In an unlikely yet vibrant corner of Botafogo, surrounded by trendy and bustling bars, Sult has stood strong for five years with its modern Italian cuisine, served in a laid-back setting that perfectly matches the neighborhood’s vibe. When co-owner and self-taught chef Nelson Soares moved to Cascais, Portugal, in 2023 — where he opened a new branch — the kitchen reins were handed over to Julia Lottus, a talented chef who previously worked at Cipriani, and what a welcome addition she has been. From the semi-open kitchen at the back — an industrial-style space that opens onto the street — Chef Julia masterfully orchestrates the ballet of dishes, spotlighting fresh handmade pasta prepared in-house and blending classic recipes with subtle Brazilian touches. An absolute hit, the slow-cooked meat lasagna, topped with a golden crust and finished with an indulgent grana padano fonduta and a crunchy breadcrumb farofa (R$ 85), comes in a generous portion, perfect for sharing. Other standouts include pirarucu fillet with tucupi and jambu risotto (R$ 98), along with pasta dishes such as the fragrant cavatelli with crab (R$ 77) and tagliolini with Sicilian lemon sauce and diced shrimp (R$ 79). Before that, start with the colorful scallop crudo with pomegranate leche de tigre (R$ 75) or the cacio e pepe mushrooms (R$ 72), grilled and served with grana padano and pecorino romano fonduta. For dessert, the spotlight goes to the Tiramisult (R$ 32), featuring house-made savoiardi, mascarpone cream, coffee, and cocoa. The wine list deserves its own chapter: over 200 labels, many of them displayed on the walls. Nearby, run by the same owners, you’ll find Tão Longe, Tão Perto, a natural wine bar where wines are served on tap — creating a lively back-and-forth between the two spots. Botafogo: Rua Fernandes Guimarães 77 (96910-1375). Tue to Thu, from 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. Fri, from 12 p.m. to midnight. Sun, from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.
The meat lasagna from Sult: Best Italian of 2025. — Foto: Rodrigo Azevedo
In 2020, the restaurant gained new vigor by relocating to the Hotel Fasano in Ipanema after nearly two decades at its iconic corner location at Aníbal de Mendonça and Redentor streets. The sophisticated yet welcoming setting — with a veranda facing the waterfront, a bar with high stools, and a dining room adorned with wood, copper, and bricks — attracts everyone from executives to celebrities. Leading the kitchen is Chef Luigi Moressa, who was part of the opening of the first Rio location. The Fasano Group’s Italian tradition is evident right from the appetizers, such as the vitello tonnato (R$115), thinly sliced veal with tuna sauce and capers. The main course features the flavorful veal ravioli (R$155) served with mushroom sauce, and the spaghetti carbonara (R$155), prepared with parmesan, egg yolk, and guanciale, executed rigorously with no adaptations. Tender and juicy, the lamb shank (R$222, pictured), slowly roasted with potatoes and baby artichokes, falls apart at the fork. The meal concludes with balanced elegance with the tiramisu made with ladyfinger biscuits, coffee, mascarpone cream, and cocoa powder, and the mascarpone and strawberry mille-feuille (R$65 each). Ipanema: Hotel Fasano. Av. Vieira Souto 80 (3202-4030). Mon to Wed, from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. Thu, from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to midnight. Fri and Sat, from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 1 a.m. Sun, from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Family furniture, old photographs, and objects sourced from Chef Nello Garaventa’s and his partner Lara Atamian’s travels decorate the cozy 1940s mansion. In the center of the dining room, the open kitchen allows diners to watch the team’s ballet and reveals the wood-fired oven where many of the dishes are prepared. The fixed menu (R$223), which combines the chef’s childhood classics from Liguria with modern Italian cuisine, starts with a bread basket featuring sourdough and butter. Then, choose an appetizer, main course, and dessert (some with an additional charge) from options such as the must-try fried zucchini blossom stuffed with buffalo mozzarella and Cantabrian anchovies (R$7 extra), and the wood-fired golden gnocchi with buffalo burrata, roasted tomatoes, and basil (pictured). For an additional R$50, opt for the duck breast with grilled endives and corn cream. The rustic apple crostata and Belgian chocolate tart with hazelnut nougat and caramel vie for attention as desserts. Be sure to pay attention to the daily specials. Jardim Botânico: Rua Visconde de Carandaí 31 (99435-8386). Tue to Fri, from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sat, from 12:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sun, from 12:30 p.m. to 5 p.m.
