Believe it or not there is an estate just outside Melbourne, in the wine-growing region of Victoria in Australia, called Lyons Will. Sadly it doesn’t export to the UK any more, but as I said when I visited in January it would have to reprint the labels anyway, as they’re back to front. But what surprised me about the trip to my namesake, run by the charming Renata Morello and Ollie Rapson, was not the name but how cold it was. A few days earlier in Melbourne there was a 40C heatwave, but standing in the vineyard it felt more like Edinburgh on a chilly spring day.
Victoria doesn’t do Aussie stereotypes. The country’s smallest state after Tasmania is also one of its coolest and you won’t find brash, heavy shiraz or rich, oaky chardonnay here. Instead the emphasis is on elegant wines with subtle, delicate flavours and lower alcohol, red fruit (think cherry, strawberry and raspberry) and an ability to improve with age. Far from the more famous Barossa Valley and Margaret River, this is probably the best fine wine region you have never heard of and its estates are beginning to make a real name for themselves.
There are more than 800 producers in Victoria, making everything from sparkling wine in the prosecco style to sweet fortifieds. What they do best, though, helped significantly by the cool climate, is whistle-clean chardonnay, fruity pinot noir and syrah in a refined, northern Rhône style. If you’re priced out of the grand old European regions such as Burgundy, this is where you should be looking.
If global temperatures continue to rise, cool climate regions producing at this quality will become more in demand. As well as these six recommendations, producers on my list would include Ten Minutes by Tractor, Mount Mary, Yarra Yering and Giant Steps.
Yering Station The Elms Chardonnay (12.5%)
Waitrose, £11
Yering’s vines date back to the 19th century and its rich, elegant chardonnay has a golden hue and peachy fruit.
2022 Wild Daisy Cabernet Sangiovese (14%)
The Sunday Times Wine Club, £13.99
This smooth blend from Andrew McPherson melds uplifting cherry with juicy blackcurrant.
2024 Tahbilk The Tower Marsanne (13%)
Majestic, £14.50
An award-winner, this crisp, clean marsanne has mineral hints and inviting notes of tropical fruit on the finish.
2021 Exhibition Victoria Shiraz (14%)
The Wine Society, £15.50
Produced by the cool climate specialist Mount Langi Ghiran, this plush shiraz oozes black cherry, spice and cassis.
2020 Scotchmans Hill Shiraz (14%)
House of Townend, £30.99
A delicate, peppery syrah in the classic Rhône style with notes of cherry and a spicy, meaty finish.
2023 Paringa Estate Peninsula Pinot Noir (13%)
Tanners, £28
Packed with succulent cranberry, this bold, vibrant pinot has a smoky edge and a silky texture.
Bargain of the week
2023 Pannier Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
France (11%)
Morrisons, £8.25
This charming muscadet is full of citrus and floral aromas, with a dry, zesty kick.
Dining and Cooking