of necessity. They offered protection and refuge during conquests and rebellions. * Music * The Odigitria Monastery is located in the very south of Crete, in the mountains at an altitude of about 250 m. Seven monks live and work here. What a beautiful place. You immediately feel the peace that emanates from this place. Yes, that’s right, it is a very beautiful, peaceful and holy place. Blessed by God and the Virgin Mary. I am a great animal lover and I can tell that it is a peaceful place, if only by the fact that so many cats live together without fighting. In this place, God’s peace reigns, for people and animals. God gives us this peace so that we can live in harmony and love. No war, no conflict, but love, unity and peace. * Music * That is beautiful. Lots of old frescoes and icons. Very old. The church is very old, from the 14th century. You can still see frescoes. The entire church was covered with wall paintings. Some of them and old icons have been preserved. Very old. Do you think it does something to a place when people come to it over the centuries with their longings, wishes, thoughts and sorrows? If a place serves good, then it is blessed. But if it is used for evil, it is cursed. A place of prayer is blessed. Whoever comes here feels this grace, this blessing and this peace deep within themselves. Beautiful, dried flowers. * Music * The Virgin Mary is venerated here as Odigitria, the guide. The monastery was once destroyed by Saracen pirates. A rich, noble woman without family was led here by the Virgin Mary. She asked to be allowed to become a nun and rebuilt the monastery. She called it Odigitria because Mary had led her here. * Music * The Odigitria Monastery looks back on a long history. It was destroyed again and again. During the Ottoman occupation and later during the Second World War. But each time it was rebuilt. The Venetians were here as early as the 13th century. From 1212, when the Crusaders conquered Byzantium, Crete belonged to Venice. There was peaceful cooperation until 1669. Then the Turks came until the end of the 19th century. During this time there were many wars, massacres and destruction. Is it true that resistance fighters were housed here during the German occupation ? We love our homeland and our faith in monasteries. We have always helped in battles. We hid fighters and protected people so that they did not starve or be killed by the occupiers. Tourists are very welcome at the Odigitria Monastery. Please pay attention to your clothing. Shoulders and knees should be covered. We stay on the south coast. Here the mountains fall steeply into the sea. Hidden among the rocks are coves that hardly anyone knows about and are often only accessible by water. That’s what we want to experience. The ideal starting point: Chora Sfakion, a small harbor town on the south coast. * Music * We meet Babis, half-Austrian, Damulis, half-German, and Christos, a true Cretan. They live here and know every rocky outcrop and every current. They take us to places on Crete that are almost deserted. * Music * What can I do? Give us a hand here with the fenders forward. Should I take them off? – Yes. Chora Sfakion is a mecca for boat rentals. With or without a captain. The selection ranges from small to larger excursion boats. What should I do? – Help me, I’m turning. Like this? – Yes, now come here. Take the sail. This rope. Hard, hard. Hard. Larger boats or catamarans can only be steered by those with a coastal license. Or you can go with a skipper. Yes, it’s unrolled. – Okay, thank you. Hard work, isn’t it? There is the island. There is your destination. Stay in that direction. How do you feel when you’re on the water? The most important thing is not arriving. The most important thing is the journey and the feeling with the wind, the sails. Feeling the dynamics of the wind for the ropes, for the sails, that’s the most important thing. Forget everything and concentrate on the wind, the sea, the sun and all that. It’s a fantastic feeling. How often are you on the water? – Every day. In summer you are on the water and what do you do in winter? I have a company that organizes ski touring in Crete. Ski touring? – Yes, ski touring. Because the mountains are close here. It’s very exciting because there are 54 peaks at 2,000 m. Hard to believe, but you can actually ski in Crete. From November to May there’s enough snow up in the Lefka Ori. No lifts, no piste maps, if you want to go up you have to walk. Welcome to the summer on Crete. The whole thing is called ski-hiking. Up on touring skis, with a bit of luck on powder snow down. But only with a mountain guide. The best bit: if you time it right, you can trudge through the snow in the morning and jump into the sea in the afternoon. Winter up above, spring down below. Here we have Loutro. It’s accessible via the hiking trail, on foot, or by ferry. It’s all a hotel. Do no locals live there anymore? In winter two people live here. But when you’re here, what do you do as a tourist? You can hike a lot, swim of course, and just relax. * Music * Babis grew up in Freiburg for a while. A few years ago he finally decided on Crete. * Music * Now we’re going on the dinghy. Damulis wants to show us a part of the coast that can only be reached by water. He is half-Austrian and studied hotel management in Vienna. * Music * Now we’re going to Greece’s most famous cave, the Daskaloyannis Cave. This is where Daskaloyannis staged his first successful resistance against the Turks in 1821. Supposedly, the cave was connected to a church 5 km further upstream. Whenever the Turks came, he escaped through this cave. So, into the church and down? They were Muslims; they weren’t allowed into the church; they were afraid of the church. So he went into the hole in the church and came out here. * Music * You can get in there by boat? – You can get in there by boat. People often come in by canoe, or they snorkel in here when they anchor their boat outside. * Music * You can hide here, right? – Yes, of course. That’s what Daskaloyannis did in the actual cave. He wanted to print coins there and kept his guns. If you look, there are many hotels called Daskaloyannis. The airport in Chania is Daskaloyannis. But also the ferry. If I had grown up here, I would have gone into these caves as a child to see if I could find treasure. I did, to be honest. Always in there as a child, snorkeling for hours, even harpooning, etc. Have you ever found treasure? I found a wreck, unfortunately not with gold. Which means the treasure is