For reasons I can’t fathom, I often seek familiar Italian-style dishes — especially the tomato sauce kind — in early autumn. Just for the sake of congruence, I look to Italian wines for accompaniment:
Terre del Casone Toscana Rosso Governo all’uso Toscano 2023 (Tuscany, Italy). This 80/10/10 blend of sangiovese, cab sauv and cilegiolo is made by the governo method, which is the use of partially dried grapes in a second fermentation. Here it results results in a very dark crimson color and softer texture, as well as deeper fruitiness of flavor (from cherries to berries). This version is full medium in body, with no harsh tannins and satisfying length. Beef/pork braciole with tomato/red wine sauce would be appropriate, but braised flank steak would do as well. (Trader Joe’s, $7.99)
Colle Corviano Sangiovese Terre di Chieti 2021 (Abruzzo, Italy). This purplish sangiovese successfully makes the argument for looking beyond Tuscany for displays of the variety’s tendency for just plain deliciousness (and at an attractive price). Medium-full in body, it possesses an innate tendency for sweetness of a blackberry-black cherry sort, which lasts throughout, even into the very dry finish. An excellent time for beef cannelloni with white sauce. (Williamsburg Pottery, $9.98)
Masseria Supreno Primitivo Salento 2024 (Puglia, Italy). Not for the faint of palate, this blackish violet-red wine is both weighty and heady. Yet, it is balanced in that vein, and neither tannin nor acidity disrupt hedonistic enjoyment of it. To the extent that it strikes a familiar chord, it is likely because primitivo is otherwise known to us as zinfandel. Not surprisingly, dark berries dominate flavor. A good opportunity for spinach and ricotta manicotti/shells and tomato-meat sauce. (P.S. It has a nice resonance with a sprinkle of red pepper flakes.) (Food Lion, $11)
Villa Serafin Pinot Grigio Terre degli Osci 2024 (Molise, Italy). Bright-yellow color raises hopes for a solid presentation of pinot grigio, and the rest does not disappoint. Lightish-medium in body, Serafin taps into the potential for two often neglected aspects of PG’s nature: first, for initial creaminess of texture; second, for bringing a finely acidic backbone to the fore as it proceeds. A peachy tendency in flavor is nicely backed by lightly floral tones. Flounder/tilapia francese over angel hair pasta is a satisfying accompaniment. (Williamsburg Pottery, $10.98)
Marco Pontarelli Barbera 2022 (Piemonte, Italy). Crimson red color is a fitting lead-in to full-medium body, dark fruit flavors up front, and then a bit of smokiness. In overall feel, there is a distinctly earthy aspect (think of mushroom hunting), which decisively impacts the finish. Keep it in mind for bolognese sauce over tagliatelle/ pappardelle. (World Market, $13.99 member price — and membership is free — reg. price $17.99)
Stemmari Nero d’Avola 2022 (Sicily, Italy). Purplish cherry-red color is a cheery lead-in to medium body and a fine progression to gentle acidity in the finish. In line with that, there is a certain complexity to its flavor: blueberries blend nicely with an intriguing, low-key blend of rosemary, thyme, mint and white pepper. Enjoy it now, and consider it for Italian-inspired stuffed eggplant with béchamel. (Food Lion, $14)
Miles Lambert is a Williamsburg resident.
Dining and Cooking