The arrival of Executive Chef Michele Petenzi (formerly of Alloro) in June brought changes to the space in the beautiful garden of the early 20th-century mansion, initially opened as a gastropub, which is now solidifying its vocation as a restaurant. Completely revamped, the menu focuses on a more authentic Italian cuisine, with handmade bread and fresh pasta prepared in-house. To start, try the creamy polenta taragna with mushrooms and gorgonzola (R$48) or the eggplant parmesan with parmesan fondue (R$44). Classic recipes with traditional preparation are safe bets among the main courses, such as the spaghetti cacio e pepe (R$72) and the lasagna Bolognese (R$67) with slow-cooked ragu, tomato cream, demi-glace, and parmesan. The chef’s signature dish, the rib agnolotti with pangrattato (R$66), is worth the visit. To sweeten without excess, order the balanced tiramisu (R$32) with a hint of Marsala wine. Two other strong points continue to be Tai Barbin’s high-end mixology and cultural events and parties that take place in the mansion’s indoor area. Botafogo: Rua Martins Ferreira 60 (99795-6988). Mon to Fri, from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 1 a.m. Sat and Sun, from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 1 a.m.
In a discreet mansion in Jardim de Alah, the restaurant honors the tradition of Emilia-Romagna with a serious commitment to artisanal cuisine. Run by the Aleixo family — also behind the neighboring Anna, which focuses on seafood dishes — it is a reliable haven of Italian cuisine in the city. Everything is made in-house: freshly filled pasta, individual wood-fired pizzas, bread, sauces, desserts, and even ice creams prepared daily. The menu features regional classics, such as oven-baked green lasagna with Bolognese ragu (R$60.70) and the paglia e fieno with prosciutto, peas, and parmesan (R$51), along with tagliatelle Bolognese (R$58.50) and ricotta and spinach ravioli au gratin with parmesan sauce (R$57.50). Among the pizzas, try the sapore di Parma, with prosciutto and parmesan (R$53.90). To sweeten, try the mascarpone tart with red fruits (R$35.90) and the crunchy almond ice cream with caramel sauce (R$32.50). A member of the Italian Gastronomic Academy, the restaurant is faithful to its region of origin and the good practices of the old guard. But come prepared: the restaurant accepts no cards or Pix — only cash or check. Ipanema: Av. Epitácio Pessoa 204 (2512-6107). Mon to Thu, from 6 p.m. to midnight. Fri and Sat, from 6 p.m. to 1 a.m. Sun, from 12 p.m. to 11 p.m.
A bustling spot in Ipanema since its opening in 2021, the restaurant, which placed second in the cost-benefit category in this edition of the Rio Show Awards, is run by Elia Schramm, a Carioca born in the Italian part of Switzerland. The atmosphere is intimate, filled with carefully curated objects, many from the family. On the menu, which blends Italian tradition with some French techniques and contemporary touches, the chef mixes childhood memories and travels across Italy to create dishes such as Tuscan sausage croquettes with Dijon mustard (R$38), seared tuna with miso-passionfruit and pistachio (R$59), and crispy eggplant parmesan with burrata (R$39), which stand out at the beginning of the journey. The handmade pasta is the highlight: try the fresh pappardelle with 12-hour-cooked ragu (R$78) and the golden gnocchi with mushrooms and truffle (R$79), a local hit. Another tip is the seared tuna tataki, served with green pasta in tomato, capers, olives, and pepper sauce (R$112). For dessert, order the classic tiramisu (R$38) or the delicate pistachio and lemon choux pastry (R$41). Ipanema: Rua Barão da Torre 632 (99808-6496). Mon to Wed, from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. Thu, from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to midnight.
On a corner of Praça General Osório, the Italian address by the same partners behind the nearby Mercearia da Praça and Bodegón (awarded best cost-benefit this edition) and Tasca da Mercearia also maintains a laid-back vibe, with efficient recipes and inviting prices. In the cozy dining room and veranda, the setting is inspired by traditional trattorias of the Boot, as are the dishes. To start, a novelty is the carpaccio tonnato (R$44), with lightly grilled meat under anchovy aioli, grana padano shavings, capers, served with house focaccia. The pasta offerings have also been reinforced, such as the pappardelle stuffed with shrimp, Catupiry, and ricotta, in lemon sauce (R$69), and the potato gnocchi with truffled mushroom ragu (R$79). At night, rustic pizzas with long fermentation and airy crust take the stage, like the vegetarian (R$68), with tomato sauce, mozzarella mix, eggplant, teriyaki, grilled zucchini, confit tomato, and basil. The tiramisu (R$27) is served in a glass dish, for sharing. To accompany, the wine list features 60 labels, mostly Italian. Ipanema: Rua Jangadeiros 28 – Ipanema (3258-9540). Sun to Thu, from 11 a.m. to midnight. Fri and Sat, from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.
