The family-run hospitality group behind celebrated D.C. dining institutions Lapis, Lutèce, and Pascual debuts a fanciful wine bar in a decked-out Adams Morgan brownstone this month. Maison Bar à Vins, set to open on Saturday, September 13, in Adams Morgan, transforms what was the 30-year-old, longtime home of Habana Village into a refined, yet relaxed, neighborhood newcomer spanning three stories (1834 Columbia Road NW).
At Popal Group’s neo-bistro Lutèce in Georgetown, partner Omar Popal says that the “one complaint was that customers can’t just get a drink,” since the bar was for dinner reservations only. Thus was born the idea for Maison, where “we’re taking the bar program and expanding it — there’s more room to play and more space to expand our wings.”
Maison’s lengthy first floor ends with tiger print carpets, candle-lit tables, and dramatic drapes. Deb Lindsey
Surrounded by original architecture, alongside a handful of Victorian-era fireplaces, and under antique imported chandeliers, diners can peruse the bar’s lengthy (thousand-plus) wine cellar list, a “60/40 split” from France and the rest of the world, says Popal. The wine program will focus on organic, biodynamic wines and on smaller, sustainable producers. Then the rest of the array will include “fun, interesting-to-share, and local gems,” he says. There will be upwards of 30 options by the glass: red, white, rosé, orange, and dessert, “to show people other varieties that are less well-known.” Bubbles, of course, will bring their effervescent energy to the list as well.
A vibrant crudo dressed with a tableside pour. Deb Lindsey
Wines don’t simply stay in the cellar. Pascual’s beverage program designer, Suzy Critchlow, now helms the new cozy, 12-seater bar, with a list of cocktails that feature wines and wine-based ingredients, plus cognacs, Armagnacs, calvados, absinthe, and other French liquors that would make an apero aficionado blush. Examples of such include the Poire et Poivre (rye, cognac, poire, sauternes, black pepper, angostura), plus a sweeter option to end the meal, the Rivesaltes Ramos (Vin rancio, crème épaisse, citrus, soda, orange blossom).
Popal and his team ambitiously seek to redefine the wine bar, not least of which through the food, led by chef Matt Conroy (who also runs the kitchens at Lutèce and Pascual, Capitol Hill’s polished Mexican hit, which was named one of Eater’s Best New Restaurants in America in 2024). The food at Maison, Conroy says, is “not just a cheese plate and wine flight,” as Popal wanted to ensure that diners could get small and shared plates for an early date or a full, hearty meal with family. Conroy brings over some Lutèce favorites with influences from new Paris wine bars that are more flexible in their food offerings.
Martinis arrive with a trio of olives. Deb Lindsey
Local olives stuffed with preserved citrus. Deb Lindsey
Pate arrives on a vintage plate alongside Maison-branded glassware. Deb Lindsey
Conroy says Maison’s approach isn’t a traditional app-entree-dessert; instead, they start with smaller snacks like preserves, ferments, or skewers of seasonal bounty. For example, local olives are stuffed with preserved citrus, which pairs well with a martini for “a good start.”
Smaller plates include seaweed-dusted, taramosalata-filled choux buns evoking the Mediterranean, while oysters with clarified coconut curry have echoes from farther afield. Inland-inspired smaller plates include pastoral terrines, creamy-savory smoked eel croquettes, and egg yolk-topped tartare accompanied by bone marrow aioli. Larger plates include Provencal favorite grilled tuna; and one of Conroy’s signatures, the rich brioche-stuffed chicken breast with mushrooms. Conroy will also oversee desserts, including a “decadent” chocolate tart with bourbon-infused cherries. There will be a slim, bar-focused late-night menu 11 p.m. to midnight on weekends and 10 to 11 p.m. on weekdays.
Maison is three years in the making, says Popal, who has been running restaurants for more than two decades in D.C. When he saw a “for sale” sign out front, he cold-called the number and took it from there.
The dreamy bar at Maison welcomes guests upon entry. Deb Lindsey
When Maison Bar à Vins debuts this weekend, the first floor will be open first, with its no-reservations bar area, while the small, intimate, back room — made moody with its green velvet curtains, tiger-patterned carpet, floral wallpaper, wood-paneled fireplace, and leather chairs – will be open to reservations. Up a tight staircase, the second floor (more velvet curtains, red this time) will be the main room for dining and might play host to a weekend DJ. The third floor will open later as a private space for events and tastings.
Oysters dressed with clarified coconut curry. Deb Lindsey
Maison augments Columbia Road’s already acclaimed dining strip that’s home to Popal’s Michelin Bib Gourmand-designated Afghan sibling spot Lapis as well as Perry’s, the Japanese sensation led by James Beard Award-winning chef Masako Morishita. Opening day on Saturday coincides with Adams Morgan Day, an annual event to celebrate businesses on and around the 18th Street corridor that could use support more than ever right now, just like the rest of the city.
Through his years running restaurants, says Popal, “We’ve seen a lot of change. But the heart of it is that you have to be resilient and passionate. The current climate is a concern for everyone, but we’re here to support each other.”
The brick facade at the new Maison. Deb Lindsey
Seaweed choux buns. Deb Lindsey
Dining and Cooking