Even the best of us are utterly stumped in the kitchen from time to time. But never fear: We’re bringing you a batch of hot tips on how to solve some very common culinary problems, from freezer burnt fish to soupy lasagna and beyond.
Our experts are Mark and Kate Bittman, of the Bittman Project. You probably know Mark — he’s a prominent food writer and journalist whose New York Times column “The Minimalist” ran for more than 13 years. His daughter, Kate, is the editorial director of the Bittman Project site, so she has serious chops, too. Together, they’ve seen it all, from simple weeknight dinners to ambitious holiday spreads, and now they’re tackling questions from readers of Good Taste with practical advice, clever tricks, and a side of humor. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting out, Mark and Kate are here to make your time in the kitchen a little easier — and a lot more fun.
Kitchen queries aside, we’re also hyped that the Bittman Project is cooking up a handy discount for Katie Couric Media readers. You can use code KCM1440 to receive an exclusive 40% off your first year of their fantastic content — and we’ll share even more details below.
I’m a senior citizen living alone, and my knives are pitiful. How can I replace them simply, economically, and practically? — Emily
Kate Bittman: Knives don’t need to be expensive to be great. Granted, your idea of expensive might be different than mine, but let’s assume we’re talking under $100 per knife. (Remember, if you use them wisely and keep them sharp, knives can last forever, or close to it.) Everyone on our team who has tried them loves Made In’s knives, and you can get a set of four — chef, bread, paring, and nakiri (blunt nose) — for $349, which is a really good deal.
We haven’t personally tested all of these, but I have the paring knives. They’ve lasted forever and I use them all the time, so I’d feel good giving the set ($129!) a shot. Same goes for this 5-piece Victorinox bundle.
And maybe (probably?) more important than the brand of knives you have — always keep your knives sharp. You’ll be at much less risk of cooking injuries, your work will go faster, and the difference is wildly noticeable. We like the Brod & Taylor sharpener — it’s small and does a great, quick job of it.
Mark and Kate Bittman through the years (courtesy of the Bittman Project)
What can be done with freezer burnt food? — Kathleen
Mark Bittman: Freezer burn indicates moisture loss, not spoilage. Though once frost forms, the food can taste bland or develop a dry texture. What I do first is remove the food from its container or packaging and brush off any ice crystals. Then rinse the frozen meat, chicken, fish, fruit, or vegetables in a colander under cold running water and assess by smelling it. (If it’s bread or another baked food, then I just dust it off without rinsing.)
If it’s been in the freezer for months and months, it might smell stale — or like the freezer — in which case you probably want to toss it. But if it’s meat that can be trimmed or vegetables, grains, or legumes that can be revived in water, then it’ll probably be good. The trick is to cook it in a way that retains moisture: reheating in sauce, steaming on the stove or microwave, or covered or wrapped and warmed slowly in the oven.
I use olive oil for cooking, but what should I use for baking? I’ve heard that canola and vegetable oil are good choices, but I’ve also heard extremely negative things about both. — Mindy
Mark Bittman: For this answer, I’m going to assume you’re avoiding butter and animal fats. And then I’m going to suggest that instead of choosing oil based on whether you’re cooking or baking, you consider making the decision based on the flavor of the oil. For example, sometimes the less pronounced flavor of a neutral-tasting oil (like grapeseed or sunflower) is desired in stir-fries or other dishes with prominent ingredients or seasonings like ginger, soy sauce, and curry blends. And there are some excellent traditional and modern baking recipes that call for olive oil.
Oils like canola, those labeled “vegetable oil” (which are usually extracted from soybeans but not always), and others made from seeds are currently being debated. (For more information on that, we just unpacked the question of seed oils on the Bittman Project.)
Simply replacing oil for butter in baking recipes is tricky and rarely delivers the exact same results. We’ve found that neutral-tasting versatile oils, like grapeseed and sunflower, can perform quite well in baking, especially in recipes that call for liquid oil. If you’re replacing butter, we generally prefer coconut oil, which is solid at room temperature. Two considerations: Coconut oil is a plant-based saturated fat (as opposed to mono- and poly-unsaturated fats, like olive and other vegetable oils); and the more refined kinds have a more neutral, less coconutty flavor. I’ve also found that avocado oil works well for baking, but it can be pricey.
