The dramatic bar
Grand Brasserie
There are thousands of restaurants in New York City. but none like the recent debut of this emporium in Grand Central Station.
It is called, with good reason, the Grand Brasserie. It is just a few steps off the 42d Street entrance. And once you walk in, you not only have the feeling of being in a comfy, beautiful establishment, but also in, of all places, a train station.
This happens because the ceilings are, oh, 40 feet high. That gives you the sense that you are in the famed terminal. You see a massive clock, architectural pillars. But then there is the array of tables–separated by a civilized distance. Lots of space to eat and not being forced to listen to the gossip at the next table.
This is the 300-seat main room. Right next to it is the more intimate 100-seat Green Room, with its leather banquettes, evocative photos adorning the walls, a perfect venue for parties and meetings.
And yet, you do not feel the hustle and bustle of commuters. This restaurant is its own world. You don’t hear announcements of train delays. No one is rushing with an attache case toward the 5:10 to Hartford. Instead, a friendly staff waits while you look at the menu.
Relaxation while dining seems like an oxymoron for a restaurant planted not only in the heart of New York City, but in one of the world’s busiest terminals. Yet, that’s what you can do from, believe it or not, 5:30 in the morning until 3 A.M. In fact the “brunch” menu begins at that early hour and continues until early afternoon. Of course, there is also a breakfast, lunch and dinner menue.
Just a sampling
Grand Brasserie
While you’re dining, take a look around the place. The bar is, well, incredible. It seems to rise almost to the ceiling, hundreds of colorful bottles side by side, shelf upon shelf, stretching for what seems the length of a football field. All glowing in front of a mirror. And above them, huge windows looking out into the lights of the station. You can imagine that world out there, while you’re dining in a different environment.
Well, what about the food? Remember, it is called a brasserie. You start off with the interesting bread. To me, it tasted like a cross between a baguette and a tasty slice of sourdough. Crunchy and tasty.
Which menu interests you? There is a “night brunch” menu, believe it or night. There is a price-fixed menu for lunch and dinner. It’s just fun meandering through all those dishes that evoke a true French brasserie, with a New York edge.
For hors d’oeuvres there is vichysoisse or escargots, just to name two of a bunch. There is a lobster omelette or a quiche of the day–and, of course, boeuf bourgignon. I wanted to know how they made some comfort food, so I ordered a cheeseburger Americain–and it was just about the best burger I’ve ever eaten. The double beef patty was dripping with a very French sauce.
Just for fun I took a look at the wine menu. I passed up the $4,500 grand cru. There were wines from every major region of France, as well as California, Oregon and New York State. I think the $10 glass of red is just fine.
You can learn more and see the extensive menus at grandbrasserie.com. And don’t worry: You don’t need to speak a word of French to enjoy this classic cuisine.
Dining and Cooking