For most people, retirement means slowing down and taking it easy. For former Chicago Bears defensive end Israel Idonije it’s been anything but. Since officially retiring from the NFL in 2014, he’s been on a mission to give the South Loop neighborhood he calls home restaurants and bars that rival other parts of the city.
On Sunday, September 14, Idonije’s Pangea Restaurant Group will open Buttercup, an intimate daytime coffee bar and an amaro-focused evening cocktail lounge and bistro. The cafe was developed in partnership with the team behind nearby Oliver’s, and joins Idonije’s existing portfolio of spots that includes Signature Steak (formerly Signature) and the Staley. Notably, Idonije has more projects in the works; as he recently told Crain’s last November, he’s planning on converting a landmark Motor Row building into a boutique hotel with a restaurant.
Idonije moved to the South Loop in 2014, and describes the neighborhood as “a gem” and “a little suburb of the city.” He says he saw an opportunity to grow new businesses in the area, home to Soldier Field and residential high-rises, which he feels is sometimes overlooked by restaurateurs in Chicago.
“Often I’d be in the neighborhood, and I would see the droves of people coming out of games and concerts,” says Idonije. “It was always just amazing to me why this area didn’t have more attention from Chicago’s hospitality industry.”
Buttercup will be open from morning to night. Jeremy Yap
Starting at 7 a.m., Buttercup features a full coffee program with custom blends for espresso and drip from Chicago-based Sparrow Coffee. It’s a welcome addition for an area where independent coffee shops are scarce. Sparrow will also provide the morning baked goods ranging from blueberry corn muffins and sticky toffee bread to laminated pastries. Depending on customer demand, breakfast sandwiches, eggs to order, and lunch offerings could be added later.
“As we grow into the space, we’ll get a better sense of what we might be doing in the future,” says chef Alex Carnovale, who also runs the kitchen at Oliver’s. “We’re excited to get some folks in the space and collect early reactions and that’ll inform how we grow into it.”
Buttercup shifts gears later in the day. The concise evening menu, which starts at 4 p.m., features Italian-leaning classics like a charcuterie plate and truffle pizzetta. There’s a kale and broccoli Caesar salad with white anchovies, smoked mozzarella, and crispy hand-torn croutons. Those looking for a heartier meal can opt for the roasted pork neck. Cured and air-dried before it’s cut into steaks, the Slagel Farms pork is slow-cooked for 16 hours and then grilled to order. It’s paired with a punchy gremolata and pickled cipollini onions.
“We want people to be able to slow down over some cocktails or wine, but then also have the ability to build a meal around it if they want to,” says Carnovale.
Drinks are under the purview of beverage director Luke DeYoung, who previously worked at Scofflaw before joining the team at Oliver’s. Leaning into Buttercup’s Italian influences, amaro plays a dominant role. DeYoung also spotlights other bitter liqueurs from around the world.
“The number one goal was to provide a fun and interesting experience for both veterans of amaro and guests who have never tried it,” says DeYoung. Offering an Old Fashioned and margarita in which amaro subs in for the traditional alcohol base provides an entryway for newcomers to the bitter Italian spirit. The rest of the menu is a collection of classic and creative amaro cocktails. A small selection of Italian wines and beer are available, too.
An unexpected twist is Buttercup’s kakigori machine. Traditionally used for Japanese shaved ice desserts that are topped with fruit syrups and sweetened condensed milk, DeYoung takes the thin sheets of shaved ice the machine makes to create fluffy snow cone-like drinks with plenty of visual appeal. (That machine is also put to good use in the morning with a frozen panna dulce topper available as a drink add-on.)
The menu will offer charcuterie and Italian-leaning plates. Jeremy Yap
Many of the cocktails are built around amaro. Jeremy Yap
Another area DeYoung explores is nonalcoholic amaro, which he believes comes closest to mirroring its alcoholic counterpart. At Buttercup, there are a few options to sample on their own as well as in cocktails. For those looking for lower alcohol cocktails in general, many amari are naturally low ABV, explains DeYoung. He plans on doing some fun collaborations as well as hosting amaro-themed parties (look for some of the latter during the upcoming Negroni Week, taking place Monday, September 22 to Sunday, September 28).
To make the most of Buttercup’s 900-square-foot space, formerly 16th Street Bar, the team worked with local designer Nathan Michael, whose eponymous company also designed Asador Bastian and DeNucci’s. Michael was also in charge of all the branding materials.
Located on the ground floor of a four-story building with a hair salon on one side and a piano studio on the other, Buttercup’s exterior offers quiet hints of its purpose. “Cafe by Light” and “Amaro at Night” are stenciled in small gold lettering on its two windows just above the lace curtains. “Italian Apertifs” and “Fine Foods” are written above the glass door.
Inside the 40-seat room, the walls and ceiling are painted a butter yellow hue, a lighter version of which is replicated in the retro Formica-like tables. A burnt orange velvet banquette is contrasted with a brown-and-white striped back and trim. The geometric-patterned floor tiles offer a whimsical eye-catching detail.
Above the 11-seat, chrome-topped bar, globe-sized light fixtures hang below sheer curtains, adding more softness and warmth to the space. Throughout Buttercup are thoughtful vintage accessories, further blurring the line between new and old.
“Buttercup is the name of an Italian flower, and it also means to bring joy or to delight,” says Idonije. “We hope this little space brings joy and delight to the SoLo community and the people who visit here.”
Buttercup, 75 E. 16th Street. Open 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. (cafe) and 4 p.m. to midnight (amaro bar) Monday through Sunday. Opening September 14.
Dining and Cooking