CBD restaurant to close after 13 years

From wine bar to upmarket bistro, this elegant French spot bids farewell after 13 years of dining. But its operators are already embarking on another project, with a new venue set to open in spring.

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One of Sydney’s most prized restaurants, the two chefs’ hatted Monopole, is set to close its doors on Saturday, September 6.

A particularly tough winter trade has been gruelling for many Sydney restaurants, but co-owner Brent Savage, whose Bentley Restaurant Group includes Monopole in its stable, blamed the closure on the end of a lease at the restaurant, which overlooks Australia Square.

Monopole’s French makeover, with linen tablecloths and flickering candles.Dion Georgopoulos

Savage said this year’s CBD restaurant trade felt more optimistic than last year, but confirmed rumours – swirling for months – that the Monopole site had been sounding out new operators. He is unsure of its future direction, however.

“We looked at all our options,” Savage said.

After eight years in its original Potts Point location, Monopole moved to the CBD in late 2020, later shifting from a wine bar focus to a French-leaning venue last year. “We got a good review, I feel quite proud of what we’ve achieved,” Savage said.

But the closure isn’t the only news for the group, which is one of the most expansive and successful restaurant operations in Sydney. It will double down on its CBD restaurant openings King Clarence and Eleven Barrack with another new venue – Watermans – to open at Barangaroo in spring.

From left: Nick Hildebrandt, Darryl Martin and Brent Savage will open Watermans in Barangaroo.

Darryl Martin, the former owner-chef at Barzaari in Marrickville, will lead the Watermans kitchen. “We’re massive fans of Darryl from his Barzaari days,” Savage said.

Pointing to Martin’s labne with salted cucumber as a dish that will make its way onto the Watermans opening menu, Savage said other dishes they’ve been working on include warm hummus with green zhoug; pickled watermelon and raw tuna salad with sumac; whole roasted John Dory with chermoula; and pomegranate-glazed slow-cooked lamb shoulder with pickled radishes and black lime.

Savage stressed the restaurant start-up won’t be a carbon copy of Barzaari. “It’ll be Darryl’s repertoire with a little of our finesse,” Savage said.

The 120-seat restaurant will slide into the recently completed One Sydney Harbour development at Barangaroo, a precinct where the Bentley crew has plenty of experience, having operated the now-closed Cirrus Dining nearby until 2024.

Monopole’s duck breast, with crisp skin and rosy meat, and an orange-scented glaze.Dion Georgopoulos

The restaurant group isn’t ruling out a return for Monopole. “If it’s the right site, never say never,” Savage said.

In a joint statement, he and business partner Nick Hildebrandt said that the team were proud of their achievements at Monopole, both in the original Potts Point location and CBD.

“An enormous amount of talent has graced both the kitchen and the floor,” the statement said.

“Monopole was a ground-breaking wine bar when we opened it and has always pushed the envelope, holding two hats for 10 years and winning multiple awards for its wine list.”