In the casual space adjacent to Chez Claude, with tables spread along the gallery in Leblon, Frenchman Claude Troisgros navigates with ease through the cuisine of his mother’s and grandmother’s homeland. Among the uncomplicated recipes, executed daily by Jessica Trindade, start with the tomato and goat cheese arancini (risotto balls) (R$42) or the creamy burrata with macadamia pesto (R$68). The journey can continue with brie risotto, Parma, and arugula (R$88) or with maccheroni (short tubular pasta) in cacio e pepe sauce, typical of Rome, with pecorino cheese and pepper, enhanced here with peas and a touch of gin (R$86). But don’t miss the board with the daily specials. In the end, it will be difficult to resist the tiramisu, a recipe by his late friend Alessandro Cucco, a celebrated chef who made history with Osteria Dell’Angolo in Ipanema. Leblon: Rua Conde de Bernadotte 26 (3579-1185). Tue and Wed, from 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Thu to Sat, from 6:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sun, from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.
Since 2012, the charming house in São Cristóvão has been drawing customers from other parts of the city with its well-executed Mediterranean recipes and prices that don’t break the bank. Born in Sardinia, Chef Silvio Podda prepares typical recipes from his native island, both from the coastal region, more focused on fish and seafood, and the interior, where meats and fresh pasta prevail. From the first section, the linguine porto junco combines shrimp, octopus, and arugula (R$68), and the fish of the day can be grilled and flambéed with white wine with fregola (a regional pasta similar to couscous), fish cubes, and shrimp (R$110 or R$180 for two). The lamb alla vernaccia is cooked in regional white wine and served with mushroom risotto (R$108). To continue the journey, end with the seadas, semolina pastry filled with cheese and orange and served with honey and pecorino cheese ice cream (R$32). A few weeks ago, Podda opened an adjacent shop, La Favorita, offering pasta, bread, and sweets made there. He also maintains the Philia Sarda wine shop in Tijuca. São Cristóvão: Rua São Cristóvão 405 (3042-8049/9835-49113). Tue to Sat, from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sun, from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.
The brick walls bring the coziness of a warm home — and the menu embraces any state of mind. Casa Tua functions as two restaurants in one, with independent kitchens: the Cucina, for more elaborate desires, and the Forneria, more informal, with pizzas and sandwiches. What unites the two houses is the precise service, led by Atagerdes Alves, partner of Alexandre Accioly in the venture and an experienced figure in the dining room. At Cucina, the goat cheese soufflé (R$88) is a comforting classic. The fresh stuffed pasta is a safe choice, like the duck ravioli in aromatic orange sauce (R$144). To sweeten, avoid the traditional tiramisu (R$59) and try the dessert of puff pastry with caramelized apples and cinnamon ice cream (R$55). Whatever the dish, the wine cellar with about two thousand bottles always offers a good label for pairing. At Forneria, opt for the pizzas with high, crispy crusts — the margherita (R$78) is enough to leave anyone happy, as if returning home. Barra: Rua Érico Veríssimo 190 (3030-0010). Mon, from 7 p.m. to midnight. Tue to Thu, from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. Fri, from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 1 a.m. Sun, from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.
With 25 years of tradition in Leme, some dishes at D’amici have already become signatures — from appetizers like asparagus with grana padano and truffle butter (R$65) to desserts such as the mille-feuille filled with pastry cream and red fruit sauce (R$42). Four years ago, the Italian culinary classics also conquered Barra, in a more relaxed setting, with a winter garden inviting leisurely meals. During the week, the branch offers an executive menu (R$89), with appetizer, main course, and dessert, renewed each month. Besides the variety of pasta and risottos, the menu shines with excellent seafood options. Among the best sellers are the grilled fillet of stone bass in lemon and rosemary sauce, with oven-baked potatoes (R$169), and the grilled slipper lobster with lemon risotto (R$179). Barra: Rua Alessio Venturi s/n (99001-7774) Tue to Sat, from 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sun, from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. Leme: Rua Antônio Vieira 18 (2541-4477) Mon to Sat, from 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sun, from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.
