Twenty-five years ago, Delhi’s dining scene wasn’t exactly synonymous with artisanal olive oils, regional Italian specialties, or thoughtfully plated antipasti. Yet, in 1999, when a young Chef Ritu Dalmia opened DIVA, she wasn’t trying to dazzle with pomp or chase fleeting trends, she simply wanted to serve good food without intimidation. What followed was not just the birth of a restaurant, but the making of a culinary institution that has weathered food fads, recessions, and even a pandemic, while keeping its core intact. For Chef Ritu, the real story of DIVA isn’t in the number of years, but in the guests who return time and again, the families who’ve grown up with her food, and the chefs who’ve been part of her journey. Overwhelmed with affection, yet grounded in pragmatism, she looks back at the restaurant’s 25-year legacy not as a victory lap, but as an evolving love story between food, people, and the city she calls home.
LuxeBook: Twenty-five years is a milestone in any industry, more so in the ever-evolving world of dining. When you look back at the journey of DIVA, what emotions come up first?
Chef Dalmia: Actually, it has been so overwhelming, the love and affection I have received not only from guests but from chefs and people from the industry… it really has been a very big highlight of my life…
Image Courtesy: DIVA
LuxeBook: What was the original vision you had for DIVA when you started, and how has that vision evolved over the years?
Chef Dalmia: Honestly, the vision has not changed; it has just evolved with time, changing with the availability of ingredients and exposure levels of clients. Diva was always meant to be a non-intimidating restaurant where the biggest highlight would be food, and maybe that’s why, even after 25 years, we have the same guests coming over and over again.
LuxeBook: DIVA has weathered food trends, economic shifts, and even a pandemic. What would you say has been the secret to its longevity?
Chef Dalmia: I think the biggest strength of our organisation has always been that we try our best to run very efficient operations, and we have never wasted money on frills and fancy. That and more than that, the zeal and strength of my whole team, who have stood by me through thick and thin.
Image Courtesy: DIVA
LuxeBook: When you opened DIVA in 1999, Delhi’s dining scene was very different from what it is today. How would you describe the evolution of Indian diners and their palates since then?
Chef Dalmia: Delhi was not that bad when we opened, but yes, the exposure levels were not the same as before. At that time, what people thought of Italian was carb-heavy pizza, pasta, and cheesy sauces. Today, they are very well exposed to regional cuisines, and no one asks for American-sized pastas anymore.
LuxeBook: How do you see the next generation of chefs and restaurateurs shaping the Indian dining scene?
Chef Dalmia: There is so much talent and curiosity amongst the new generation of chefs, and what they have more than what was there 25 years ago is accessibility. They have opportunities to do stage worldwide, taste the food at its origin, and what is wonderful to see is how much love is being given to our own Indian cuisine.
Image Courtesy: DIVA
LuxeBook: Has the definition of “fine dining” in India changed over the last two decades?
Chef Dalmia: I have never been a fan of fine dining, and people are also exhausted with several courses, overly formal settings, and way too much pretence. For me, fine dining means what the word actually means- very good food.
Image Courtesy: DIVA
LuxeBook: What have been some of the most memorable feedback moments from your guests that still stay with you?
Chef Dalmia: Way too many to share, but recently I received a message from a guest who has been eating at DIVA since she was 10 years old, which I quote, “Chef, when I came as a 10-year-old brat who wanted to eat nothing but mashed potatoes, you and your team gently cajoled me to try different things, and by the time I was 18, I was showing off to all my friends my knowledge and love for Italian food. My daughter is now 10 years old, and I see the same happening with her. Thank you so much for being part of 3 generations of my family and their special meals.”
As DIVA turns 25, Chef Ritu Dalmia isn’t looking back with nostalgia as much as she’s looking forward with appetite. Trends may come and go, but her recipe for success remains timeless. After all, fine dining may be up for debate, but great food never goes out of style.
You may also read: Chef Kayzad Sadri Brings Amadeo by Oberoi To Delhi for a Limited Pop-Up
Dining and Cooking