Joseph Rawlins, 32, decided to introduce the epicurean menu after wanting to try something new with his Cheshire-based French fine dining restaurant, La PopoteKelly Ashmore Senior Reporter and SWNSCharlieFenton (Charlie Fenton)

10:35, 17 Aug 2025

Three people holding a glass of water

A Michelin-starred restaurant has unveiled the UK’s only bottled water menu, with prices reaching up to £20 per bottle.

Joseph Rawlins, 32, decided to introduce this gourmet menu at his Cheshire-based French fine dining establishment, La Popote.

The co-owner and head chef, hailing from Wilmslow in Cheshire, collaborated with one of only five British water sommeliers, Doran Binder, 52, to curate the menu.

Doran, a resident of Wildboarclough, Macclesfield, Cheshire, has dedicated the past seven months to selecting the perfect bottles after receiving Joe’s approval in January this year.

The idea was initially proposed to him three years ago.

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The menu offers a choice of seven bottles, including four still options – one of which is tap water – and four sparkling varieties.

The carefully chosen selection originates from various European countries, including France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Iceland, and the UK.

Prices range from £5 for Doran’s own Crag Spring Water to a hefty £19 for Portuguese sparkling water The Palace of Vidago, all served in wine glasses.

However, the restaurant’s wine prices vary from £28 to nearly £400 per bottle.

Joe commented: “The restaurant scene has changed a lot over the years we have been getting fewer big tables more groups of twos and fours.

“That means at least one person there will most likely be driving and not be drinking as such.

“To try and keep up with the market, we wanted to offer something a bit different.

“Everything has been positive, it is a bit of fun, and we are looking forward to seeing where it goes.”

Joe assumed control of the establishment alongside his partner Gaëlle Radigon, 37, back in 2019.

During their tenure, they transformed the venue into their own vision, earning recognition as a Michelin Guide-listed French Restaurant in December 2022.

Joe explained that when they acquired the restaurant, they retained only a select few of the previous suppliers, with Doran being amongst them.

Doran had been supplying his prize-winning water, Crag Spring Water, to the establishment since 2018.

The sommelier initially proposed the concept of a bottled water menu to Joe in June 2023, extending an invitation for a water tasting session.

Joe recalled: “He pitched the idea to us, and we laughed about it because we were unsure what he meant by it at first.

“He then invited us down for a water tasting and that’s when we realised that water isn’t just water and explained he thinks there is an exciting new market.”

According to Doran, water possesses distinct flavours – determined by the quantity of total dissolved solids (TDS) present in the liquid.

These solids comprise minerals that have been naturally absorbed from the earth into the water prior to extraction from its source.

TDS measurements span from extremely low between 0 to 50 to exceptionally high at 1,200 plus – he maintains the optimal hydration level sits between 100 and 200.

However, the water menu concept was delayed when Joe and Gaëlle welcomed their first child in 2023 and Gaëlle fell pregnant again in 2024. They decided to push forward with the concept only in January this year.

He shared: “During that period we had been wanting to give it a go having a water menu.

“We have noticed in the last 18 months a lot of people don’t drink as much and are looking for an alternative to alcohol.

“With Gaëlle also having a little one and being pregnant, also breastfeeding, there is a limit to what she can drink.

“We thought there was space for it so why not?”.

They then reached out to Doran in January this year to assemble a water menu.

The menu underwent three revisions over the months he was crafting it.

Doran also reveals he selected from hundreds of bottles to curate the perfect menu.

For still water, Doran opted for the sharp, dry, and metallic-tasting super low TDS water in Icelandic Glacier Water (£12).

He then selected still Crag Spring Water (£5), which has no taste but a smooth, creamy, silky mouth feel for mid-range TDS. He then picked brand 22 from La Rioja, in Spain (£11) for the high range for its smooth mouthfeel and delicate mineral taste.

Then for sparkling, he chose the delicate and sweet Vichy Celastin (£9) and the delicate and salty The Palace of Vidago (£19) for high TDS.

He selected sparkling Crag (£5.50), which has no taste but a smooth, creamy, and silky mouth feel for mid-range TDS.

And for low TDS, he opted for Lauretana (£12), which has a sharp and dry mouthfeel with a metallic taste.

Doran revealed: “I had been working on a water menu for the last three or four years trying to get a restaurant to pick it up but it has been really difficult.

“People thought it was a joke and a gimmick but it was exciting when La Popote took me on.

“What I have done is put together a quality range of interesting water.

“It is a selection showing off the different TDS water has to offer.

“They all have different tastes, mouth feels, and offer a different perspective on dining at a restaurant.

“It will elevate the dining experience for non-drinkers like myself and millions of others who aren’t interested in a wine menu.

“Being able to choose a water with a story, something special and unique that you couldn’t just get from a shop, is elevating that experience.

“The water will be served in a wine glass, water will be put on a stage, and will be shown respect.

“I could have put hundreds on the menu all for different reasons.

“It was really hard to narrow it down and I feel bad about leaving some out.

“The menu will hopefully grow and expand.”

La Popote’s water menu will be fully launched next Friday (August 22).

Dining and Cooking