View of Sepino village, Campobasso, Molise, Italy.
De Agostini via Getty Images
Italy’s big-name cities hardly need an introduction, but Italians joke that “Molise doesn’t exist.” Nestled between Abruzzo, Lazio, Campania and Puglia, it rarely makes glossy itineraries. Yet if you go, you’ll find another version of Italy before mass tourism—quieter, slower and somehow much more real.
I learned this from Molise-born Giovanni Colavita, the olive oil producer whose family name is recognized worldwide. In fact, the Colavita brand is sold in over 70 countries. Over a tasting of his bold, peppery extra virgin oil, he laughed, rolling his R’s in that gorgeous Italian accent: “Most people think Molise isn’t even there. That’s exactly why it’s magic.”
The Olive Oil Mogul dreaming of summer holidays
Marisa Colavita
Colavita History In Molise
Colavita’s roots run deep in Molise. In 1938, in the hill town of Sant’Elia a Pianisi, Giovanni Colavita and his brother-in-law Felice began pressing olives from their groves into an oil that quickly became known for its peppery bite. What started as a village mill grew when Giovanni’s sons, Enrico and Leonardo, realized the world beyond Molise was hungry for the flavors they knew best. By the 1970s, Colavita was exporting olive oil abroad, still tied to the rhythms of the land but now reaching kitchens far from the Adriatic.
When Enrico traveled to the U.S., he met John Profaci, who became his distributor. Profaci and his sons pioneered the Colavita brand—the first extra virgin olive oil to reach the American market. Today, it’s a global brand, but at heart it’s still Molise: a family, a hillside and olives turned into liquid gold. And today Giovanni (the grandson of the original Giovanni) is the CEO of Colavita USA. Together with his sister Carla and his cousins Andrea, Gianni and Paulo, he has taken the company into the next generation—with it becoming one of the most recognizable olive oils on the shelf.
In fact, it is the only family-owned and operated company among its peers, Colavita further stands apart in the U.S. as the only brand to achieve national leadership in each of the olive oil, vinegar and Italian pasta categories within the retail and fast-growing e-commerce and foodservice channels. The brand currently ranks 5th among over 400 brands selling in the Extra Virgin segment that has now surpassed over $1 billion in sales, according to syndicated data from the U.S. grocery channel.
We met at the family home where Giovanni still returns for summer and winter holidays. Their house overlooks the original Colavita plant, which remains active today. And if you’re lucky, you might have a private olive oil tasting.
The original olive oil plant dating back to 1938
Courtesy of Colavita
“Our little town is immersed in this hilly landscape of woods, golden fields and olive trees that offer peace and harmony,” Giovanni said. “Only a few neighboring towns can be seen—the rest is just raw nature.”
Following him through seaside castles, trattorias unchanged for decades and hill towns that feel frozen in time, I realized Molise isn’t mythical. It’s simply, wonderfully overlooked. And that’s what makes it special.
Why Giovanni Loves Molise
Molise is Italy in miniature. Hill towns cling to slopes, the Apennines get dusted with snow in winter and in summer you’ll find Adriatic beaches that feel blissfully empty. Tourists are few and far between. “If you enjoy a slower, dolce pace,” Giovanni said, “the markets are perfect.” You can stroll past stalls of produce and baked goods, sipping espresso as locals shop for their daily provisions. It’s a real glimpse of life as it actually happens—unedited, unhurried—a rhythm harder to find in Italy’s more famous destinations.
Molise remains Italy’s least-visited region. In 2023, it saw about 20,000 international visitors compared with Tuscany’s 3.6 million, according to Banca d’Italia. You feel the difference immediately: quiet, understated, authentic. “Molise has everything a traveler could want,” Giovanni said, rolling his R’s again. “History, nature, food and people who genuinely want to share it. It’s Italy at its most genuine.”
Best Towns In Molise
Molise isn’t about blockbuster cities. It’s about places that move to their own rhythm. “These towns aren’t dressed up for tourists,” Giovanni told me. “They exist for the people who live here. That’s what makes them special.”
Campobasso – An hour’s stroll gives a real sense of daily life. Medieval streets twist past centuries-old churches and bustling markets where locals pick up bread, cheese and cured meats. It’s not polished for visitors—it’s just life. Stop at Zia Concetta, the most authentic trattoria in town.
All seasons, Campobasso in Molise is worth exploring
Giuseppe Terrigno
Termoli – A jewel on the Adriatic with a 13th-century castle, winding alleys and beaches that feel private. Giovanni recommends an early walk along the castle walls before the town wakes. For dinner, he swears by Svevia, run by his childhood friend. The seafood risotto is unforgettable, the spaghetti alle vongole tastes like the Adriatic itself and the house-made desserts are worth lingering over.
On a marvelous side note: While in Termoli, I by absolute chance met Giorgio Pace, a native of Molise with deep roots in the international art scene. He co-founded the traveling arts-design festival Nomad and has collaborated with the Met, the Venice Biennale and the Guggenheim. He’s transforming his family’s 19th-century home into a private museum designed by Kengo Kuma. Walking through the house and hearing his stories about growing up here gave me a vivid sense of life beyond the coast or hill towns.
UNSPECIFIED – JULY 23: Aerial view of a town, Termoli, Molise, Italy (Photo by DEA / U. COLNAGO/De Agostini via Getty Images)
De Agostini via Getty Images
Isernia – Roman ruins sit alongside a living old town. I paused for espresso in a sunlit piazza and just watched people go about their day. Travel can’t always be about monuments—it’s often about moments like these.
