On a stretch of Washington Boulevard where old storefronts bear the marks of past re-inventions, a new arrival is promising something at once worldly and familiar: a proper Italian deli.
The Italian Deli Co., which opened its doors last week, is the latest venture from restaurateur Gary Chaglasyan — a veteran whose career has spanned from Glendale to southern Spain and back again.
For decades, Chaglasyan was in the business of exporting American dining abroad, running Chili’s and Johnny Rockets franchises across Europe and Eastern Europe.
Now, in a reversal, he has returned home to import a slice of Italy. “I spent summers there and fell in love with the rituals — espresso in a ceramic cup, a piadina folded on the piazza,” he said. “I’m not Italian by blood, but I am in spirit.”
The Italian Deli Co., which officially opens on Thursday, is neither a nostalgic red-sauce joint nor a fussy fine-dining room.
Instead, it’s modeled after the all-day eateries of Milan and Manhattan: part delicatessen, part trattoria, and wholly designed for everyday life.
A display case offers cold cuts, cheeses, and freshly baked bread.
Tables await on the sidewalk.
And in the back, an Italian-born chef named Enzo turns out pastas, truffle pinsa, and shrimp fra diavolo.
Coffee, however, is the quiet centerpiece. Chaglasyan has gone to lengths to source Caffè Vergnano, a 140-year-old Italian roaster little known outside connoisseur circles.
“It’s not about gimmicks,” he said. “It’s about doing something simple the right way. If you sit here, your coffee comes in a ceramic cup. Just like Italy.”
The soft opening has drawn steady foot traffic and a wave of neighborhood goodwill.
“People were stopping in, thanking us for opening,” Chaglasyan said. “It felt like the community was ready.”
This deli fills a gap — a place where a construction worker can grab an espresso at 8 a.m., and a couple can share wine and pasta at night, without anyone ever breaking character.
For Chaglasyan, that balance is the point.
“We didn’t want to be too old-school,” he said. “It should feel fun. And it should feel like Italy.”
The Italian Deli Co., is at 1615 E Washington Blvd, Pasadena, CA. (626) 345-5300. www.theitaliandeli.co.
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Dining and Cooking