A small country that rounds the northwest corner of Africa and juts northward just nine miles from the coast of Spain, Morocco is a fusion of European, African and Middle Eastern influences. Stroll through the bazaars and watch as Moroccans sip their mint tea, conversing in French and listening to the Spanish guitar as it echoes through the majestic open air markets. Breathe in the aroma of the couscous and tajine stews that have been served for centuries.
At a cafe just off Main Street in Northampton, owner Hafid Assab has concocted a menu inspired by the cuisine of his native Morocco. His restaurant, Mosaic Cafe, offers Moroccan- and Mediterranean-style dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Mosaic is nothing fancy; the menu is written on a chalkboard above the counter where you order and the specials board is a collage of laminated note cards. Assab strives to keep his food affordable; the most expensive item on the menu is $12.95. Order your meal, grab a number and wait for it to come to you.
The key to good Moroccan cooking is the spices. In the five months I spent living in Morocco’s capital, Rabat, I watched as cumin, black pepper, saffron, chili powder, turmeric, ginger and cinnamon showered down in perfect accord onto just about everything I ate. At Mosaic, even my avocado salad, served with artichoke hearts, sunflower seeds, roasted green peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers and olives, was sprinkled with spices that complemented the vinaigrette dressing. The grilled lamb fillets in the lamb salad were tender and nicely seasoned as well.
Lunch is my favorite meal at Mosaic, with a variety of soups, salads, sandwiches and crepes to choose from. One of the more popular dishes is the Crepe Marseillaise, a crepe served with your choice of grilled chicken, lamb sausage or ground beef, with tomatoes, mushrooms, onions and Swiss cheese. Another is the soup served in a crepe bowl and drizzled with almond sauce. There are many fish and vegetarian options, such as the trout salad or the eggplant sandwich.
For dinner, the goat and lamb stews are solid choices. Both are cooked in broth with plenty of vegetables and served with rice or a baguette. To get the full Moroccan experience, try using chunks of bread held in your right hand to eat the stew. I would avoid the seafood paella, the only dish at Mosaic I have been disappointed with.
On a weekend morning, one of my favorite dishes is the sundried tomato omelet: sundried tomatoes, mushrooms, onions, goat cheese and home fries on the side. The French toast with cinnamon and honey is also a delicious option if you’re feeling less adventurous.
An absolute must here is the Moroccan mint tea, either iced or hot. This green tea loaded with sugar and fresh mint leaves is the cornerstone of every gathering in Morocco. At Mosaic, you will be served hot tea in an authentic silver tea pot and painted glasses. You can also choose from fresh carrot juice, smoothies and milkshakes.
Mosaic offers both indoor and outdoor dining. Bring your own bottle of wine and Assab will provide you with glasses and a corkscrew. If you have room for dessert, the pastries displayed on the counter—baklava, bread pudding topped with raisins, and classic Moroccan cookies called fekkaz and ghriba—are all made in-house.
Assab opened Mosaic Cafe just over a year ago after working as manager of his brother’s restaurant, Amanouz Cafe, on Main Street. Assab says he tries to bring out the Mediterranean element at Mosaic while Amanouz serves classic Moroccan dishes. In Casablanca, where he grew up, Assab helped his mother in the kitchen on Fridays as she cooked mountains of her famous couscous for their family of nine. At Mosaic, Assab ensures that the food lives up to the same standard.
Mosaic Caf?, 78 Masonic Street, Northampton, (413)-585-1155.
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Dining and Cooking