Though the name translates to “red head,” Testa Rossa is hardly a redheaded stepchild. This spunky little sister of Fearless Restaurants’ Rosalie Wayne brings a vibrant Italian-American concept to the former Ruby’s Diner in Glen Mills. Philadelphia’s Stokes Architecture & Design artfully updated the exterior profile, incorporating bold mid-century modern motifs into the façade. Perfect for summer, the 50-seat patio features scalloped, sunshine-yellow umbrellas, a fountain and a curved white breeze-block wall, making it one of the more fabulous alfresco destinations in the area.
Beverage director Thomas Stevens
Culinary director Merick Devine
The retro-chic interior wows with fire-engine-red accents, bold patterns and near-manic (in a good way) geometric prints. The fusion of ’60s nostalgia with fun present-day touches is also evident in the velvet booths and sculpted benches (red, naturally), hairpin chairs, and wainscoted walls adorned with framed travel postcards.
Creative cocktails
The spectacular terrace
Rigatoni alla vodka
Culinary director Merick Devine offers his own twist on traditional Italian cuisine. We kicked things off on a refreshing note with the chilled gazpacho (topped with dollops of stracciatella) before heading straight for the carbs, grazing on golf ball-sized garlic knots and crispy battered calamari fritti (with a smooth lemon aioli and colorful pickled peppers). Served al dente with a mild kick, the Angry Crab Linguini could be a little angrier. The rigatoni alla vodka was solid, and a cheesy meat-lovers’ pizza held its own.
Summer gazpacho
The colorful bar area
At the U-shaped bar, you can grab an emerald-colored leather stool and complement your seasonal spritz-style cocktail with rosemary focaccia, polenta and meatballs, or one of a selection of pasta dishes. Our party savored a bourbon-and-rum-based Leave the Gun, a Take the Banana (with infused banana liqueur) cocktail and a cannoli-topped espresso martini. And don’t skip dessert, if only to sample the signature cinnamon-coated bomboloni.
Angry Crab Linguini
Cost: $5-$34.
Atmosphere: Retro Italian and fun.
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Friday, 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Saturday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday
Attire: Casual, but dress glam for fun.
Cinnamon-coated bomboloni
Testa Rossa
919 Baltimore Pike, Glen Mills, (610) 335-9900
Website
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Dining and Cooking