When Chez Maggy opened in February 2022 in conjunction with the unveiling of The Thompson Hotel on 16th and Market, it was a bright spot in an otherwise murky and negative discourse on 16th Street’s recent story. What was once the beating artery of Downtown Denver had – especially in the wake of Covid which wrought havoc on its shops, restaurants, crowds and general sense of safety – descended into something much less desirable than the destination it used to be. But along with projects like the Thompson Hotel and nearby Market Station, the larger 16th Street renovation – as much of a slog as the process has been at times – is seemingly changing the streetscape for the better and reinvigorating a sense of life into parts of Downtown that have felt a little too quiet and been left a little too barren for a little too long.
Photo Courtesy of Thompson Denver
Photo Courtesy of Thompson Denver
The French bistro serves all meals of the day, including a stellar happy hour, and is the brainchild of globally acclaimed Chef Ludo Lefebvre. In a city where, with a few neighborhood exceptions, French food has long been lacking, Chef Ludo and Chez Maggy bring the cuisine’s classics in elevated spades. The piping hot, rich and savory escargots are worth the effort of prying them from their shells. Eat with ripped bites of fresh baguette dipped into and dragged through the aromatic, intense sauce. The County Terrine is a nostalgic, salty representation molded with pistachio and served alongside buttery French bread, spicy Dijon, caramelized onion jam and cornichons, of course.
Yet even for the traditionally heavy scope of French cuisine, much of Chez Maggy’s menu is thoughtfully crafted with warmer temperatures in mind. The tuna tartare is bright, its acidity cutting through the fattiness of the fish, and its potato hay supplying a juxtaposing warmth. Pillowy Parsian Gnocchi tastes surprisingly light, even with the earthy addition of foraged mushrooms. The Trout Almondine – presented with precision, entirely encrusted in thinly sliced almonds – finds subtlety in the balance between the rich brown butter and bright haricots verts.
Photo Courtesy of Marc Fiorito // Gamma Nine Photography
Photo Courtesy of Marc Fiorito // Gamma Nine Photography
All those dishes – amongst many other light bites across each of Chez Maggy’s daily menus – are designed to be enjoyed harmoniously on their brand-new terrace, which is two-tiered and slightly elevated above 16th Street off the Thompson Hotel lobby’s West door. Though it took years from the time of their opening, the outdoor addition was well worth the wait. Once manufactured and delivered to the restaurant’s doorstep, a prefabricated collection of custom designed puzzle pieces was assembled in a matter of days, enveloping a few of the trunks from the 16th Street remodel’s treescape. Its upper tier is furnished with white tables, chairs and umbrellas in the style of a bistro on the French Coastline. The lower tier offers a less formal set of dining furniture, instead built out with lounge chairs and cushioned couches.
The menus, the terrace and the cozy furniture are all likewise paired perfectly with the drink menu. On a warm Summer evening, the Maggy Martini – a slightly sweet yet balanced play on the Vesper, garnished with a cube of gelatinous Black Currant Fruit Leather – defines refreshment. In any season, the wine list is expectedly well curated, though the terrace recommendation leans towards Champagne, Rosé or Sancerre.
Photo Courtesy of Marc Fiorito // Gamma Nine Photography
Photo Courtesy of Marc Fiorito // Gamma Nine Photography
The entirety of the terrace experience is immersive, removing guests from the hustle and bustle of 16th Street traffic, and placing them – if only for a brief moment – somewhere chic, stylish and unyieldingly French. In the right temperature, with a glass of Provence Rose in hand and when the sun peaks between the buildings just right, you’re allowed to pretend you’re in Biarritz.
And at the same time, Chez Maggy’s terrace is a celebration of what 16th Street still has so much promise to be. The dreams of the French coastline die on the vine when a group of rowdy Rockies fans stumble by on their way to Coors Field, but that doesn’t mean the terrace can’t be simultaneously immersive yet so very Denver. In an outdoor dining and day drinking town, Chez Maggy is offering the newest way to do exactly that, in an environment, and to an elevated standard that feels new, exciting and incredibly inviting.
Photo Courtesy of Thompson Denver
Photo Courtesy of Thompson Denver
Chez Maggy is located inside the Thompson Hotel at 1616 Market St., Denver. Its hours are Breakfast: Monday – Friday 7 – 11 a.m.; Brunch: Saturday – Sunday 8 a.m. – 2 p.m.; Lunch Monday – Friday 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.; Dinner: Sunday – Thursday 5 – 9 p.m., Saturday – Sunday 5 – 10 p.m. Its Bar hours are Monday – Friday 11 a.m. – 11 p.m. with food available until 10 p.m., Saturday – Sunday 9 a.m. – midnight with food available until 11 p.m.
Dining and Cooking