For over three decades (with some turbulence and a makeover in 2019 that brought it back on track) dedicated to traditional Mediterranean Italian cuisine, without inventions, on the Leme waterfront. A yellow scooter decorates the charming facade, filled with plants. Don’t miss the couvert (R$45), which includes vegetable fritters, well-seasoned zucchini and eggplant preserves, roasted peppers, pâté, olives, and bread. The spaghetti with clams in white wine (R$132) shares the title of local favorites with the veal ossobuco with saffron rice (R$163), but be sure to try the grilled langoustines, meaty and juicy (R$178). To close, the zabaione (R$48), a creamy dessert made with egg yolks and Marsala wine, is unique in the city and arrives at the table warm. Leme: Av. Atlântica 514 (3851-8888). Sun to Thu, from 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. Fri and Sat, from 12 p.m. to midnight.
For 31 years in Ipanema, the restaurant run by the couple Paolo Neroni and Conceição Ghezzi has maintained a branch in Barra since 2021. Specializing in Italian cuisine with Mediterranean touches, the house offers a variety of fresh pasta and seafood dishes. Among the appetizers, the artisanal white pizza appears in versions such as garlic with rosemary (R$25), parmesan (R$27), and onion with olive oil (R$26), great for accompanying the crunchy salad with warm octopus (R$96) or the well-seasoned fish carpaccio (R$79). A menu classic, the spaghetti alla Neroni (R$102) — named after the owners’ surname — comes with shrimp and peppers in garlic and oil. A master of risottos, the chef suggests the primavera (R$92), with vegetables, white truffle oil, and parmesan, or the seafood risotto (R$106). Another special dish is the fish of the day in a coarse salt crust with spicy potatoes (R$159), a rare preparation on Carioca menus. Among the desserts, the papaya cream with cassis liqueur (R$44) stands out, as well as the trilogy for the undecided: tiramisu, Ovomaltine brigadeiro, and cheese ice cream with guava sauce (R$48). Barra: Av. das Américas 3.301, bloco 4, loja 111 (3226-6410). Tue to Sat, from 11:30 a.m. to 11:45 p.m. Sun, from 11:30 a.m. to 9:45 p.m. Ipanema: Av. Henrique Dumont 62 (2259-3718). Tue to Sat, from 11:30 a.m. to midnight. Sun, from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Helmed by Venetian chef Rudy Bovo for the past seven years, the restaurant has brought a slice of his Italian traditions to Leblon. The elegant setting exudes a cozy atmosphere, with abundant tables inspired by memories of his homeland. The menu bets on classic recipes, featuring handmade pastas, risottos, and polentas that travel across various regions of Italy. Among the starters, highlights include vitello tonnato — chilled, thinly sliced veal with a tuna sauce (R$ 112) — and eggplant parmigiana (R$ 92). Warm, house-baked breads like focaccia and Italian loaves always arrive fresh to the table. For mains, options include lamb ravioli with cacio e pepe (R$ 112), duck risotto with caramelized pear (R$ 118), and oven-roasted fish with tomatoes and black olives (R$ 170), alongside fresh lasagna with veal ragù (R$ 134) and polentas served in different styles, such as with Tuscan sausage ragù (R$ 109). For dessert, the signature Regina (R$ 318, serves two) is a showstopper prepared tableside: a 70% chocolate sphere filled with ice cream and fruit, cracked open before your eyes, accompanied by other small treats. The wine list gathers 120 labels from various countries (40% from Italy). Leblon: Av. General San Martin 1011 (2259-7696/98122-3944). Mon–Sat, 6pm–11:50pm. Sun, noon–11pm.
Now under the direction of Roman-born chef Marco Renzetti, from the Michelin-starred Fame Osteria (also part of the Alife Nino group), this São Paulo-born house introduces dishes that honor seasonality with an authorial twist. The menu breathes freshness and personality into classics: the supplì (R$ 38), a risotto croquette with melting mozzarella, is pure comfort — as is the saffron risotto with braised veal ossobuco in white wine (R$ 98). Another highlight is the brasato di manzo (R$ 98), succulent beef braised in red wine and veal stock, served with creamy mashed potatoes. For pasta lovers, there’s gratinéed rigatoni with ragù, béchamel, and grana padano (R$ 78) and agnolotti piemontesi (R$ 94), fresh pasta stuffed with roasted meat and finished with butter, sage, and hazelnuts. To finish, the Delizia al Limone di Sorrento (R$ 40), created for the house’s 10th anniversary, layers lemon and mascarpone creams with citrus sorbet and pistachio crunch. At Rio Design Barra, the Ninetto Trattoria offers a more traditional, pared-down menu. Ipanema: Rua Barão da Torre 490. Mon–Thu, noon–4pm & 7pm–midnight. Fri–Sat, noon–midnight. Sun, noon–4:45pm.