UNSPECIFIED – AUGUST 14: Italy, Molise Region, Province of Isernia, Frosolone, rainbow over fields (Photo by DEA / G. CARFAGNA/De Agostini via Getty Images)
De Agostini via Getty Images
Capracotta – High in the Apennines, the air is crisp and in winter the snow turns the town into a quiet alpine escape. Surrounding trails offer sweeping views of rolling hills for miles.
UNSPECIFIED – JULY 23: High angle view of buildings in a town, Capracotta, Molise, Italy (Photo by DEA / M. BORCHI/De Agostini via Getty Images)
De Agostini via Getty Images
Agnone – A town full of sound and flavor. Giovanni loves Caseificio di Nucci, where artisanal cheeses are made from just a few cows in the nearby hills. Then there’s Campane Marinelli, the world’s oldest bell foundry still in operation (and second oldest family-run business on record), which continues to craft bells for the Vatican and churches worldwide.
Bells making process bell are displayed at the Pontificia Fonderia Marinalli factory museum in the central Italian town of Agnone, on the Appenine hills of Molise region on March 23, 2009. The Pontificia Fonderia Marinelli, founded in 1339 in a village renowed since the Middle Ages for bell-making is the last company still in business and is the official maker of the Vatican bells since 1924. AFP PHOTO / FILIPPO MONTEFORTE TO GO WITH AFP STORY BY KATIA DOLMADJIAN (Photo credit should read FILIPPO MONTEFORTE/AFP via Getty Images)
AFP via Getty Images
Molise’s Natural Side
Molise has mountains to hike, rivers perfect for picnics and a coastline that still feels like your own. The Matese Mountains are ideal for panoramic hikes and quiet escapes. “Molise is where nature still feels untamed,” Giovanni said. “Even the mountains seem dignified. And very few people actually see them.”
Truly rolling hills here in Molise
Giuseppe Terrigno
We did spend a day at Cala Sveva Beach Club, a little-known stretch of the Adriatic. We sprawled in the sun, bobbed in the water, laughed and watched locals drift past—a simple, perfect moment. Other natural highlights Giovanni suggested:
Biferno River Valley – Slow, peaceful, ideal for fishing, a picnic or just a lazy afternoon.
Adriatic Coast – Beaches in Termoli and Campomarino remain blissfully free of the usual crush.
Where And What To Eat In Molise
Food here is rustic, seasonal and unforgettable. “Food isn’t about show in Molise,” Giovanni said. “It’s about honesty. Every dish tells the story of the land.”
Cavatelli with lamb ragù – Best in family trattorias, slow-cooked and hand-rolled.
Tintilia wine – A native red grape; sip it at sunset over the hills.
Gelato & pastries – Try a ceppelliate (almond tart) with your morning walk.
Olive oil tastings – At Colavita’s original estate, by invitation only (maybe try Giovanni’s DMs if you’re in the area).
Svevia, Termoli – Order seafood risotto, pappon panecotto in fish broth and the house desserts.
Caseificio di Nucci, Agnone – For caciocavallo and provolone made just steps from the pastures.
L’Elfo, Capracotta – A full truffle experience after a truffle hunt And if that doesn’t feel wild enough next to your pasta, get this: Molise—despite its modest size—accounts for approximately 40% of all truffles harvested in Italy, both black and white.
Worth trying on your next Molise trip – insaccati molisani
Giuseppe Terrigno
Festivals And Culture In Molise
For a small region, Molise celebrates big. I arrived just before harvest, but Giovanni described the scenes: villagers carrying baskets of olives, drummers threading through narrow streets, the smell of roasted chestnuts mingling with fresh bread. These aren’t staged for visitors—they’re for the community. “Join in,” Giovanni said, “and suddenly you belong.” Look out for medieval reenactments for which whole towns dress in costume, and religious processions where music is the soul of the streets.
Celebrating the harvest using the old transportation method, jelsi la traglia
Giuseppe Terrigno
Molise may be Italy’s most overlooked region, and that’s exactly its charm. While Tuscany or the Amalfi Coast draw millions, Molise moves quietly, keeping its authenticity intact. Travelers here find more than towns or landscapes—they find Italy unfiltered, alive and human. “Once you see it, you understand why it’s worth it,” Giovanni said. Yes, Molise exists. And if you love real travel, it belongs on your list.
If You Go To Molise
Nearest airports: Rome Fiumicino (FCO) or Naples (NAP), about two hours by car.
Getting around: Rent a car—Molise is built for road trips.
Where to stay: Agriturismi like La Fonte del Benessere near Campobasso, or guesthouses. In Termoli, Residenza Sveva is simple and comfortable.
Eat and drink: Cavatelli pasta, sheep’s milk cheese, Tintilia red, Colavita olive oil, seafood at Svevia, cheeses at Caseificio di Nucci.
Best time: Late May–June, and September–October for festivals and lighter crowds.
Pack for: Hillside walks, countryside drives, beach days and swims in the Adriatic.
Don’t miss: Termoli’s castle, Cala Sveva Beach Club, Agnone’s Marinelli Bell Foundry, Giorgio Pace’s project and whatever towns locals suggest.
Giovanni’s tip: “Stop at the markets—they’re the fastest way to taste Molise.”
Find some time to reflect at lago di Castel San Vincenzo
giuseppe_terrigno
Dining and Cooking