ANDOVER, MA — When Paul LaRosa was in Saugus High School, he says classmates called him the “Candy Man.”` This sweet moniker was earned from his practice of buying candy for fifty cents and selling it for a dollar on campus. It was a prescient entrepreneurial start in the food business by a self-described indifferent student who felt “enclosed” in school.
Fast-forward three decades, this 48-year-old owns four restaurants that dominate the vibrant food scene in downtown Andover——LaRosa’s, La Fina, Prive and Autograph. In 16 years, the Italian cafe LaRosa’s on Barnard Street, his first acquisition with his cousin and business partner Michael Cammarata, has a wide and loyal following. But it wasn’t always that way.
“When we opened LaRosa’s in 2009, I had $600 dollars in the bank. I asked my dad for $900. We used to make like $400 a day.” Times were tight. He recalls they couldn’t afford to pay people. Family was helping out. LaRosa who had been cooking since he was 16 up and down Route 1 in Saugus from Papa Gino’s, The Ship, to Kelly’s Roast Beef admits he took a deep dive into the risky restaurant pool.
LaRosa credits his success to Italian food that tastes homemade, hard work and deliberate personal attention to woo and add customers. “Since day one, it was a goal of ours to learn everybody’s name. And to listen to people.” It worked. The popular restaurant is known for dishes like Steak Tip Arugula Salad to specialty sandwiches like the Angry Sicilian. The taste of success allowed LaRosa to expand.
Now it’s back to school week and downtown Andover is coming alive after the quiet of summer. On a Thursday afternoon, LaRosa talks energetically as he sits at his back table at La Fina. This is his 2019 jewel in the crown on Main Street. It’s a fine dining spot that translates from Italian to “The Finest”. And it looks it. High-end design and prime cuts, more big city chic than Essex County with a large, beautiful bar that’s been known to attract some beautiful locals. But he suggests the life of a restaurant owner is not all glamorous.
La Rosa notes the rise of the Food Network turned cooks into celebrities. It was not that way when he started out. Working in a kitchen had zero cachet. “The Food Network shows opened it up. Pulled back the curtain. Cooking —-you have to love it. It’s a lot of work. But I wouldn’t do anything else. It’s rewarding.”
LaRosa smiles as he talks about the transformational effects of food. “Making a meatball is how you give somebody a hug through food. It’s rustic, timeless and wrapped with flavor. A meatball reminds of being a child.”
Growing up as one of four kids, LaRosa’s childhood was spent watching his Sicilian family cook—-especially his grandfather Nonno Angelo. On Sundays before Mass, his mother would get up early and start the sauce and sausages…keeping it on low for a big family dinner that would follow. Making that sauce was a generational gift. To this day, LaRosa says it’s the best dish he cooks—“my Sunday sauce.”
The LaRosa culinary footprint has grown. Prive is used for private parties, wine dinners and music events. The sprawling sports themed tavern Autograph at the Main Street Courtyard is another LaRosa success story. Never resting on their laurels, this summer they opened LaRosa’s Italian Newburyport.
LaRosa credits life partner Melissa Gauthier for much of the business success. “ She’s a huge part of my business. She’s pushed us. Does all the marketing.”
They met when she applied for a counter job. He says it was “flirt as first sight”. They have been together 14 years and live in Danvers with their two children, a 7-year-old son and a 5-year-old daughter. LaRosa also has a grown son who is an aspiring tennis pro in Europe.
Paul LaRosa credits life partner Melissa Gauthier (right) for much of the business success (Rosemary Lappin/Andover News).
Reflecting on his years in Andover, the kid from Saugus says he had no idea about the town until his cousin Michael found the Barnard Street space. “Andover was like Egypt to me.” He had no clue. And now LaRosa smiles and says, “We’ve become a piece of the community.”
Quick Takes With Paul LaRosa
Describe Andover. Comforting
Favorite Andover building? Old Town Hall
How to Judge A Good Restaurant? The feeling when you walk in, greeting, lighting, quality of the Caesar Salad
Late Night Snack? Peanut Butter & Jelly Sandwich
Junk Food? Gummy candies like Swedish Fish or Gummy Bears
Vacation Spot? Cannes Or Miami
Sox Or Pats? Pats!
TV Show? ESPN
Favorite Song? World Hold On by Bob Sinclair
Motto? Give everything you got then you won’t fail.
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Dining and Cooking