Spanning 3,500 square meters, this is a true culinary amusement park. Conceived by Marcelo Torres (behind multi-award-winning Giuseppe Grill), the mega-complex houses five concepts, including a café with coffee greenhouses and an in-house roasting system that pipes beans through ceiling tubes to the grinders. At the restaurant Nolita NY (an offshoot of Nolita Oven & Bar at VillageMall), the Italian-American menu serves family-sized dishes to share. Think crispy pork belly with ribs (R$ 136 half; R$ 326 family-size) and marinated chicken (R$ 68 single; R$ 148 whole), both slow-roasted on the girarrosto. Pastas include the Lasanha Manoela, layered with shrimp and creamy Catupiry sauce (R$ 89 and R$ 398). Pizzas come square-cut, round, or with stuffed crusts, such as the classic Margherita with buffalo mozzarella, tomato sauce, and basil (R$ 78; R$ 96; R$ 118). At the Fantástica Fábrica de Doces, guests can watch the making of whimsical desserts like the Marshmallow Magic — a towering vanilla milkshake topped with cotton candy, caramel drizzle, and a riot of candies and lollipops (R$ 78). Barra: New York City Center (99512-5044). Mon–Thu, noon–11pm. Fri–Sat, noon–midnight. Sun, noon–10pm.
Fresh pastas made with Italian flour and finished to order are the star of this Tijuca hotspot. Launched as a delivery-only brand in 2019, Orzo is now preparing for expansion into a larger house across the street from its current location. In the meantime, enjoy dishes like Parmesan and mozzarella arancini (R$ 37 for five pieces). Signature mains include green lasagna stuffed with a blend of beef and pork, served with Parmesan fondue (R$ 78), and linguine alla matriciana (R$ 57), with bacon sautéed in white wine and tomato sauce. To finish, choose between rabanada brûlée with strawberry jam and whipped cream or a creamy chocolate tart with cashew nuts and crème anglaise (R$ 34 each). Tijuca: Rua Mariz e Barros 1146 (97590-1000). Mon–Sat, 11:30am–11pm. Sun, noon–5pm.
At chef Nello Garaventa’s modern trattoria — a younger sibling to Grado and last year’s category champion — the focus is on handmade pastas in rare shapes and cuts of meat that require time but reward with flavor. Starters include shredded tripe parmigiana in creamy tomato sauce with Parmesan (R$ 57) and grilled veal sweetbreads served with riso al salto — a crispy risotto with mushrooms, endives, and rooster combs in a dark Marsala sauce (R$ 122). Less daring suggestions include green tortelli stuffed with pumpkin, Taleggio fondue, and spinach (R$ 98) and hand-rolled tagliatelle with langoustines, scallops, and asparagus (R$ 165). For dessert, crema zabaione with red berries and lingua di gatto cookies (R$ 46). Botafogo: Rua Conde de Irajá 115 (396826-9998). Tue–Wed, 7pm–11pm. Fri–Sat, 12:30pm–4:30pm & 7pm–11pm. Sun, 12:30pm–5pm.
This modern Italian spot, with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls adorned with jazz photography (and a matching soundtrack), paved the way for the Gitan Group’s other ventures like Posì and nearby Glória. The menu opens with fuss-free bites like meatballs in tomato sauce with grana padano and basil (R$ 44). Then comes rigatoni all’amatriciana (R$ 64), with a mildly spicy tomato sauce and guanciale, and filet mignon with golden baroa gnocchi and a mix of truffled mushrooms (R$ 112). For dessert, profiteroles filled with fior di latte gelato and dried fruits, drenched in caramel sauce (R$ 46). You can’t go wrong. Ipanema: Rua Barão da Torre 348 (99757-9160). Mon–Thu, noon–midnight. Fri–Sat, noon–1am. Sun, noon–11pm.
