Food Reviews
Cosmica
945 S 300 W, Salt Lake City
(385) 525-8600
Wed-Sat: 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
Sun: 5 p.m.-9 p.m.
cosmicasaltlake.com
Immediately upon entering Cosmica, I understood why it has that name. Walking through the front door immerses you in a spaghetti Western dining experience that is out of this world. The front is designed like an Italian countryside patio, with hanging plants on the pasta-yellow walls illuminated by the glow of pink and red neon lights.
Upon entering Cosmica, the atmosphere wins you over before you even try the food and drink. Photo: Talyn Behzad.
I was seated toward the bar along a tile wall with the two sides separated by a curtain at the top to create a cozy slice of privacy inside a bustling restaurant. The already intimate lighting dimmed further at 9:05 p.m., adding to its allure.
Won over by the atmosphere, I was delighted to order a drink after being transported from the menial grind of the average American into an Italian cosmos of fine dining. I started with the Snake Bite Sangria ($17) to take the edge off, which was served in a boot glass and garnished with lemon and mint. This cocktail, with its cloudy scarlet color, took a bite out of me. It was punchy, strong and sweet, just as advertised. Then came our appetizer, the Elk Carpaccio ($22), which called to me as someone with Japanese heritage who deeply loves raw fish and meat (if done properly), and Cosmica couldn’t have done it better. The thin cuts of elk melted in my mouth with a velvety creaminess that was soft and buttery. The shredded greens topped with Parmigiano on top felt like the salad equivalent of cotton candy, also melting in the mouth (as much as greens can), giving a satisfying, peppery after-taste and building excitement for my entree with each succeeding bite. I felt like Tony Soprano pawing at gabagool.
The Snake Bite Sangria, garnished with lemon and mint, will take a bite out of you if you’re not careful. Photo: Talyn Behzad.
After erasing any evidence that elk had been served at all, I ordered the Maccheroni alla Genovese ($26) while my girlfriend chose the Linguine e Shrimp ($25). I was elated to pair my main course with red wine, sipping on the Adegas Guímaro Mencia 2023 ($16) from Ribeira Sacra, Spain, which was rich and dark, allowing a smooth and sweet finish.
My girlfriend allowed me to try her linguine and thank God she did, because it was a perfectly balanced ratio of sauce, shrimp and noodle. The sauce was garlicky and creamy, the noodles were close to al dente which gave a nice texture and the shrimp was fresh but didn’t overwhelm the other flavor profiles.
The maccheroni ensnared me in its warm embrace on the first bite, as if wrapping me in a warm blanket after bracing for a snowstorm. The meat, a slow-cooked pulled beef in a rich onion ragu sauce with white wine and beef marrow joining the party, melded with the maccheroni noodles beautifully and was topped with a shredded Parmigiano powder reminiscent of Park City powder in the winter. Each bite reinforced my mission to clean my plate. The flavor was rich, the textures worked wonderfully together, and the only thing that made me upset with the meal was that it ended.
For dessert, I couldn’t resist the Banana Split ($11). Following the mountain of heartiness and savory delight that was the maccheroni, I was given its sweet and evil twin. Two large scoops of vanilla gelato formed sweet and creamy Alps, blanketed by candied peanuts, caramelized bananas, chocolate sauce, Amarena cherries and hazelnut. It was the perfect ending to a great meal that left me feeling satisfied but not overly gluttonous despite taking down a feast.
Cosmica certainly shoots for the moon and lands among the stars. Several dishes and drinks sparkle on a menu that just hit the spot, scratching an itch better than most can. When I heard jazz at the end of my meal, I realized I hadn’t noticed the music serenading my subconscious. I surrendered to the richness of the food and delighted in the drinks. Cosmica is certainly at the top of the list for my next date night.
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