I received countless impressions while strolling through Vieux Port in central Marseille.
The yachts gently swayed on the water, while the Belle Époque buildings cast shadows on the sidewalks filled with locals enjoying delicious lunches.
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“Wow, what a deep blue sea,” I exclaimed.
The question “How much?” with an emphasis on the first word sparked interest from passersby.
I was looking at the price of bouillabaisse in a restaurant by the shore.
This dish is a Marseille classic: a huge bowl filled with scorpion fish, mullet, monkfish, and seafood, in a fragrant broth with saffron, fennel, tomatoes, and spices.
Slices of toasted baguette are served with a rich garlic rouille sauce.
It’s a real treat, but I flinched slightly at the £150 price tag — which turned out to be quite typical for this establishment.
If traditions cost that much, it’s urgent to seek modern alternatives.
Modern Flavors of Marseille
Wandering through the narrow streets of the Noailles district, I stumbled upon a place that resembled nothing I had seen in France.
The deep south of Marseille is home to old communities from Italy, Syria, and North Africa, as well as many other cultures.
Incredible street culinary traditions are being formed here.
At Chez Yassine, I stood in line with locals, savoring a Tunisian sandwich that cost just £7.
It was served in nutty flatbread and filled with tangy tuna, green pepper, olives, tabbouleh, and ricotta.
I also treated a cat that was wandering nearby in the lovely Le Panier district — once grim, but now, like many other areas of this vibrant city, it’s transforming into a bohemian space with exquisite cafes overflowing with wisteria.
After an hour, I came across Grenade at Pistache, a Syrian cafe on the trendy Rue Saint-Ferréol.
I took the advice of a visitor from Syria and chose a trio of falafels the size of tennis balls, generously covered in hummus. Price: only £7.
Taste in Marseille
I thought I was full after dinner, but soon decided to try a unique pizza at Pizza Charly, which became a logical continuation of the evening.
This slice is 50/50: one side loaded with cheese, the other with anchovies.
At just £1.40 a slice — they are popular among locals at parties.
Though I was satisfied already, thanks to a lengthy search, I found the next best thing to bouillabaisse in the form of a sandwich.
This delicacy is offered at a small cafe, Pain a l’ail, a bit further from the marina.
I safely ate half of a fresh baguette stuffed with seafood, paired with a pot of rouille sauce.
For ten pounds, it was the perfect alternative to Marseille’s royal dish until I stumbled upon En Cornet, a place right on the waterfront.
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After an hour of waiting at a table, I quickly received a delicious seafood dish in a cone — a lively alternative.
My cone was overflowing with fried sprats, squid, and shrimp, garnished with a slice of lemon and served with a pot of extremely garlicky aioli sauce.
The crunch of the batter and the tenderness of the squid under the scorching sun was a true pleasure. And all this for £12.
France is known for its high-class culinary art.
However, in sunny, bustling Marseille, the quality is just as high, and prices, if you choose the right places, won’t hit your budget and will only bring pleasure.
Dining and Cooking