Ala Vodka, Provare, Chicago
Photo courtesy Provare
Everyone has probably had one or both of these types of evenings when dining out; the food is great, but for some reason, there’s a problem with the atmosphere (too noisy, drab settings, tables too close together). Or the restaurant has a beautiful interior, but the food isn’t up to par. Well at Provare in Chicago’s West Town neighborhood, you won’t have an issue with either of those situations, as the food is excellent across the board, and the vibe is just wonderful.
Chef and partner Jourdan Higgs is the creative force at Provare, and he offers a creative Creole-Italian theme that is beautifully accomplished, and one that has caught on with local diners; open for four years, the restaurant was very crowded on a recent weekday night. I asked Higgs, who is from Oak Park, a suburb just west of Chicago, how he thoughts of the Creole-Italian concept. “I was a big fan of making pasta dishes growing up, ” he replied. “Additionally my parents would also make a number of different pastas. Then when I started traveling to New Orleans and getting introduced to different spices and seasonings I knew I wanted to blend the two together. Then to bring in the concept of making our own pasta fresh in house and sauces to order.”
Did Diggs grow up eating a lot of Creole dishes? “Not till I got to college when I would try using different Cajun and creole spices/seasoning blends. Then it really took off when I would travel to New Orleans two to three times a year.”
A selection of dishes at Provare, Chicago
Photo courtesy Provare
Well his homework has certainly paid off, especially with starters such as Crab Cakes and Crabby Fries; the former features several mini-sized crab cakes with pico di gallo (a Mexican salsa) and scallion aioli; while this sounds like it would be quite spicy, it has a rather mild kick that beautifully complements the crab cakes. The latter is a fun dish with large waffle fries smothered in a combination of fresh crab meat (“crabby fries,” get it?), scallion aioli and pico di gallo. Those watching their calorie intake might just look elsewhere on the menu, but for the rest of us, these fries are addictive!
There are nine entrées ranging from a “Smash Burger” served with American cheese, pickles, lobster meat and sweet heat aioli that is one of the most distinctive burgers you’ll ever taste, to Vegan Bolognese Pasta to Steak Frites and Shrimp Cognac Scampi – the sauce is Cognac cream, a wonderful touch – and “Ala Vodka,” which has become one of the signature dishes at Provare (incidentally the word provare in Italian means “to try,” as chore no one would consider a problem here when it comes to any dish). This is rigatoni pasta with pancetta, vodka, marinara sauce and cream; it’s incredibly flavorful on its own, but do yourself a favor and order it with one of several sides, such as crawfish, chicken, shrimp, crab meat or lobster meat.
Butter cake, Provare
Photo courtesy Provare
There is only one dessert on the menu, and it is a winner! The butter cake with strawberries and drizzled caramel that is served warm is a delight, not only because it is so good, but it also reminds me of the simple pleasure of my youth; I imagine that others will have the same thoughts. Beautiful to look at, this is light as a feather, and a great way to finish a meal at Provare after all the spiciness of what comes before.
As for drinks, Provare specializes in cocktails and local artisan beers. There are wines available by the glass, which are priced in the $10-$12 range. This means you’ll be drinking a lighter-styled wine, and while I would like to see a few bottles in a moderate price range ($35 to $50), as well as one Champagne or sparkling wine in the $60-$100 range per bottle, that’s not what Provare is all about. Besides, it’s been some time since I’ve seen such reasonable pricing on wine glass pours, which is a big plus, and my Sea Glass Pinot Noir was very enjoyable, thank you.
I have to point out the excellent service here, as the waiters are attentive, responsive and no-nonsense; they are glad to assist you and always have a smile on their face. The same holds true for the staff at reception and the general manager; each of these individuals called me by my name and wanted to make sure my evening would be enjoyable. I realize that this is supposedly standard behavior, but I can’t remember the last time the service staff was this courteous; this will clearly pay off for future business, as who wouldn’t want to return to a restaurant where you are treated this well?
Higgs has recently opened another Provare in Houston; given my experience at his Chicago location, I have to believe that the new Provare will be a great success; would anyone doubt it?
Provare
1523 W. Chicago Avenue, Chicago
Dining and Cooking