Why is my lasagna always so soupy? — Mary
Mark Bittman: No one wants that! A yes response to any of the following troubleshooting questions will be your answer:
Are you accidentally using traditional lasagna noodles in a recipe that calls for no-bake lasagna noodles?
Is your usual tomato or bechamel sauce on the thin side? (If so, you should probably let some of the liquid simmer away to thicken it before using in lasagna.)
Do you like to fudge the recipe a bit by adding more sauce and/or cheese or other fillings — or are you cutting back on the pasta?
Are you boiling traditional lasagna noodles until they’re fully tender? (The noodles must be undercooked and able to absorb liquid in the oven to hold the casserole together. Similarly, cutting the baking time so the noodles are still al dente won’t allow them to properly absorb excess liquid.)
Do you include fresh, uncooked vegetables in your lasagna? (Fresh spinach, mushrooms, and tomatoes will all leech lots of water as they bake; best to roast, grill, steam, or sauté them before assembly.)
Are you letting the lasagna rest at least 10 minutes before cutting it? (Not all recipes note this serving tip, but it’s important to give the whole thing time to set and reabsorb extra liquid. If you’re worried about it being piping hot, you can tent the top with foil or even let the pan rest in the oven after you turn it off for a few minutes.)
I was given a container of soybean paste by a Korean neighbor. How do I use it? — Alice
Mark Bittman: Korean fermented soybean paste (doenjang) is almost exactly like miso made from soybeans (but not quite like those made from barley or other grains or beans). It can be used in the same or similar ways. There are lots of traditional recipes that use it, too, so maybe this is a good excuse to try a basic Korean cookbook. Or better still, ask your neighbor to teach you to cook their favorite recipe. In exchange, you could share one of your favorites. Could lead to some memorable afternoons and excellent meals.
Is it true that sourdough bread has less gluten in it than wheat bread? — Gail
Mark Bittman: The answer to this question is critical to people with the gluten intolerance associated with celiac disease and those with more common gluten sensitivity, so I’m going to tread carefully in not-too-scientific language.
There is evidence in recent research here and elsewhere that fermentation transforms gluten by breaking it down in the slow processes of making sourdough bread. (And by extension, that fermentation can improve the performance of naturally gluten-free cereal grains.) But sourdough breads and other baked foods made with wheat flour still contain gluten.
One not particularly appetizing way to understand why gluten may be reduced but not eliminated in sourdough bread is to look at fermentation as pre-digestion. As the bacteria and yeasts that bring life and leavening to fermented “sourdough” starters metabolize wheat proteins and carbohydrates — and fat in whole grain flour that retains the germ — the process breaks down and changes them in ways similar to what happens in the human body. Sourdoughs give your digestive system a bit of a head start. (We explore this and other benefits of fermenting whole grain flours in Bittman Bread.)
So, while anecdotal evidence may indicate people with gluten sensitivity can safely consume some sourdough foods (as with everything, the exact production process will vary the impact on the finished bread), no one with gluten intolerance or celiac disease should consider sourdough wheat baked goods to be “gluten-free.” And as always, if you have diet and health concerns, always consult your doctor first.
And now, about that exciting discount…
Food should be a source of joy, not stress. That’s the spirit behind The Bittman Project, a thoughtful and inspiring space from celebrated food writer Mark Bittman and his daughter Kate. Together, they bring decades of experience, a passion for real food, and a modern, no-fuss approach to helping you feel confident and creative in the kitchen.
Membership includes new recipes every Monday, expert kitchen tips, Q&As, curated product recommendations, exclusive giveaways, and a vibrant member community. Whether you’re cooking for one or a table of ten, you’ll find ideas that nourish and inspire.
Start your 7-day free trial today and become an annual member. Katie’s subscribers can use the code KCM1440 to receive an exclusive 40% off your first year.
Dining and Cooking