It used to be the centrepiece of the French day — a social institution that propped up a flourishing restaurant trade vital to the nation’s economic health.
Now the three-course meal appears to be on verge of disappearing as customers ditch starters, and sometimes desserts as well, in an attempt to save time and money.
A study by Gira Conseil, France’s leading food industry consultancy, found that only 14 per cent of meals eaten outside the home involved the traditional formula of starter, main course and dessert in the first eight months of this year.
By contrast, three quarters of French restaurant meals followed that classic pattern 15 years ago, according to Bernard Boutboul, Gira’s managing director. His survey highlights the difficulties facing the sector, which generated sales of €79 billion (£67 billion) in 2009.
“The destruction of the three-course meal has been phenomenal in such a short period of time,” Mr Boutboul said. “The change is very rapid for a country like France that is attached to traditions, or at least which used to be attached to traditions.
“In fact, traditions are being lost because we no longer value our culinary heritage.”
He said that the modern trend involved skipping l’entrée and beginning with le plat, particularly at lunchtime when less than 4 per cent of meals eaten out are now three-course.
The spread of the two-course meal (and increasingly the one-course meal) comes amid signs that contemporary French restaurant customers are as concerned with their wallets as with their palates.
In the first eight months of this year, the average diner spent 5 per cent less in traditional restaurants and 3 per cent less in fast-food outlets than in the same period in 2009. The average bill last year was €7.74 (£6.60) per head, according to Gira.
“We are now facing a restaurant consumer who is permanently looking for low prices, clever purchases and the opportunity to seize a promotional offer,” Mr Boutboul said. “This behaviour is generally dragging the sector downmarket.” He said that the three-course meal was “too long, too rich and too expensive” for a nation that now spends 32 minutes at the table on average, compared with 90 minutes in 1975.
Bistro owners say that one factor is is the arrival of the 35-hour working week a decade ago, which has led to shorter but more intense days in the office. The result has been an end to the long lunch break, when diners could start with oeuf mayonnaise, continue with a steak tartare and round off the meal with a crème brûlée.
Restaurateurs also blame the 35-hour week for cutting French disposable income.
However, there is some encouraging news. Figures show that the number of people eating in traditional restaurants rose by 9 per cent this year, compared with last. The increase reflects a government decision last year to reduce VAT in restaurants from 19.6 per cent to 5.5 per cent, which led to a 3 per cent cut in prices.
Dining and Cooking