Chef Bonnie Moore, a native of Chicago who was raised in St. Louis, has returned home to lead the team at Idol Wolf, 21c Museum Hotel St. Louis’ lauded restaurant. The space made its debut in July 2023 with Matt Daughaday at the helm, launching Spanish-inspired cuisine into the spotlight with an array of snackable plates and larger format dishes to mix and match.
Idol Wolf executive chef Bonnie Moore.
Jacklyn Meyer
Moore grew up in Webster Groves, working at institutions like CJ Muggs before departing for the Culinary Institute of America in New York. Upon returning to St. Louis, she landed a coveted spot at Annie Gunn’s in Chesterfield, working her way up to senior sous chef alongside three-time James Beard award nominated chef Lou Rook.
Most recently, Moore spent 10 years at Blackberry Farm, situated in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains of Knoxville, Tennessee, serving as executive chef in multiple venues across the property, including the Main House kitchen. But after a decade, change was calling to her. “I’m just really excited to have a new challenge. I was at Blackberry [Farm] for a long time, and I loved the experience,” she says. “But I just turned 44, and I’m just really excited to have a new challenge. I’m ready for what’s next.”
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Brussels sprouts tossed with Russian kale in an apple cider vinaigrette, perched atop a carrot purée and garnished with smoked pepitas.
Jacklyn Meyer
Moore adds that a breast cancer diagnosis in 2023 kickstarted the desire to change gears. “[2023] was a tough year with treatment and surgery and radiation and everything else,” she says. “And there’s just something about going through that that gives you a different perspective. When you come out on the other side of it, you’re ready to challenge yourself. You’re feeling a lot better, and you get to the part where you’re like, “’Wow, that sucked. Let’s do something to move forward.’”
Grilled strip steak with Manchego whipped potatoes, tallow roasted carrots and Chanterelle mushrooms.
Jacklyn Meyer
So, for Moore, moving forward meant moving back to St. Louis, the city she calls home, to push Idol Wolf into its next chapter by using her vast experience with seasonal cooking to make the menu her own. She’s quick to point out that she doesn’t want people to assume she’s coming in as an expert in Spanish cuisine. “I want to be honest about that,” she says. “I have a love for Mediterranean cuisine and for local ingredients. Melding those things together takes the menu in a direction that’s still on-concept in a way that seems really true to me right now. I’m coming into a menu that’s pretty great, right? So I’m identifying things that are easy to transition seasonally.”
Sobrasada agnolotti with goat cheese, orange marmalade, Serrano ham, caramelized honey, jalapeño and grilled bok choy.
Jacklyn Meyer
Presently, Moore finds herself between seasons in a way, at a time when summer produce has peaked and fall ingredients are on the horizon, so she’s spending her time brainstorming what the coming months could bring for the menu. “For me – and with fall coming – it’ll be time to roll into some braised things, some baked things … a heartier kind of feeling with the dishes.” She’s been talking to longtime staff and guests alike to determine menu favorites and where there’s room for experimentation. Moore recently hired chef de cuisine Hal McKinney, formerly of Bistro La Floraison, to help bring her vision for the restaurant into reality.
Grilled broccolini with whipped ricotta, Spanish XO, Marcona almonds and sorrel.
Jacklyn Meyer
Favorites like seafood paella, pan con tomate and “chorizo”-roasted Hen of the Woods will continue to ground the menu, but even in those, Moore sees an opportunity to have a little fun. “It’s going to be a gradual change, with an emphasis on maintaining those core menu items – the signature ones that people come back for over and over again. A lot of people love those, right? Paella is big here, so we’re keeping that, but I think there are ways to weave in changes with the seasons with some vegetables. Or maybe we could do a soft-shell [crab] paella because Softies are in season. So, it’s just finding fun ways to think about the dishes.”
Tenderloin carpaccio with caper-anchovy relish, cracked black pepper aioli and crispy shallots with Union Loafers toast.
Jacklyn Meyer
Cocktails at Idol Wolf.
Jacklyn Meyer
The first round of Moore’s dishes have begun hitting the menu already, ushering guests into fall with the season’s robust flavors. Additions include a grilled strip steak with Manchego whipped potatoes, tallow roasted carrots and Chanterelle mushrooms; grilled broccolini with whipped ricotta, Spanish XO, Marcona almonds and sorrel; tenderloin carpaccio with caper-anchovy relish, cracked black pepper aioli and crispy shallots with Union Loafers toast; sobrasada agnolotti with goat cheese, orange marmalade, Serrano ham, caramelized honey, jalapeño and grilled bok choy; and Brussels sprouts tossed with Russian kale in an apple cider vinaigrette, perched atop a carrot purée and garnished with smoked pepitas.
You won’t want to skip dessert this season, either; a vanilla bean Basque cheesecake with Luxardo cherries, caramel and candied pistachios is Moore’s riff on the trend, and the brown butter and sweet potato churros with cinnamon yogurt dipping sauce are easy to share and utterly satisfying.
Vanilla bean Basque cheesecake with Luxardo cherries, caramel and candied pistachios.
Jacklyn Meyer
Glad to have landed back in St. Louis, Moore notes that 10 years away has given her a chance to see the city from a different perspective. “I’m seeing a much different side of St. Louis now,” she explains. “When I left, Gerard [Craft] and Kevin Nashan were, like, the cool kids, and they still are, but this was a decade ago. Niche Food Group was just opening up. We were young. And so now, everybody’s a little more mature, and it’s really exciting and interesting to see where people have landed in their careers. Everyone has really grown into their roles, and it’s been great to connect with people again and see what they’re doing on a more personal level.”
Brown butter and sweet potato churros with cinnamon yogurt dipping sauce.
Jacklyn Meyer
Most satisfying for Moore is the knowledge that heading up a hotel restaurant comes with slightly different responsibilities than a standalone concept. “Kitchens are awesome. Yes, I love food, but it’s really the hospitality that attracts me to this business,” she notes. “[At Idol Wolf], we’re able to offer a safe place [for] people to come to after resting all day, or [for] people who want to try a new restaurant. [Being in a hotel] … requires a little bit of a balancing act, and what I’ve learned is that St. Louis has really supported the restaurant and identified it as more than a hotel restaurant. And I think that’s super unique and very cool. So I want to keep that going.”
For more information and updates about Moore’s menu at Idol Wolf, follow the restaurant on Instagram.
Idol Wolf at 21c Museum Hotel St. Louis, 1528 Locust St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri, idolwolfstl.com
Dining and Cooking