My wife, Hope, has this habit of having a birthday almost every year. This time around, she was on a mission: secure a table at MeeshMeesh, the now James Beard award-winning Mediterranean hotspot in NULU. The name means “apricot” in Arabic and Hebrew, which felt like a good omen for the sweet-and-savory feast we were hoping for. As the planets aligned, she snagged two seats at the bar for her birthday (which, for the record, was her 25th), and we landed on the waitlist for a table.
We never got that table, and it turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Perched at the bar, we had front-row seats to a masterclass in mixology and were able to pick the brains of some of the best bartenders in town about food, spirits, and life in general.
The legendary stories we’d heard about MeeshMeesh? All true. The food is a dazzling tour of Mediterranean cuisine. The hospitality is top-notch, with a staff so charming and attentive to my gluten-free needs that I felt like a culinary king. And the place was packed to the gills, but with a vibe so cool and conversation-friendly that you could still debate important topics, like which glass of wine to order first.
Hope’s salmon and chickpeas. Credit: Joe DeSensi
The restaurant itself has a sleek, NYC feel, with dark wood, stucco walls, and exposed brick creating an intimate setting for the 40-or-so diners in the main room and the lucky dozen or so at the bar.
Upon arrival, our first order of business was locking down the adult beverage game plan. Feeling a bit Spanish, we both started with a glass of Garnatxa Blanca. It was crisp, citrusy, and refreshing—exactly what a hot day calls for. As our first glasses mysteriously “evaporated,” the traditional MeeshMeesh appetizer sampler appeared. This was a gift in itself: a beautiful plate loaded with pickled olives, hummus, Amy’s peppers, bites of watermelon, fresh baba ghanoush, marinated beans, cucumber salad, and a Bulgarian feta mixed with mint.
My gluten-free status earned me a cup of crudités instead of the usual pita, which was perfect for dipping. The most mind-blowing combination? A piece of juicy watermelon with the salty feta, chased by a sip of that zesty white wine.
White wine from Meeshmeesh. Credit: Joe DeSensi
When it came time for the main event, Hope and I chose different paths. She, ever on brand, went for the Moroccan-style Veloso salmon with stewed tomatoes, lemon, and crispy chickpeas. She ate it with the demure of a killer whale tossing a seal around before gobbling it down.
I, ever the culinary journeyman, decided to build my own adventure from the small plates and smears. I opted for the crispy cauliflower with sunflower seeds and currants, the vibrant heirloom tomatoes, and the ember beet salad with mint, dates, and pinenuts. Each dish was a star on its own, but mixing and matching them with the remnants of the app sampler led to some very thorough and interesting dinner discussions (an opinion held by at least 50% of our twosome).
Meeshmeesh Beet Salad. Credit: Joe DeSensi
For the gourmands who enjoy their meals with a little more carnage satisfaction, MeeshMeesh has you covered. The menu features chicken, lamb, and steak, plus several options for people who like sea creatures cooked to perfection.
After one of us (it’s impossible to figure out who at this point) complained to Hope about being gloriously overfed, we decided on a glass of Pares Balta Cava—a bubbly Spanish sparkler—in lieu of dessert. It was the perfect, light finish to an incredible meal.
MeeshMeesh is truly a unique Louisville experience, serving dishes with ingredients you won’t find just anywhere. Chef and owner Noam Bilitzer (a 2025 James Beard finalist and former Food Network Chopped Champion) has brilliantly updated Levantine recipes that are centuries old, giving them a modern spin with locally sourced ingredients. It’s a place where ancient flavors feel brand new, and a birthday dinner at the bar feels like the best seat in the house.
Joe and Hope at Meeshmeesh.
This article appears in Sep 1-30, 2025.
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Dining and Cooking