There’s only one person who could gather the biggest names in Argentine wine, such as Susana Balbo, Laura Catena, Alejandra Sejanovich and dozens of other luminaries, on a Saturday afternoon in Buenos Aires. That person is sommelier Paz Levinson.
Argentina’s leading light in sommellerie, Paz is one of the world’s most influential figures when it comes to communicating wine. She is an inspiration — and not only for a new generation of Argentine sommeliers who have followed in her footsteps over the past 15 years. From her base in Paris, she leads the wine programme for chef Anne-Sophie Pic’s prestigious eight-Michelin-starred restaurant empire, both in France and beyond its borders.
Studious and eloquent, knowledgeable and poetic, Paz’s talent and passion for wine first came to public light when she won Argentina’s best sommelier contest in 2010 — a feat she repeated four years later with a brilliant display of expertise. In 2015, she was named the best sommelier of the Americas and went on to represent her country in the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale’s stringent competition, which was held in Mendoza for the first time.
Paz Levinson. Photo: Tom Richardson
Although she failed to reach the last three, and thereby the final, the sound of shattered glassware and broken hearts reverberated around Mendoza when — the winner finally revealed — it was also announced that she had in fact ranked fourth in the world. Argentina had been robbed the rare possibility — as scarce as a Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grand Cru 1945 — of Bariloche-born Paz competing in front of a supportive and vocal home audience.
Paz and goodwill
But we shan’t dwell on that. For the past 10 years, Paz has tirelessly shone the spotlight on Argentina’s terroir, winemakers and elixirs. Not just in France, the cradle of wine and one of the hardest markets to conquer, but also in Switzerland, Hong Kong, Dubai and Japan, where palates are extremely demanding. She’s also diversified to become a critic after being appointed regional chair of the prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards.
One of her pet projects is taking Argentine winemakers and producers to those most demanding wine drinkers. Some years ago, Paz began curating Argentina Reloaded, a global pop-up tasting event, conceived as an independent project allowing her to choose labels of her liking. Through this, she has brought some of Argentina’s greatest low-profile wines to the world’s food and drink capitals, including London, Barcelona, Amsterdam and São Paulo. She’s uncorked vintages from some of the biggest names, as well as encouraging producers from small projects to meet leading wine professionals, who are key when it comes to putting Argentina on the map — and on their wine lists. The event has become a synonym of cutting-edge labels and wineries because it is curated by Argentina’s greatest ambassador.
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This month it was Buenos Aires’ turn for a local version of Argentina Reloaded. It was held in Casa Cavia, a multifunctional space known for its Michelin-recognized restaurant and stunning cocktail bar. Co-owner Juan García is a well-known wine aficionado, collector, and producer. He is the mind behind the Raquis wine project, which is executed by Andrés Vignoni, the former head winemaker for Viña Cobos. Casa Cavia’s wine list and cellar is led by one of the next generation’s bright stars, Delvis Huck. It was a most suitable destination for this elite gathering, which later welcomed the general public.
A peony fermentation from Chubut
Paz brought together more than 75 wineries and 50 producers under one (open) roof, all thrilled to uncork and pour two vintages of their choice. To have Argentina’s first woman winemaker Susana Balbo and her son José Lovaglio in from Mendoza was a feather in the cap, while having both Catena sisters in the same country at the same event is a true coup.
Argentina Reloaded. Photo: Martin Aurello
The morning started with dozens of industry faces, from sommeliers leading restaurants and hotel beverage programmes to specialized media, tasting their way through more than 140 labels and other drinks, from whisky produced in Mendoza, ready-to-drink gin and tonic made with loquats, local sake, and a peony fermentation from Chubut.
Come the afternoon shift, wine lovers dropped by to taste dishes prepared by chef Julieta Caruso and the Casa Cavia kitchen, as well as some of the 140 labels. During the morning rush, the place was heaving with serious professionals, while the later shift was more of a jolly social mix where Paz herself was finally able to taste many of the wines and drinks.
There’s more than a dram of wisdom in Paz Levinson’s words: “Wine isn’t just a beverage, it’s a language. And it’s also an emotion.” Thank goodness we’re in the same conversation when it comes to Argentine wine.
Cover image: Paz Levinson, by Battellini
Dining and Cooking