In the past decade, Singapore’s fine dining scene has undergone tectonic shifts. “Fine dining has changed tremendously in the last 15 years,” Lepinoy says. “Social media has completely transformed the scene. When I started, dining at a fine restaurant was a private affair. Nobody shared their experiences. Now, everyone’s posting what they eat and where they eat. Fine dining has become part of the spotlight.”
However, in recent years, several high-profile fine dining establishments, such as Sommer, have closed their doors. For Lepinoy, these closures reflect broader challenges across the luxury sector.
“It’s not just F&B. The entire luxury segment is under pressure,” he notes. “We can’t blame Covid-19. The Singapore government supported restaurants very well during the pandemic. But the spike in rent, in some cases, up 50 to 70 percent after Covid-19, has made it extremely difficult.”
These pressures highlight the evolving landscape of fine dining, something Lepinoy has witnessed over his 36 years in the industry.
But what many chefs still underestimate, Lepinoy stresses, is the business side of running a restaurant.
“Chefs often focus solely on cooking and forget that a restaurant is also a business. That’s why many fail. You need a strong business plan and daily financial oversight. I have someone on my team who works with me on the numbers every morning, from costs and operations to marketing and positioning. Without that, you’re lost.”
Forging forward
Lepinoy remains energised by the future of fine dining and continues to innovate. This summer, he launched a new 14-course menu at Les Amis. By next year (he plans menus a year in advance), he’s looking to expand it to 18 courses.
And naturally, Evian will remain part of the journey. In fact, Lepinoy is already thinking about how to evolve the water service to heighten the dining experience.
“I’m planning to propose serving still water at a slightly warmer temperature, around 17 to 19°C, for guests who appreciate nuance,” he explains. “We’ll suggest it, not impose it, and explain why it enhances the palate. For example, when someone moves from champagne or white wine to red wine, a change in water temperature can complement that transition beautifully.”
He adds, “We’ll start training the team on how and why we do this, and for whom. It’s a small but refined detail, a thoughtful touch that can elevate the entire experience.”
Dining and Cooking