An irreverent, laid-back take on Italy — that’s the vibe at this spot from Edu Araújo and Jonas Aisengart (the duo behind Quartinho and Chanchada), now four years strong. The décor sets the tone with paintings, religious relics, and bathrooms resembling confessionals, while the menu has been elevated with the arrival of chef Matheus Zanchini from award-winning Borgo Mooca (SP), a master of wood-fired cooking. Nearly everything passes through the flames: from couve-flor alla fiorentina (R$ 66), roasted cauliflower with spinach leaves topped with béchamel and pumpkin-seed muesli, to the tornedor (R$ 108), a thick filet served with brioche crumbs, fried gnocchi, and demi-glace. Pasta lovers will swoon over the house-made pappardelle with Bolognese ragù (beef and pork) simmered for eight hours in tomato sauce and finished with plenty of Parmesan (R$ 68). At night, try the oval-shaped pizzettas like the one with provolone, fior di latte, gorgonzola, grana padano, and caramelized onion compote (R$ 58). To finish, Sicilian lemon tart (R$ 38) with a delicate almond-butter crust, lemon cream, and toasted meringue. Don’t skip the cocktail list — the Pope Sour (R$ 38) blends bourbon, Amaretto, tangerine liqueur, Fernet, and sour mix. Ipanema: Rua Joana Angélica 47 (99602-2641). Tue–Thu, 6pm–midnight. Fri, 6pm–1am. Sat, noon–1am. Sun, noon–11pm.
Inspired by the Amalfi Coast, this restaurant occupies a sun-drenched house with a veranda and umbrellas for that Mediterranean vibe. The kitchen focuses on wood-grilled seafood, with dishes like black spaghetti with grilled squid, pepperoncino, and a crunchy ink-and-bottarga finish (R$ 128), and the Viaggio a Murano — grilled slipper lobster with pumpkin mousseline (R$ 138). From the land, rabbit ragù in wine with pasta and charred broccoli (R$ 89). The Mozza Bar upstairs serves focaccias paired with toppings like stracciatella with tuna and truffle honey or eggplant with white balsamic (R$ 44). Desserts range from the Tazza Posì, a medley of fresh strawberries, whipped cream, white chocolate shards, meringue, and berry coulis, to molten chocolate served warm with mascarpone ice cream (R$ 54 each). Downstairs, the bar shakes up drinks like the Isabella (gin, mango sorbet, pomegranate, sake) and a smoked Negroni Secretto infused with jabuticaba wood (R$ 43 each). The wine list leans Italian but explores other regions as well. Ipanema: Rua Aníbal de Mendonça 158 (99932-7001). Mon–Thu, noon–midnight. Fri–Sat, noon–1am. Sun, noon–11pm.
Tucked away in a small lane near Shopping da Gávea, this rustic trattoria opened in March, founded by the team behind the now-closed Vicco on the same street. From the classic Italian oven, the local star, come long-fermentation Neapolitan-style pizzas with airy, blistered crusts, like the house pie with tomato sauce, stracciatella, arugula, tomato, and grana padano (R$ 77). Start with crispy rigatoni — breaded and stuffed with mushrooms and cheese, served with paprika aioli (R$ 35 for four pieces). For mains, potato gnocchi with mushrooms baked in the pizza oven with Parmesan fondue and pangrattato (R$ 72) shares the spotlight with shrimp tortelli in Sicilian lemon cream (R$ 85). To end, hibiscus panna cotta with pistachio praline and strawberry compote (R$ 29). Gávea: Villa 90, Rua Marquês de São Vicente 90. Sun–Thu, noon–11pm. Fri–Sat, noon–midnight.
After parting ways with Ella Pizzeria, chef Pedro Siqueira debuts a new project with two locations. In Leblon, he transformed his former Massa + Ella into a modern Italian trattoria. The welcoming space serves hand-rolled pastas, naturally fermented Neapolitan pizzas, and a cozy vibe. Highlights include gôndole stuffed with pear and apple in gorgonzola sauce with nut crunch (R$ 74) and double ravioli with shrimp and Catupiry (R$ 89). Among the pizzas, the Amalfi (R$ 74) features buffalo scamorza, arugula, sun-dried tomato, and grana padano. At lunch, a tempting prix-fixe offers starter, main (such as tagliolini with seafood in a moqueca cream with cilantro), and dessert for R$ 69. The Botafogo branch (currently delivery-only) has a more laid-back approach, doubling as a market with fresh pasta, sandwiches, and takeaway pizzas. Leblon: Rua Dias Ferreira 617 (3985-8191). Mon to Thu, from noon to5pm & 6pm to 11pm. Fri, from noon to5pm & from 6pm to midnight. Sat, from noon to midnight. Sun, from noon to10pm.
Dining and Cooking