Focaccia sandwiches are in vogue these days, and I understand their appeal. On its own, focaccia is an airy, slightly chewy delicacy with notes of olive oil and fresh herbs. The problem I’ve found is that the bread is often too chewy and/or cut too thick for practical use in a sandwich. I’ve had one too many focaccia sandwiches collapse in my hands while I’m trying to eat them due to the disproportionate fillings-to-bread ratio.
Enter schiacciata, a focaccia-adjacent Tuscan flatbread that’s thinner and crispier, meaning you won’t have to do any teeth tugging for each bite. It’s also thin enough to not get in the way of the flavor of your fillings.
Alveo, a new sandwich shop in Mariemont, uses it to create fantastic (and hefty) Roman-style sandwiches. I’m not entirely sure what a Roman-style sandwich is, other that they usually include very fresh ingredients and very good bread. The version I tried recently was called the Tacchina (Italian for turkey), a delicious a combination of smoked turkey, creamy stracciatella, saba (a tangy vinegar-like condiment), tomato conserva (a deeply concentrated tomato sauce), avocado crema and fresh spinach. That’s a lot of ingredients, but the flavors came together brilliantly in the same way a chef-prepared entree might at your favorite restaurant.
Randy Sebastian of Sebastian Bakehouse makes the schiacciata, and it’s another brilliant contribution to a Cincinnati restaurant by the Blue Ash-based baker (another being peppery laminated brioche at Colette restaurant in Over-the-Rhine). The sandwiches themselves are the brainchild of Andy Tanner, owner of Parisian Pantry, a gourmet food and provisions company based in Cincinnnati. He’s a veteran of some of the city’s best restaurants, including Sotto, Boca and Mita’s.
Other sandwiches include the L’Alveo with mortadella, pistachio crema, stracciatella and arugula; the Saporita, a savory combination of bresaola (Italian air-dried beef with notes of cinnamon and clove) with fresh ricotta, Grana Padano cheese, spinach and fennel. Sandwiches cost between $18 and $19. But unless you’re a glutton like me, each one will easily feed two people.
Alveo, 6816 Wooster Pike, Mariemont, 513-508-7729, eatalveo.com.
Highly Recommended is a weekly spotlight on some of food writer Keith Pandolfi’s favorite finds as he eats his way across Greater Cincinnati. Come back every Tuesday for more.
Dining and Cooking