What was your first industry job?
A small restaurant in Genoa, where I come from. I was a commis and dishwasher.
If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?
Hard to say. Possibly a drummer, I used to play for a while a long time ago.
What industry figure do you most admire, and why?
Giorgio Locatelli. Having spent so many years working together, I consider him my mentor. I admire what he has done for Italian cuisine, bringing the excellence of Italian culture in London and around the world.
What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?
Disorganisation.
What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?
Customers can be very harsh from time to time. I remember once, one customer called me at the table and told me that I should be ashamed to serve a dish which in all honesty I don’t even remember. I felt embarrassed, but it also was a lesson to do better. Likely the same night a couple near that table gave a lot of compliments after hearing what happened. So I guess I was fine after all.
Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…
Unfussy, season-led and delicate.
What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?
I believe the worst one was when one guest wrote that the food, when I was at the now closed Diciannove in Blackfriars, was worse than dog food! It was very nasty and it did hurt my feelings. But, again, it was a lesson to do better.
What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?
Stay focused and humble, keep your head down and work hard, and learn from the best chefs. Also don’t stay too little in a job – it takes time to learn all the sections and to see how the restaurant really works.
Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
Sharp knives.
What would you choose to eat for your last meal?
Trofie pasta with pesto sauce.
À la carte or tasting menu?
À la carte.
What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?
Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road.
What’s your favourite fast food joint?
Comptoir Libanais.
What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?
Locanda Locatelli’s scallops with celeriac puree and saffron reduction.
MasterChef or Great British Menu?
Great British Menu.
What’s the most overrated food?
Truffle oil. Although it has a rich, earthy flavour, it can be strong and cover the other ingredients.
You’re a restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?
People that are getting late for work.
Who would your dream dinner party guests be?
My family and my wife first. As a famous personality, possibly Gordon Ramsay – I think he has a funny side to him and would make a good dinner party guest.
What’s your earliest food memory?
Having some focaccia, which is originally from my region Liguria with a cappuccino on the seaside as a kid.
Twitter or Instagram?
Instagram.
What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?
I had a very bad car accident as a kid with my family. Fortunately nobody got hurt badly.
Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?
A cosy cafe or on a walk.
What’s your tipple of choice?
It has to be a negroni.
What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?
I would say a nice piece of focaccia with cappuccino. In Genoa is common to eat savoury with a sweet cappuccino, but only in the morning!
What do you consider to be your signature dish?
Something that I prepared a few years back at Taste of London. It was a reinterpretation of a classic Aperol spritz, crafted with Aperol mousse, prosecco sorbet and fresh orange zest.
Dining and Cooking