Brane-Cantenac is my favorite Margaux producer. Leaving aside the eponymous Chateau Margaux as the gold-standard of the appellation, Brane was the Margaux that helped me understand the broad spectrum of traits offered within this Medoc commune. The quality output from this property, coupled with pricing consistently below other top non-Margaux wines from the region, makes Brane a benchmark chateau for me.
Brane recently marked its 100th year of ownership by the Lurton family. Jane Anson penned a fantastic piece about the event and the chateau’s history, which had me reminiscing about my experiences with the chateau.
There are many differentiators between Brane-Cantenac and its neighbors, but its vineyards are where the starkest contrast is found. Like much of the appellation, Brane’s soils are awash in Garronaise gravel with pockets of sand. Beneath the surface at Brane, however, is a fractional composition of clay, allowing vines to retain extra moisture during dry periods. This enables Brane to cultivate, along with sublime Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot ubiquitous in the region, small plots of Petit Verdot and Carménère. These scarcely planted varieties never make up a sizeable portion of a Brane blend (around 1% in a good vintage), but are present enough to imbue upon the wines added dimensions not often found in Margaux.
I most recently visited Brane in April of 2024, and in the salon leaving our tasting, they were sampling out of large-formats their 1986 vintage. This was around the time Emile Peynaud stopped consulting, and a few years before the property passed to current owner/winemaker Henri, so stylistically different than current wines, but wow—even back then, the gravity of this estate was undeniable. Loaded with primary and tertiary notes; red-to-black bramble fruits ranging from ripe to cooked, leather, pencil shavings, dried thyme, and earth; svelte texture, structure driven by acid, with soft tannins allowing the wine to taper harmoniously. Lots of life left, very cool experience.
Keeping the name “Chateau Margaux” out your mouth, which Margaux property is your favorite?
by ItsWine101
22 Comments
This would also be my favorite. First time having it was even considered a “off” vintage. The 2012 was incredible. Still buying yearly as I think they always make a great bottle regardless of the vintage.
Palmer…?
Palmer.
Brane is great. Great history and the wine makers are doing intersting things in light of climate change, including planting things like Malbec. They also have a mix of soil types which gives them additoinal ability to manage terroir. That all being said, while Brane is great, Palmer cannot be ignored if we’re talking Margaux favourites.
Palmer, then Rauzan-Segla
I mean, Palmer. But if we’re going for a #3 then for me it’s Rauzan-Segla. But Brane is elite as well.
I think the most obvious one is Chateau Palmer, but I have really enjoyed some bottles of Chateau Giscours and Chateau d’Issan. I really haven’t had too many bottles of Kirwan, but I’ve heard decent things about them.
Rauzan Segla is another one that has recently started turning around and aiming to get back into that 2nd Growth territory, but the wines of that caliber are all a little too young to really know how well they will do after extended cellaring. For the most part, though, a fairly large amount of the wines that aren’t Chateau Margaux are usually pretty affordable and tasty.
I do agree on Brane-Cantenac though. Their Grand Vin is great, but even their second and third labels are solid wines.
The third label, “Margaux de Brane” is my go-to “cheap” Margaux.
Palmeira.
As others have already pointed out. The question should be what is next in line behind Margaux and Palmer.
I prefer Segla to Palmer. 😳
Siran is a budget banger!
I really like d’issan. I have had some at over 20 years and they hold up really well. Palmer also is superb – Have had some at 30 plus going strong. Siran I have cases of over a couple of vintages and hoping for good stuff but too young yet.
Chateau Margaux is phenomenal but I don’t think most of the second growths are actually ahead of most of the third growths at all these days, lots of quality and in some vintages the thirds completely shine.
I do like cantenac brown, again enjoyed some good aged ones from early and mid 2000s recently.
Rauzan Segla probably my fave of the ‘accessible’ ones to me; but Clos du Jaugueyron is my favourite smaller Margaux producer.
2000 Lascombes was one of my favorite wine experiences ever
Around the holidays, I cracked open a bottle of 2021 Rauzan-Ségla (I know…too young…shame on me) but it was freakin delicious. Then I picked up 2 bottles of the 2005 vintage (which has been predictably solid on the left bank) and it was swill. Could have been the provenance, could have pulled the shortest straw with both bottles turning south prematurely, who knows. But I will try them again in another vintage (2009-2010) just to see.
Palmer is the obvious pick. I think they would win blind against Ch Margaux fairly often too.
Du tertre and Cantenac Brown are my votes for personal taste and experience.
I think Lascombes had a bad reputation for a while, but I think its worth trying them again. There is good value there now. (You’re going to want some age)
Rauzan-Segla, Brane-Cantenac, durfort-Vivens, Korean, D’Issan all need mentions.
Durfort-Vivens probably deserves a shout as no. 3-4 ish in Margaux with recent vintages being miles better than back in the days
Pavillon rouge?
Can’t believe nobody’s said D’Issan!
Anybody got an opinion on Lascombes ?
has anyone tried Clos du Jaugyeron or Las Gravieres? Heard both are super small producers making old school Margaux, but they are tough to find for me, aside from a couple importers in NYC?
Just a fun side-note question, where do you think Philip Togni would be placed? I’ve heard his style is similar to Margaux. I’ve got a few 2019s, but don’t plan on opening them for another 20 years at least based on what I hear!