Seeing caviar and potato chips listed as a $175 snack on a menu sets off all kinds of alarm bells in our heads. Camphor, in the Arts District, might lean into expensive restaurant gimmicks at times, but that’s all a distraction. This restaurant not only airs out any clichés around stuffy French dinners—it gives them a whole new perspective.
You’ll certainly find the attention to detail and rehearsed service expected for an anniversary dinner. But despite the warm towels and olive oil-washed martinis served to you on a silver platter, Camphor is still laidback enough to show up in jeans for an excellent bar burger or their weekly $65 steak frites party. In the end, the bill will confirm that, yes, Camphor is a once-in-a-while kind of meal, but at its core, it’s just a great bistro.
South Asian touches are sprinkled throughout the menu, done subtly enough to feel less like reinventions and more like refreshing chord changes in the French restaurant melody. Torpedo-shaped chicken ballotine is filled with moussed thigh meat gently seasoned with masala, and a daal-inspired lamb and lentil course comes topped with a cloud of chickpea foam that adds flavor as much as it does flair. Only at Camphor could these share a table with sole à la grenobloise and onion tartines bathed in caramel-like stock, and not give you whiplash. It’s still fancy French food, though, so don’t expect to get away with a bill that’s less than $150 per person.
Food RundownRadicchio Salad
There are many elements to this punchy chicory salad, but they all end up singing kumbaya together. The bitter lettuce and sweet passionfruit vinaigrette balance each other out, sourdough croutons add tang and crunch, and the parmesan is all the salt the dressing needs.
photo credit: Cara Harman
Onion Tartine
French onion soup in the form of a toast. Yes, it’s a lot, but it’s also spectacular, so practice sharing and split this appetizer so you have room for a few more things.
photo credit: Cara Harman
Scallop Demi Lune
A very chic way to eat scallops. The tiny pasta half-moons are al dente, and the silky beurre blanc sauce has a delicious vinegary tang. The $42 price tag is steep even for scallop-filled pasta, but if you can get past the sticker shock, you won’t regret it.
photo credit: Cara Harman
Le Burger
Warning: if you’re planning on ordering the delicious burger, don’t plan on ordering much else. The thick patty is a blend of beef and duck, the cheese is a mild-ish gouda, and melted duck fat is brushed onto the housemade brioche. We need some fresh air just thinking about it.
photo credit: Cara Harman
Chicken
You might think there’s no new way to eat chicken in LA. Cue this must-order that gets creative with every part of the bird. The golden skin acts as a snappy casing for the ballotine, which is filled like a sausage with pureed thigh meat turned into a velvety mousse seasoned with masala. The sweet-tangy agrodolce sauce on top ties it all together and tastes like something between balsamic and Thanksgiving gravy.
Marzipan Meyer Lemon Ice
After all that butter, duck, and onion stock, dessert calls for something, er, lighter. This elegant snow cone is the palate cleanser you need. The ice is citrusy and floral without pushing the marzipan ice cream into too-sweet territory.
photo credit: Cara Harman
Dining and Cooking