Brian Held’s Sisao seats just over 40 patrons in its Klines Court space in Lambertville.
A one-night-only, eight course tasting menu inspired by one of my culinary heroes — how could I resist? I eagerly booked a reservation at Chef Brian Held’s SISAO restaurant in Lambertville for the special event, “Recipes From Chef Fernand Point” on February 25.
It’s a name you may not be familiar with, but if you are a fan of French cooking, you’ve likely enjoyed a meal or two created by a chef who has carried on Fernand Point’s culinary legacy. Point (1887 – 1955), considered the father of modern French cuisine, was a larger than life figure (figuratively and literally) who presided over La Pyramide, his three Michelin Star restaurant in the city of Vienne, France. His landmark cookbook, “Ma Gastronomie,” has influenced generations of chefs to the present day.
You may have noticed that Chef Point and I have a surname in common. I have no idea whether we’re related, but I did have the pleasure of dining at La Pyramide more years ago than I’d care to admit, well after Chef Point had passed on, but while La Pyramide was still in family hands. The two things I remember most about that amazing experience are the size of the bill (the most expensive meal I’d ever had in my young life) and the size of the cheese trolley that was wheeled out at the very end of a long, leisurely repast, groaning under the weight of more kinds of cheese than I knew existed.
Turns out that Fernand Point is one of Chef Brian Held’s personal favorites as well, and this special tasting menu, among the first of a number of specially themed menus he has planned going forward, took place on the 100th anniversary of Point’s birth.
Held has orchestrated a number of memorable tasting menus at his Kline’s Court location, beginning with a 20 course (Yup, 20, not a typo) extravaganza at the beginning of his tenure there, when his establishment was then called Brian’s. He has since re-branded as SISAO (“A Dining Experience Inspired by the South of France”), although he is not averse to crossing borders (and continents) when creating a menu.
How best to describe the evening without taking up this entire newspaper? My three dining companions (spouse, plus two friends well versed in French cuisine) and I arrived at 6:20 for our 6:30 reservation to find a gaggle of guests (SISAO seats about 42), wine bottles in hand, patiently waiting in the chill of the evening until the door was unlocked at precisely 6:30, apparently standard operating procedure and as it turned out our only quibble of the evening.
Check-in was gracious and efficient, corks began popping throughout the dining room, and after a civilized interval the first course was brought by the well-choreographed, engaging servers, Parfait of Foie Gras with Port Jelly Truffle. It was a conversation stopper, in a good way. The room went silent as folks focused on the creamy, nutty texture of the creation placed before them.
French gastronomy legend Fernand Point inspired a special tasting menu.
The second course, Hot Quail Pâté with Foie Gras, a thinly sliced terrine, confirmed that we were off to what would be a most enjoyable evening, and the quiet that fell in the dining room when each course appeared confirmed that we were not the only ones enjoying ourselves.
Quenelle of Trout in Crayfish Sauce followed (one portion plated on a silky béchamel sauce to accommodate a shellfish allergy), both versions deemed delicious by my dining companions. The arrival of course number four, Braised Leeks, was announced by the scent of shaved truffle. Truffle also accompanied the protein that followed in the form of Chicken Blanquette, likely prepared sous vide and pronounced “Absolutely delicious!” by one of my dining companions.
Beef à la Royal followed; a portion of meaty, flavorful oxtail served on a puree of potato and carrot puree and topped with a rich beefy sauce. A bite-sized wedge of St. Aubin cheese drizzled with truffled honey arrived next, then an intensely fruity palette cleansing citrus sorbet. It was the setup for a satisfying conclusion to the evening;
Gateau Marjolaine, a classic chocolaty, nutty, crunchy, creamy French pastry made with dacquoise (layers of almond and hazelnut meringue and buttercream). And oh yes, a bit of fresh fruit (and coffee) to assuage any guilt about what came before.
Actually, there wasn’t an iota of guilt about what came before. Despite what may sound like a staggering amount of food, portions were correctly sized and service was perfectly paced over four hours. Yes, four hours, our check arrived at precisely 10:30 and we joined the throng of other contented diners making their way through the chilly streets of Lambertville.
In addition to SISAO’s regular offerings, Chef Held has a number of other tasting menus in the works. I’m particularly looking forward to his Bastille Day event on July 15. I strongly suspect that there will be more on that menu than baguette and water…
Note: The special eight-course tasting menu inspired by Chef Fernand Point was priced at $110 per person, plus tax and tip. A service charge is added to credit card payments; SISAO is BYO. Visit the website for a list of upcoming Chef’s Tasting Menus and to verify hours of operation.
A “Small Plates Petit Prix Fixe Menu” is priced at $45 and served on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays from 5 to 8 p.m.
A “Standard Prix Fixe Menu” is priced at $75 and served on: Fridays and Saturdays from 4:30 to 9 p.m. and Sundays from 4:30 to 8 p.m.
SISAO, 9 Klines Court, Lambertville. 609-483-2983. www.sisaorestaurant.com.
Dining and Cooking