Bury St Edmunds boasts an increasing variety of independent food and drink venues, but Maison Bleue was there long before this contemporary reputation and should not be overlooked. It’s an old favourite that just keeps delivering the finest quality and experience of tastes, textures and aromas – as well as an outstanding nod to the finest French cuisine in the heart of Bury.
Walking through the doors of Maison Bleue feels a bit like stepping into a sanctuary – a refuge from the rush of the outside world, a place where food is not just a meal but a rich, multi-layered experience.
As you make your way through the restaurant, you pass the cheese board – a riotous feast for the senses. The restaurant is a study in calm; the interiors are a sophisticated blend of softness and texture delivering a welcoming feel. It’s an elegant space where the art of dining slowly unfolds and the chatter of nearby tables is softened by the surroundings.
Chef Pascal Canevet and second chef Laurent Deloutre. Photo: Ben Brown Across the room, the open kitchen hums quietly with activity. Chefs move gracefully, their routines refined, their gestures purposeful. The setting feels intimate – a perfect blend of calm and creativity – a space made for a truly gastronomic experience. Here you’ll find chef-patron Pascal Canevet in perfect crisp whites alongside the grace of Karine Canevet and her front of house team.
We began our evening with a pair of carefully selected wines. The first white was from New Hall Wine Estate, part of the Essex Crouch Valley vineyard movement, which Bill and Sheila Greenwood pioneered in 1969. It was a shimmering, pale gold wine that tasted, quite literally, of the English countryside in late spring. It was crisp, clean, with a slight nettle-like grassiness. The Papa Figos Vinho Branco from the Douro in Portugal was its counterpart – more substantial, subtly rich, with elegant tannins and a softness that made it a perfect match for the food to come.
Some restaurants pay lip service to wine lists; Maison Bleue lets its 38-page selection speak for itself. It’s a sophisticated blend of old-world tradition and new-world creativity, topped off by the personal knowledge and passion of Karin, Pascal, their sommelier and trusted local importers and suppliers, such as Charles Eaton at the nearby Nethergate Wines. However, diners should not be intimidated with bottles ranging from £26 up to fine wine levels.
A main course of local lamb. Photo: Maison Bleue The breads were a real treat; a trio of warm, expertly crafted breads arrived alongside a creamy, pressurised salted butter – a small yet potent expression of artistry, which the waiter explained in proud detail. The potato bun was soft, yielding; the poppyseed roll offered texture; the sourdough provided depth of flavour.
Throughout the menu, Pascal selects the finest ingredients from local suppliers and the market in Bury St Edmunds to ensure uncompromising quality.
The amuse-bouche was a miniature tour de force – a set of delicate, intricate creations designed to prepare the palate for the meal ahead. The parmesan petits choux was a rich, warm bite encapsulated in a creamy, umami-rich foam. The beetroot panna cotta was silky and unexpectedly light – garden-fresh without a hint of earthiness. The pecan cream encapsulates the restaurant’s ability to combine artistry with flavour, delivering big stories in small packages.
Inside Maison Bleue. Photo: Ben Brown For starters, we tasted two extraordinary dishes – the scallop and the Devon crab – each a testament to Maison Bleue’s skill in honouring ingredients while adding their own sophisticated twist. The scallop was perfectly seared and presented in a pool of ‘sea ghost’ foam – a creamy, saline texture reminiscent of the shore. Orange flower petals added colour and aromatic notes, while apple pearls provided texture and a sweet-tangy contrast. It was a plate that tasted and felt like a walk along the sea’s edge.
The Devon crab was a rich blend of sweet crab, brine-like caviar, a crisp base and a dash of lemon juice that cut through its richness. A wonderful expression of the finest seafood from our native coast.
My delicate starter was a perfect lead to the tender slow-cooked Shimpling lamb rump bathed in a reduction subtly flavoured with wild garlic, pistachio and chickpea. The Famile Richard signature red wine was the perfect partner.
Maison Bleue is renowned for its fish cuisine, so the monkfish with a bacon crust was an easy choice – wow!
The decadent chocolate souffle. Photo: Matt Wilson Desserts at Maison Bleue are where the team lets their creativity soar. We were treated to a plate featuring chocolate crème brûlée (with chantilly cream) alongside a rich chocolate soufflé (with a creamy coffee sorbet). Each spoon challenged us to appreciate the contrast – creamy against rich, smooth against light.
Just when we thought we were finished, the restaurant presented its petits fours. There was a marshmallow and raspberry brûlée, which was delicate and creamy, with a tart fruit core and a crispy sugar crust. The dark chocolate and strawberry ganache was rich with a sophisticated flavour combination, while the vanilla financier was pure, buttery and elegant – a classic in miniature form.
It would be remiss not to highlight the non-alcoholic pairings on offer. This sets Maison Bleue apart: its careful consideration for non-drinkers. Think herbal infusions with rosemary, basil or thyme, a spritz made from their own verjus – adding acidity and structure in much the way a fine wine would – and cold-brew teas infused with jasmine or oolong.
Finish off with petit fours. Photo: Maison Bleue Maison Bleue is a fully immersive experience, created and delivered without compromise by Karine and Pascal. From its warmly sophisticated setting, its expertly crafted food and its thoughtful drink pairings to its passionate team – every moment resonates with artistry, care and pure gastronomic pleasure. Being local to Bury St Edmunds, we have visited this Suffolk gem for many special occasions over the years, but it just keeps raising its game and never fails to delight the senses.
Dining and Cooking