still there. Yes, that’s right. It could still be found. – That’s possible. * Music * For many, Crete is a place of longing. Some make more of it; they stay. For a few months, for a few years , or for the rest of their lives. Sarah and Daniel from Stuttgart want to stay, maybe forever. Gabriela supports them; she knows both worlds. She grew up in East Berlin with a Cretan father. She explains things about bureaucracy, everyday life, and local food. Here on Crete, we have excellent, healthy cuisine. People lived here for a really long time, even in the villages for over 100 years, because they ate healthily. They didn’t have supermarkets, but their own products. One of the super products is this one: Hondros. You can feed your family with it. My grandmother had seven children, and you have to feed them. What the old people still do is take the sour milk and boil it together. Then this is what you get. This is one of our super foods that all Cretans love. Three parts milk and one part wheat and boil it. The consistency is like a dog treat. But not bad. We decided to set off in a motorhome almost 1.5 years ago. For some reason, we ended up on Crete. And have been here since February 1st. People who have lived here longer or would like to try it out: how can they emigrate? What is Cretan culture like? What makes Cretans tick? Because they tick very differently. You have to get to know each other. That’s the interesting thing. When people come here and want to have contact with the people, to see where they are. Greek mythology is a story that constantly gets complicated. It has no beginning and no end. These stories are also therapeutic. In what way? There is nothing that mythology doesn’t address. This here with Gabriella makes it so easy for us to speak German again and to hear the stories, to immerse ourselves in it, to get tips on how, where, what, when, and why. It’s worth its weight in gold. (Gabriella) We also help with bureaucratic matters. So, if anyone here wants to emigrate to Crete, I would advise them to take it slowly and not to give up everything in Germany. Always take it easy and not to feel like, ” I’m leaving Germany, I can’t stand Germany.” I don’t think that’s a good idea. They should leave Germany in peace. For Sarah and Daniel, it’s now time to learn Greek. But everything sounds a little different on Crete. The dialect is unique, with its own words, different rhythms, and a different tone than on the mainland. You can hear this in the music, too. In the small town of Rodia, above the capital Heraklion, we meet musicians who introduce us to Cretan music. * Music: Nikos and Giorgos Stratakis “Gerateia” * Nikos and Giorgos Stratakis, two of the most famous representatives of modern Cretan folk music. How does the music on Crete differ from that on the mainland? The difference lies primarily in Crete’s geographical location, between two large seas: the Libyan Sea and the Aegean Sea. Because of its uniqueness, the island has had many conquerors. All of them left their mark. That’s why our music is influenced by many cultures. Compared to the rest of Greece, there is a musical diversity here that continues to evolve. That doesn’t exist elsewhere. Nikos and Giorgos actually wanted to play outside, but the weather is putting a stop to our plans. We are allowed to attend a rehearsal and move to a Venetian mansion from 1565. (sings in Greek) Crete’s music is unique; it’s often improvised. Melodies and lyrics arise in the moment and can unfold for minutes. It’s often about heartbreak and love. This song is about a mother protecting her nest. They say a woman like that is hard to find. Giorgios wrote the song about my wife. Nikos wrote the lyrics about my wife. The music, your music at least, is successful with young people, with the younger generation. What does your generation like so much about this music? That’s our origin. The music is real, and we love it. Many learn their instrument not at music school, but at home, from a young age. This way, music doesn’t remain a tradition, but becomes a part of everyday life. (sings in Greek) The last stop on our journey, the green lung of Crete. In the center and west of the island, around the Lefka Ori Mountains. Here, Crete still lives, to a certain extent, as it always has. Dense pine and cypress forests, wild gorges, rare herbs. We meet Haritos and Manolis, twin brothers. One is usually at his laptop, the other on the tractor. They come running up. Oh, they’re already waiting. Visitors from Germany. (speaking Greek) What do I call out? Éla. (speaking Greek) I grew up with animal husbandry. I’m out alone. I don’t need anything else. I go first, everything follows. * Music * Your brother has the best job in the world. At Manolis, a lot of things are still the same as before. But IT is making inroads here, too. Digital feeding plans, animal health data on the phone. This saves time, is more efficient, and more sustainable. I studied computer science and also teach at various schools. Manolis works in agriculture and animal husbandry. We combine the digital with natural life. A new way of growing. Traditionally rooted, but digitally supported. It works very well. We are twins, one complements the other. The differences in altitude, fertile soil, and plenty of spring water in the Lefka Ori Mountains all create ideal conditions for diversity. Those are kiwi trees, right? The village is at an altitude of 660 m. Kiwi grows well here. In Crete, you can find tropical fruits like mangoes and then chestnuts within a short distance. We have lots of chestnut trees. And now also avocados, tangerines, lemons, oranges, cherries, and apples. * Music * Oh, Mom. Living with animals here on Crete, with sheep, bees, and goats, has a very long tradition. Is it still part of modern life here? Tradition is part of our lives. We continue traditional sheep farming. It’s a hard job, but we love it. It’s not a job, it’s a lifestyle. You have to love certain things, otherwise it’s not for you. For me, it’s my whole life. Even at the end of our trip, saying no wasn’t an option. (sings in Greek) New food is constantly being fetched here; it never ends. But my trip is coming to an end. A week in Crete is behind me. Now it’s already clear: I’ll be back. That’s not just because of the beautiful nature, but above all because of the fantastic people I met here. I’ve rarely experienced such genuine, heartfelt hospitality in a place that’s such a popular holiday destination. That’s why I’d say: Yamas. – Yamas. Copyright WDR 2025