Cheyenne Dorsagno
cdorsagno@uticaod.com
| Observer-Dispatch
This week’s review is about Daniele Imports, 1556 Mohawk St., Utica. Intern Cheyenne Dorsagno and her parents, Harry and Dawn, went there recently and had this to say:
About the restaurant: Growing up, even as a broke teenager, it was easy to scrape up six quarters and walk around the corner from my home to Daniele’s for a piece of tomato pie. The yellow awnings outside invite the hungry patrons into a quaint, charming restaurant.
Seeing the colorful landscape mural and tables topped with red pepper, grated cheese and olive oil, it’s evident that this is an Italian eatery. Owner Theresa Daniels was up front and center, smiling and greeting many of the customers by name, adding to the familial feel. Homemade goods such as macaroni hats sit in the freezer by the door, asking to be brought home and cooked fresh.
What we ordered: crust pieces of tomato pie, $1.50 each; greens, $10.95; ribeye sandwich, $12.95; vodka riggies, $9.95; triple chocolate gelato, $4.95.
Cheyenne’s review: Going into this, I decided to put Daniele’s up to a big challenge. We purposely ordered the Utica staples to see if the restaurant could live up to these legendary foods. Not only could Daniele’s stand with the best of them but, when it comes to the tomato pie, the restaurant met the challenge. Some places offer overly sweet, deeply red tomato pie with a dry crust. Daniele’s is more savory as well as perfectly chewy with a crisp bottom and crunchy crust. Atop the pie are parsley flakes and pecorino romano cheese, an Italian-American staple which holds almost as much importance as salt.
Harry’s review: The Utica greens had all of the vital components — escarole, chunks of prosciutto, and hearty squares of hot peppers and onions. The dish was warm and textured. The ribeye sandwich was juicy, unbelievably tender, and well complemented with mushrooms, onions, and oozing mozzarella cheese. The sides, a refreshing pickle and potato chips, fried and seasoned in house, were a bonus.
Dawn’s review: The vodka riggies were composed of al dente macaroni, a pleasantly creamy sauce, and bits of prosciutto. The vodka was pungent in the sauce but this could be accredited to a palate that is overly sensitive to alcohol. Harry, who typically dislikes vodka riggies, said that these were very good. The dessert, layers of chocolate and white chocolate gelato, was imported. Give it a moment to unfrost and you’ll have a rich, velvety treat that contrasts well with the bite of the cold chocolate chips.
Our favorite part: The tomato pie is undoubtedly the best Utica has to offer. And since tomato pie belongs to Utica, that basically makes it the best in the world. We were also given a complimentary loaf of bread that was warm and soft on the inside, crusty on the outside, and generously topped with salty grated cheese.
Could be improved: The table agreed that, while everyone loves bread crumbs, the greens would be better off if the breadcrumbs were only sprinkled on top rather than mixed throughout to help them maintain their crunchy texture. Nixing the pink paper placemats would be more eco-friendly and sophisticated.
Atmosphere: 4/5
Taste: 5/5
Presentation: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Dining and Cooking