I love carveries and Sunday roasts, but I did wonder how this would work in bright Mediterranean sunlight in a very soignée brasserie designed by Franco-Mexican interior designer Hugo Toro. Christy awaited me with a Bloody Mary, and so I joined her, taking a sweeping look around the room to see that many of the customers were from the Middle East, a large number were also speaking Russian, and then there was a quartet of Barbara Cartland lookalikes and, well, us.
Our Sunday roast was pleasant, with nice slices of rare prime rib escorted by roasted potatoes and vegetables, the latter more French in execution than English, and Yorkshire pudding, with English mustard and horseradish sauce being available. Eton mess and lemon curd cake were a treat. The wine list runs heavily to very expensive Bordeaux, but overall, a good address if you find yourself in Monaco and missing Bournemouth.
N.B. They serve breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner here, so if you find yourself desperate for a good fry-up in Monte Carlo, this address delivers.
Marlow, Place Princesse Gabriella, Monaco
+377 98 06 14 00. Average €75.
www.montecarlosbm.com/fr/restaurant/marlow
France Today Magazine
Dining and Cooking